Not sure what went wrong.

[zagscrawler]

Well i have an early truck that had the bad spools in it and contacted losi and got new ones no problem. I noticed the truck still had some kind of resistance when climbing. I used the same lube on the old set of spools that the new ones are coated in. Well i first thought the problem was in the trans so i broke it down and everything was in great shape, I would not of thought to go back into the diffs considering the new correctly cut spools and new worm drives as well. After finding nothing in the trans i ran it again and listened real close to the rig and heard some noise in the diffs, rear mostly. I broke open the rear diff just now and about craped my self, the new gears are covered in metal. Both drive and spool are severly worn and i have only ran 3 packs through the new set. My old set had some where around 30 + packs and were cut wrong and look similar. Like i said i am using the same grease and cant figure out what might of happened in there.. Im running 3s goat 21.5 with 12 tooth pinion. Not much wheel speed to be honest. If some one has any suggestions on what might of when wrong please fill me in. Thanks in advance

Nathan

[EeePee]

Got shims?

[zagscrawler]

i used the same shims from my old set. i believe there is three on each end of the drive gear and two on each end of the spool.

[Joe Bonkers]

Did you tighten the axle case to tight? Make sure you can spin spool after assembly. Just a thought.....

[zagscrawler]

Nah my axles spun free when i finished the rebuild. To be honest i was surprised on how much slop there was at the worm drive side of it. Maybe that was my problem. Should there be any play (push-pull) at the pinion input shaft?

[weasel_ugs]

Originally Posted by zagscrawler

i used the same shims from my old set. i believe there is three on each end of the drive gear and two on each end of the spool.

Arent other threads saying to only use 1 shim on each side of the spool? Don

[vigilant]

yeah one shim per side or the gears will bind and wear fast

Originally Posted by weasel_ugs

Arent other threads saying to only use 1 shim on each side of the spool? Don

[axelram]

Originally Posted by zagscrawler

Nah my axles spun free when i finished the rebuild. To be honest i was surprised on how much slop there was at the worm drive side of it. Maybe that was my problem. Should there be any play (push-pull) at the pinion input shaft?

there should not be any push-pull play for a good worm spool pinion combo. The play wil come slowly as you get worn-out gear. Do you have the shims, if i remember 3 shims on both ends of worm pinion? If you have the shims, most likely an axle housing have stripped threads. Do not use any kind of thread locker in the mounting bolts. I hope this help you find the root cause.

[zagscrawler]

ill check the other threads on spool shiming, but i do have 3 shims per side of the worm pinion and there is still slop in the case. Im going to take all the new and old stuff to my shop and measure some stuff to see if the new pinion is a tad shorter (bearing land to bearing land) and maybe it does require more shims to keep it located in the casing. Oh and i have checked my case and all the seems are nice and tight and i have no stripped bolts. Just to clarify the slop i am refering to is the movement in and out of the case that the pinion does, not the gear lash. Thanks for all the feed back and im sure ill find a simple solution soon enouph.

[SuperRoo]

I thought the revised shims were suppose to be a total of 0.04mm or 2 shims if they are the 0.02mm shims.

SEE JPH's first post in the tips section for more info or search for Rich's original post on the subject.

[Rich Trujillo]

There should be very little, if any play from front to rear on the worm pinion. As you said you have done, it is 3 on each end. As for the worm spool, in the majority of cases, 1 .2mm shim on each side should be good. That being said there can be some slight variances when the housings are molded and some actually feel better with 2 .2mm shims on each side. The big thing to check is that the worm spool is not binding from side to side when installed in the case. As for checking the screw holes, make sure that the 2 upper 2-56 cap head screws are secure. If these are not snug, the top of the case can separate a little under loads. Just make sure all 6 screws bottom out when you tighten them up.
Finally, what grease are you using? Our early models used a clear grease and unfortunately our vendor did not apply as much as I thought should be in there. Since then we have switched to our "Sticky" "Great Grease LOSA99207. You can use this grease in liberal amounts or you can even find good marine grease at your local auto parts store. Pack the worms with lots of grease. I should also add that there are a few vendors here that offer grease that seems to work pretty well too.

Lastly, if you have more than 3mm of play from front to back, make sure you have both bearings in the housings.

[EeePee]

Remembering, I had a lot of play for and aft in my pinion, and it ended up a toasted bearing. So check the bearings while you're checking things.

[silentcircus]

I was thinking it might be a bad bearing too. I haven't had one fail in my LCC yet but I did lose one in one of my 8Ts once. Ate things up pretty badly.

[EeePee]

When I said toasted, I meant toasted!

[silentcircus]

That one looks like it exploded. The 8Ts wasn't quite that bad!

[zagscrawler]

well guys i have measured and checked the case for striped bolts and got my shims in order. Im really starting to think it was just the lube im using. After some hard thought and considering all the cercumstances here i think it can be the only answer. Im almost ashamed to admit but the lube i am using is a spray type (the nozzle fits in my grease port ). It is Kimball Midwest Delayed Viscosity Penetrating Grease. It starts out like wd40 and after about 30 secs it forms into a non-sling grease. I think when i greased this set of gears i applied the grease and then spun up the axles right after, i dont think the grease had time to set up and coat anything very well. Im going to chock this one up to live and learn and get some specific grease and inject it via-serenge or just pop the cases when i grease it. I must thank all you guys for all the help and hope maybe someone else might read this and not make my same mistakes.

P.S. After i reasembled the diff and checked the play at the input i found i was just where i should be. i must of imagined the whole LOTS OF PLAY THING. Again thanks to all who posted and till next time