soldering?? strenght???

[TeamDeweyRacing]

im shure this question has been answered many times again but i couldnt find anything with the search button. i want to build a chassis to build my bruiser axles and tranny around but i dont want to braze it i just would rather not, ive never liked it. So if i soldered it all together would it be strong enough?

[Robb]

No



Brazing would be the minimal amount of strength required. Soldering ain't gonna cut it. What did you not like about brazing that you think would be resolved with soldering? It is basically the same thing, just at different heat levels.

[crawlbe4youwalk]

Brazing is a sinch if you have the right heat and filler metal.

[breitenbach14]

i thought brazing was hard and that it would be expensive but a good stater would be the benzo matic mapp gas torch at home de"pot" for 50$ =] got it and am very pleased but i would rather braze than solder

[Dumptruck]

I also got the Home depot torch, but the $50 one i thought was overkill. I got the basic $12 one that doesnt have a built in sparker. And some Mapp bottles. Its works great, i have been wondering about soldering too. It seems strong, but definitely not as strong as brazing. I recently built a tuber all soldered, its braced well and feels pretty strong. I guess il just have to see if it holds up at the comp this weekend.

Also from home depot, the 1620 degree flux coated brazing rod works pretty well for tubers, and is very cheap.

[CCFBERG]

My entire frame is Silver soldered! Dont let anyone tell you its not strong enough Its plenty strong if done rite. Your heat has to be good and you have to use the proper Silver Solder and if your using brake line that is galvanized you MUST remove the Galvanic coating or it will not bond to the metal properly.

My rig is 15 pounds, 9 out of every 10 rigs out there arent even close to that heavy. So having said that when this thing takes a hit to the frame its taking a hell of a hit, much harder than most of the tubers out there due to thier light weight.

My rig took several hard hits, rollovers down steep rocks flipps and just took a hell of a bashing at the comp this last weekend. Ive inspected it and there are no sighns of anything going wrong. Prior to this comp durring the building of it, it has fallen multipal times onto the concreat floor in my shop, my wife had a brain fart and stood on it kinda lifting herself up with that foot ontop of it, (granit she's only 124lbs) but still, also it fell about 4 feet to the floor when I was doing winch testing. After all this nothing is bent, broke, damaged in any way! Except the paint Im very anal about strait lines, possible cracks, deformation in any thing I am working on or building. (probably because I work on Air Force Jets for a living) I have a very keen eye for that stuff so trust me if it wasnt strong I would know.

I wont deny that brazing and or welding is the best and strongest way but its not the only way!

There is one real pain in the ass thing about soldering a tube frame. When you get to areas where there are multiple tubes ending in one place or that make up one joint its a pain in the ass not to disrupt or melt the last soldering you did at that point. However, once you figure out how to get past that your golden! Its simple!! And solder is easy to clean up in the joint areas, little sand paper and mabe filing and thats it.

If you would like some more help on this just PM me and Id be happy to offer up my ways!

Here is a link to my build so you can see the frame build up and how clean it turned out. Page #3 has the finished frame pics prior to paint,

My Tuber build, Hydraulic Steering, Custom Hubs, Front Dig with Disk Brake, lots of p

[crawlbe4youwalk]

Originally Posted by CCFBERG

My entire frame is Silver soldered! Dont let anyone tell you its not strong enough Its plenty strong if done rite. Your heat has to be good and you have to use the proper Silver Solder and if your using brake line that is galvanized you MUST remove the Galvanic coating or it will not bond to the metal properly.

My rig is 15 pounds, 9 out of every 10 rigs out there arent even close to that heavy. So having said that when this thing takes a hit to the frame its taking a hell of a hit, much harder than most of the tubers out there due to thier light weight.

My rig took several hard hits, rollovers down steep rocks flipps and just took a hell of a bashing at the comp this last weekend. Ive inspected it and there are no sighns of anything going wrong. Prior to this comp durring the building of it, it has fallen multipal times onto the concreat floor in my shop, my wife had a brain fart and stood on it kinda lifting herself up with that foot ontop of it, (granit she's only 124lbs) but still, also it fell about 4 feet to the floor when I was doing winch testing. After all this nothing is bent, broke, damaged in any way! Except the paint Im very anal about strait lines, possible cracks, deformation in any thing I am working on or building. (probably because I work on Air Force Jets for a living) I have a very keen eye for that stuff so trust me if it wasnt strong I would know.

I wont deny that brazing and or welding is the best and strongest way but its not the only way!

There is one real pain in the ass thing about soldering a tube frame. When you get to areas where there are multiple tubes ending in one place or that make up one joint its a pain in the ass not to disrupt or melt the last soldering you did at that point. However, once you figure out how to get past that your golden! Its simple!! And solder is easy to clean up in the joint areas, little sand paper and mabe filing and thats it.

If you would like some more help on this just PM me and Id be happy to offer up my ways!

Here is a link to my build so you can see the frame build up and how clean it turned out. Page #3 has the finished frame pics prior to paint,

My Tuber build, Hydraulic Steering, Custom Hubs, Front Dig with Disk Brake, lots of p

CC you are correct in saying that you can solder tubing. It's a bit more complicated for a person first starting. To combat the multiple heating joints, invest in the black flux. Black flux is a high temp flux and needs more heat to melt than white. Coating close joints that your brazing will slow down the distribution of heat to your already brazed joints. The proper torch makes a world of difference. I know the $50 mapp torch is what people can afford, but when you step up to a little torch even an noob can be a pro with this thing. Your heating at over 1600 deg in an 1/8 inch or smaller flame. That kind of precision will quickly heat the joint, mold it and not distribute heat through your tubing. I hope this helps!!

[Robb]

Silver Soldering (hard soldering) is technically Brazing.

Soft Soldering, as I assumed this thread to be about, is not strong enough to build a tuber from.

[crawlbe4youwalk]

"assumptions are the mother of all f*** ups." Yes that movie was gay!!

[Robb]

Originally Posted by crawlbe4youwalk

"assumptions are the mother of all f*** ups." Yes that movie was gay!!

I am just saying, when someone asks about soldering and how well it will hold, they usually aren't referring to hard soldering.

[freetimecrawler]

Originally Posted by Robb

Silver Soldering (hard soldering) is technically Brazing.

Soft Soldering, as I assumed this thread to be about, is not strong enough to build a tuber from.

Exactly, isn't Harris Safety Silv about the same thing?
Why wouldn't you use that? Besides the price, it's about the same technique as soldering, and makes very strong joints.