need help on lathe/mill purchase question

[ratmloud]

I got a few questions,

I am going to build a custom crawler, with as many parts as possible made by my self.
I was wondering about the lathe setup, should i get the 4000 lathe or the 4500 with adj. zero handwheels? is the adjust. zero wheels a big deal?
and then I will add a vert. mill column to be able to mill also.

The lathe it comes in two versions, one version is with 2.5 3 jaw chuck and 1/4 inch drill chuck. the other without. I think the one with these items is better, but they will interfere with switching to the mill setup ?

ace, bender , JIA, etc can you guys help me out here? (maybe give me a list/ suggestions of what I need to get started.


thanks for any help guys

[Ace]

A lathe is sorta usable w/o zero adjust handles... Milling is an extreme chore without zero adjust handles.

Get them, you won't be sorry.

As for the 3-jaw, Unless the 2.5" is about free with the combo, I'd spend your money on the big 3-jaw (3.1" I think). You'll want the bigger one eventually.

The drill chuck for the lathe combo I'm guessing fits the tailstock. So it won't fit the headstock. Doesn't matter cause you'll want both (tailstock and headstock) drill chucks. The headstock becomes the mill head when converted to a mill so you'll absolutely need a drill chuck for the mill.

As far as "interfering with milling" not really an issue... They both pop off in seconds.

For holding mills, you'll need endmill holders (screw on the outer thread of the spindle) and or milling collets. Drill chucks don't hold mills true enough and are considered a no no for holding mills... Drills only.

Don't forget a vice... Hard to mill parts without a vice!

[CustomCrawler]

The zero adjust handwheels help out a lot when milling and turning complicated parts. You don't need to calculate when to stop.

I agree with Ace on the chuck. The 3.1" chuck can hold big objects like wheels that the 2.5" couldn't.

Don't purcase two drill chucks. My lathe came with two arbors for the drill chuck. One is Morse #0 while the other is Morse #1. The morse #0 arbor goes in the tailstock and the morse #1 goes in the headstock. If you buy the lathe by itself, get a 3/8" drill chuck. It will hold bigger drills and more common sized center drills.

For holding end mills, collets are the way to go. I think sherline offers a set in morse #1 taper. You might want to get a 3/8" end mill holder too since they don't make a collet in that size. Typically, 3/8" end mills are the cheapest end mills. You can get one from sherline, but I think a company on ebay sells them for around $10 compared to sherline's $30 price.

A vice, like Ace mentioned, is a neccesity.

[JasonInAugusta]

ratm,

I'm using the 4000. Works well.

The only time I've really wanted to be able to zero a wheel is when using the vertical column.

Otherwise I just keep tabs on things in my head.


You might do well by searching ebay for handwheels with zero adjust.

I've found the rotary table to be a VERY sweet tool. Local guy has one for sale if you're interested. Is a 4" sherline table. Used but nice.

[ratmloud]

JIA - thats the rotary you have right a 4" sherline? I may be interested, do you know how much he's asking? PM me

[ratmloud]

I am thinking of just getting the mill setup with rotary table instead of lathe with mill column.

any disadvantages to not having the lathe if i have a rotary table on the mill?

[BENDER]

Originally Posted by ratmloud

any disadvantages to not having the lathe if i have a rotary table on the mill?

Lathes are faster as far as dealing with round stock. You can do alot with a rotary table and mill that you can with a lathe, it'll just take a little longer and may not be as true.

I would still recomend trying to spring for the lathe too, you won't regret it. Trying to use a rotary table to make something like axle shafts wouldn't be an option, you'd need a lathe to do it.