20 degree hubs

[Jenkins88]

So i finally got the 20 degree hubs. originally I just had the axle clocked alone. So I bolted everything up and now the servo arm hits the steering linkage. So I took off all the spacers I had on the lower links to clock out and still hits, so I grinded a bit on the servo arm and the steering linkage it still barely hits. The servo arm is a dynamite arm. Has anyone else ran into this. Im thinking maybe the servo arm is too long but if I dont mount in the lowest hole I dont get full throw. So guys I ask y'all What gives?

[thomass14]

I had to shave the rod end down a bit with the stock steering arms to clear. I also had the lowered servo mount. Finally went with the rcbros ota steering and had to shave that some 4 clearance also , but loving the setup know. Shave what you can and see if it will clear hope that helps

[killswitch]

The lunsford Ti linkage gave me enough room to run a racers edge clamping style. It rubbed with the LCC aluminum steering linkages though... I may be using a shim behind the ball on the steering link too, but it's been a while since I had that stuff apart. I'll grab a pic of my current set up in a few.

EDIT: here's a couple of pics of my setup. I am using the thin spacer that traxxas supplies with this to space the revo rod end out far enough that it clears my lunsford link. Check EeePee's thread out... pretty sure he's still using the stock linkage setup with the 20* Cs.

[Jenkins88]

Alright then, Im not alone lol. yeah i shaved it down a bit and it just barely clears. I could go up one hole on my arm and the then cut the extra hole off but I dont think Ill get the throw i want. I want the tire to hit the bottom link. Im waiting on RCBro to come out with the matching steering linkage with the hi-knuckles before I buy an after market link. Ive got the stock servo plate too so man with it lowered it would really hit!

[EeePee]

Yeah, the stock stuff clears.

Shave some of the axle case in the center to get full/more throw. Keep shaving until the knuckle arm hits the castor block.

[Jenkins88]

thats looks like the losi arm just a tad shorter than mine, sweet. do you got a pick showing how shaving the axle case improves throw?

[EeePee]

You owe me three beers.

[killswitch]

Originally Posted by EeePee

You owe me three beers.

HAHAHA is that what it cost you to borrow a camera?

[EeePee]

That's the going rate for my effort these days.

[steeltoe]

Originally Posted by EeePee

Yeah, the stock stuff clears.

Shave some of the axle case in the center to get full/more throw. Keep shaving until the knuckle arm hits the castor block.

+1 on that. thats all i had to do on mine too to get it to clear. Im using stock servo mount also and LCC aluminum link. had to lengthen steering arm since i had shortened it to work with the high steer knuckles when i had them on. using one of the plastic horns that came with HiTec servo thats been shaved down to clear...just barely clear. Im expecting it to break but i have an aluminum horn to use when it does.

[Jenkins88]

hahaha If I ever meet you in person we'll down a case

[Mike Cooper]

Where can I get the 20* hubs?

[skywker51]

Originally Posted by Mike Cooper

Where can I get the 20* hubs?

Horizon Hobby 20 sec Google search

[steeltoe]

or Losi & Associated Parts House has them too, $5 cheaper and quick shipping especially if your in CA.

[Mike Cooper]

Ok thanks. Do these help a lot when moving down hill or approaching an obsticle?

[Jenkins88]

Originally Posted by Mike Cooper

Ok thanks. Do these help a lot when moving down hill or approaching an obsticle?

there made so when you turn it slants the wheel back so you can turn sharper(like on truggy/buggy) you can gain more contact to the rocks as well on turns