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Old 05-19-2008, 07:27 PM   #1
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Default Aluminum or pastic hexes?

I tried a search and could not find what I was looking for. Do most of you guys run aluminum or plastic hexes in aluminum wheels? Is it better to sacrifice a cheap plastic hex to save an expensive aluminum wheel? Or is it really a non issue?
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Old 05-19-2008, 07:38 PM   #2
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Never seen a alum hex spin in a alum wheel, but I could see it being possible with the plastic hex or a alum hex in a plastic wheel.

Go for alum and ya wont have to worry about em.
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Old 05-19-2008, 07:48 PM   #3
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x2..............................
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Old 05-19-2008, 08:07 PM   #4
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Mayhem:

Glad to see you piping in on this one. I have a new set of your 2.2 (WK spacing) wheels en route to me (just cleared Canadian Customs) and I was wondering whether to run Al hexes or plastic.

I was wondering if Al hexes in Al wheels would "stick" together after being clamped tightly making the hexes sometimes hard to remove.
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Old 05-19-2008, 08:13 PM   #5
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I can see doing it both ways.... but its kinda like 1:1 wheeling with having the "fuse" type hubs so they break before anything else does.

I am sure each has its advantages?
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Old 05-19-2008, 08:16 PM   #6
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I would definitely run alum. hexes.
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Old 05-19-2008, 08:52 PM   #7
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I ran plastic hex's for awhile. PITA to get out of the wheel cause they deform inside the wheel. Usually when you have a plastic hex on the pin slot gives out. Aluminum hex's dont have any of these problems
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Old 05-19-2008, 09:04 PM   #8
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I run alum. hexes with no problem, The only time I have seen a problem with hexes is when the hex being used does not fit in the hex in the wheel and they get forced in and can not be removed. The hex should slip in without being forced.



Quote:
Originally Posted by SeanD View Post
Mayhem:

Glad to see you piping in on this one. I have a new set of your 2.2 (WK spacing) wheels en route to me (just cleared Canadian Customs) and I was wondering whether to run Al hexes or plastic.

I was wondering if Al hexes in Al wheels would "stick" together after being clamped tightly making the hexes sometimes hard to remove.
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Old 05-19-2008, 09:14 PM   #9
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Thanks guys I just didn't want to wipe out my new Mayhem's......By the way they are bad ass wheels!
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Old 05-19-2008, 09:54 PM   #10
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thank you sir.


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Originally Posted by hellbentrodder View Post
Thanks guys I just didn't want to wipe out my new Mayhem's......By the way they are bad ass wheels!
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Old 05-19-2008, 10:08 PM   #11
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what aluminum hex do you use with mayhems on an axial?
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Old 05-19-2008, 10:11 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ejbpnoy View Post
what aluminum hex do you use with mayhems on an axial?

I machined the "nub" off the stock Axial aluminum ones.
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Old 05-20-2008, 07:03 AM   #13
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I use aluminum hexes on all of my rigs.... All of my beadlocks are drilled out for the Axial hexes as well, some came that way while the others I drilled out. I run the Axial hexes on all of my 2.2 rigs, including my comp TLT with CVD's. I machined one set of the Axial hexes to fit over the CVD's, so I could pull my tires off after a comp without dropping wheel pins.

Before I switched to Axial hexes, I would have the aluminum hexes wedge them selves into the back of the beadlock. But since changing all my rigs over to the axial hexes, I have not had any problems removing the wheels. But I did try to remove a set of Mayhems off someones rig recently, and the hex was very tight. So Mayhem, you might want to loosen those up a few thousands, just to make them easier to work with If you do have wheels that are a tight fit, I would suggest taking a hand file to your hexes, and knocking a little off until things fit better.
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Old 05-22-2008, 10:23 AM   #14
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who is making a alum. hex that you dont have cut off the nob off or drill out your high dollar rims?????????????????
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Old 05-22-2008, 10:34 AM   #15
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There are a bunch of aluminum hexes without the extra "nub." Since touring cars use 12mm hexes, they are out there.

The hexes I like the best are the HPI's and the Axial's that have some little ridges in the face that dig into plastic rims.
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Old 05-22-2008, 02:01 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MattH View Post
There are a bunch of aluminum hexes without the extra "nub." Since touring cars use 12mm hexes, they are out there.

The hexes I like the best are the HPI's and the Axial's that have some little ridges in the face that dig into plastic rims.
Where are you finding the aluminum hexes without the 'nub'? I see the GH ones - http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXTZT2&P=7. Are there any others?
The HPI ones have the 'nub' too don't they? Hard to tell from the pic - http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXJYM5&P=7.

Thanks.
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Old 05-22-2008, 02:42 PM   #17
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so do i need to get the no nub ones for my wk and alum. beadlocks? They haven't gotten here yet . but, will the no nub work with anything? kinda like a universal one?
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Old 05-22-2008, 02:57 PM   #18
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If you have Axial's or VF's, then you can run the nubs. Most of the others (Mayhem's, Erickson"s, etc...) no nubs.

Just from my experience,
80.
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Old 05-22-2008, 03:08 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sprint 80 View Post
If you have Axial's or VF's, then you can run the nubs. Most of the others (Mayhem's, Erickson"s, etc...) no nubs.

Just from my experience,
80.
The newer RC4WD ones also don't require drilling out, or removal of the nubs on the hexes.
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Old 05-22-2008, 03:15 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by '04 Rubicon View Post
Where are you finding the aluminum hexes without the 'nub'? I see the GH ones - http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXTZT2&P=7. Are there any others?
The HPI ones have the 'nub' too don't they? Hard to tell from the pic - http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXJYM5&P=7.

Thanks.
The key is to look for touring car hexes. Most of the off-road stuff will have the "nubs."

http://www.google.com/products?sourc...minum+hex&um=1
No idea if those will work, but they might be what you want.

http://www.traxxas.com/products/nitr...ccessories.htm
scroll about halfway down

I'm sure there are even better choices out there, but that's what I found quick
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