Craftsman 12 in. Band Saw for metal cutting??

[rcr3fan29]

CCFBERG- What blade are you using on your saw to cut aluminum? Thanks.

[af_juicy]

Originally Posted by CCFBERG

I use a DELTA 9" Its the shizznit! I cut through aluminum 1 1/8 solid round like butter, nice and strait. And I actualy had to cut some 2x3" solid stock the other day and it did fine as well. Alot has to do with the blade setup. Too tight and it will get destroyed, to loose and again ruined! Also feed speed, when you are cutting metal let the blade do its job! Dont rush it, feed slowly, trying to cram it in there thinking it will cut faster is only creating more heat and damaging the blade! I use my saw just about daily cutting all types of metal.......Ive been on the same blade for about 4mos now. I just cut some solid 1 1/8" round last night to finnish my hubbs and it took less than 30sec to cut through it, very nice smooth cut as well!!!

Just my 2 cents! Oh and all my equipment is DELTA except my mill and lathe and Ive had NO problems!

DELTA SM400 BAND SAW WITH STAND 9"

"DELTA" SHOPMASTER 9" BAND SAW

• 1/3HP, 120V

• 11-3/8" x 11-3/8" table
  
• 33"L x 20"W x 29"H overall dimensions
  
• Table tilts 45 deg. right, 3 deg. left
  
• Toggle switch with removable lock out key
  
• 1/4" x 5/8" miter gauge slot
  
• Rack and pinion upper blade guide adjustment for precise height adjustments under the guide
  
• Built-in dust chute for attaching to a dust collection system
  
• Flexible lamp
  
• Pre-drilled base holes
  
• Miter gauge for straight and angle cutting operations
  
• Replacement band saw blades: (Ace Nos. 2114171, 2072445, 2072478, 2072486)
  
• UL listed
  
• Boxed

This is the same saw I have and it is great. I have used a Ryobi one once and it work OK also the I find that most of the time the error lyes with the opertor.

[wonder squirrel]

Have any of you tried using the craftsmen 12" bandsaw to cut thin steel? I found a blade that fits, but the saws speed seems way too fast.

I've got some thin (think it might be 3/32") that I'd like to make some 3/4" cuts in but have not tried it yet.

Think it might be possible to wire in some kind of switch or something to slow the speed down? Rheostat or something?

[fatbastard]

You could just change the pulley on the motor to slow the speed. I have to get me one of those wide blades. I put a new metal blade on my craftsman 12 inch and at first it was awesome. cutting delrin and aluminum like butter. But I got a little crazy and started cutting other stuff. I also cut some pretty tight radius and I think I damaged the blade, because now it won't cut straight. It does seem a little fast too. I think if I slow it down and get the wider blade it will be perfect. HD did not have an 80" blade and Sears only had 1/4" 15 tooth. If I can find like a 3/8" 18 tooth I will have it wooped.

[Joat]

If your cutting alot of tubing etc, just go to HF and get the 4x6 $170-sometimes on sale for 130?- metal cutting band saw, they work pretty decent, once you put a bimetal blade
You can also look for a grit type blade , I seen um on ebay for 44/78 bandsaws, prob have them for others .
I have Jet 5x6 and makita lxt bandsaws, I gotta get a decent scroll saw.

[FL Knifemaker]

Originally Posted by Joat

If your cutting alot of tubing etc, just go to HF and get the 4x6 $170-sometimes on sale for 130?- metal cutting band saw, they work pretty decent, once you put a bimetal blade
You can also look for a grit type blade , I seen um on ebay for 44/78 bandsaws, prob have them for others .
I have Jet 5x6 and makita lxt bandsaws, I gotta get a decent scroll saw.

I know quite a few other knifemakers that use this saw. They put a seat where the vise is and use the saw in the upright position. Some put a larger table on top of the small one that comes with the saw. They run very slow and have plenty of power to cut anything, even titanium up to about .150 thick. They can also be used as a cutoff saw as they were intended Replacement parts for the guides are easily available. I suggest taking them (or any imported machine tool) apart before use and giving them a good going over along with some quality grease and lube.

[Joat]

Originally Posted by FL Knifemaker

I know quite a few other knifemakers that use this saw. They put a seat where the vise is and use the saw in the upright position. Some put a larger table on top of the small one that comes with the saw. They run very slow and have plenty of power to cut anything, even titanium up to about .150 thick. They can also be used as a cutoff saw as they were intended Replacement parts for the guides are easily available. I suggest taking them (or any imported machine tool) apart before use and giving them a good going over along with some quality grease and lube.

Yeah I sit on mine like that once and awhile, I am converting it to cut wet, so no more sadle riding it .
As for the table they are no even worth mounting, they flex so much that it makes so much noise, I gotta get me some 3/16 or 1/4 alumium plate to make a new table.
My jet is a bit better then the HF 4x6's,I did change the gear oil out after breaking it in, synthetic gear lube , next think is I gotta get one of those link style belts.

[FL Knifemaker]

Originally Posted by Joat

Yeah I sit on mine like that once and awhile, I am converting it to cut wet, so no more sadle riding it .
As for the table they are no even worth mounting, they flex so much that it makes so much noise, I gotta get me some 3/16 or 1/4 alumium plate to make a new table.
My jet is a bit better then the HF 4x6's,I did change the gear oil out after breaking it in, synthetic gear lube , next think is I gotta get one of those link style belts.

I know a guy that welded up a base for his and mounted it to a bench. He also re-tapped and replaced all the bolts and set screws with American hardware. The Chinese screws are rather soft and strip easily. It works great for a $200 + cheap upgrades saw I run a spray mist system on my saws. I can set them to cool the blade but not put out enough liquid to make a mess. The best part is no return plumbing needed!!

[yotachump]

Here are the blade I use. I wouldn't cut steel unless you slowed it down.


http://www.toolcenter.com/089_5_Band_saw_Blades.html


here is some for the older craftsman 12" bandsaw

https://www.toolcenter.com/BLADES_TO_SIZE.html

[Phatmac]

Thanks for the link, my dad has been having a hard time getting blades for his Craftsman, and I never thought about it until now.

[eddy4753]

I have a Crapsman 10" band saw that I have had for years and it's OK but, it uses an odd length blade so you have to buy what Sears sells. Over the years they have made the choices of blades to only one metal cutting and I think it's for cutting nails........:-( My experience w/ Craftsman power tools (and I have had a few) leaves something to be desired. Most accessories, say for a table saw WILL NOT work on a craftsman. Delta makes some nice power tools and they would be my first choice unless I want to spend some big bucks.

[rcjeepbuilder]

I use a scroll saw to cut aluminum,steel and plastic and it works great. It has a speed control knob you can adj speed from 0 to 800 rpms You can add a fence as they dont come with one, I just use a steady hand and get as close to the line as I can. Then I just use a file to get it precise...The other thing is it will make some hella tight curves!!!

[Bmr4life]

Originally Posted by rcjeepbuilder

I use a scroll saw to cut aluminum,steel and plastic and it works great. It has a speed control knob you can adj speed from 0 to 800 rpms You can add a fence as they dont come with one, I just use a steady hand and get as close to the line as I can. Then I just use a file to get it precise...The other thing is it will make some hella tight curves!!!

Bumping this because I'm trying to decide between a scroll saw and band saw for cutting 5mm (3/16") aluminum sheet.

[Joat]

Originally Posted by Bmr4life

Bumping this because I'm trying to decide between a scroll saw and band saw for cutting 5mm (3/16") aluminum sheet.

intricate work? scroll saw including inside cuts, outside cuts and curves bandsaw,but 3/16 is a bit much for a scroll saw you gonna be there forever.
The key to either saw is the right blade, bimetal/cobalt and a vari tooth 14/18 for bandsaw is a must.

[Bmr4life]

Originally Posted by Joat

intricate work? scroll saw including inside cuts, outside cuts and curves bandsaw,but 3/16 is a bit much for a scroll saw you gonna be there forever.
The key to either saw is the right blade, bimetal/cobalt and a vari tooth 14/18 for bandsaw is a must.

Not intricate, but internal. I just started new thread about a tool I bought earlier this week. Just trying to make sure I got the right thing.

[Joat]

Originally Posted by Bmr4life

Not intricate, but internal. I just started new thread about a tool I bought earlier this week. Just trying to make sure I got the right thing.

Hard to say,I think it will be a decent inbetween tool, the only thing I see is I dont see a upper support for the blade ,to keep the blade from pushing backwards? I see bearings for side control?

[CadToChrome]

Originally Posted by yotachump

Anybody use the Craftsman 12 in. Band Saw to cut metal? I can find a blade with a high enough TPI. Is 1450 FPM to fast?
If this band saw is not a good choice which one should I get for about the same price?
Here is the link to the band saw.

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...12%22+band+saw

1450 is WAY too fast for cutting metal, you want to use a jackshaft with pulleys to get the speed down to about 300 fpm and use wax as a blade lube. you can get the block of wax from the local food store.

I used they same type saw for years with it slowed to the right speed and it cut well and the blades lasted.

my .02
Chuck

[neillarson]

Originally Posted by STEEL_CITY_CRAWLER

i have that EXACT same bandsaw. it's not bad, but it seems like i can't get ANYTHING to cut straight on it.

do you have the same issues, p!nk? or is it just operator error?

With bandsaws, they ALL drift some amount and normally to the right. The key to getting a long straight cut is to measure the drift using a 24 inch length of 2X4 with a dead straight line drawn the middle. Cut on the line no matter how much you have to angle the board. Stop half way and measure the angle between the board and a fence or straight reference. Then adjust your fence or a clamped board at that angle and let her rip.

For free hand cuts, go slow. You can also tape some emery paper to a thin slat and use it to feather the back of the blade on both side to remove and edges which will cause a lot of drifting when cutting.

Last but not least, adjust your cool blocks or bearings (or whatever your say has). Start with the rear and when you know the saw blade is tracking even,y on the wheels, bring the rear bearing (Cool Block) into contact with the blade and then back it off a tiny amount. For the side block (Bearings)bring them both into contact with the blade WITHOUT deflecting the blade. Ensure your blade tension is set for the blade you are running then just tap the blade in each direction a small amount and tighten down the bearing (blocks). When you are done the rear should be within about 1/32nd of the blade and the side a little more.

[bob1961]

i was looking at those small 100 dollar bandsaws and thought no way after looking at the guide blocks/bearing on them all ....came cross a porter/cable bandsaw at lowes for bout 365.00 and it looked to be the right choice for a small home bandsaw ...i used a friends ryoiby P.O.S. and it would not cut through 1/6" thick steel with the ridgid 18 tpi metal blade ....after working in an ornamental iron railing place and using a real bandsaw, anything smaller is just junk........bob

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