RCCrawler Forums

2JSC · 02-02-2009, 10:47 PM

I'm building all the front links and probably the rear upers on Ivy. Was planning on delrin with 4mm studs & Revos, but your's look like the real deal.

Scottish · 02-02-2009, 11:28 PM

Some times i will make some links out of 1/8 steel rod. cut it to length and put it in the chuck of a drill and run it into a dye. it depends on the application and location to what i make links out of. have made out of 1/4 aluminum, delrin, esc. Depends on what is avail at the time i guess

jeffc · 02-03-2009, 07:57 AM

Ya'll do some nice work

JEFF

racerfred · 08-06-2009, 10:43 PM

A place called micro mark, they have been around for 15-20 years or more. They also have other handy small tools that we could use.
www.micromark.com

deephis46 · 08-07-2009, 01:28 AM

I dont use tap though. I just cut from brakeline tubing how much length I want and braze it with screw on all ends.

C*H*U*D · 08-07-2009, 08:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Grizzly4x4

They are wicked tough, don't need paint, and slide on rocks better than aluminum.

I built them because I bent my steel brakeline ones.
Here's a pic of them on my super. Jato ends at the axle and Revo ends at the chassis.

Any reason for Jato on one end and Revo on the other? I just made mine up with 8-32 all-thread, stainless 1/4" and Jato's on both ends.

paintballer9876 · 08-07-2009, 09:55 AM

well 1/4" delrin tapped to 3mm on the mini, 5/16" delrin tapped to 3mm on the berg, and 1/2" delrin tapped to 4mm, all with solid delrin rod. I use a drill press to tap and to bevel the ends of the links a hack saw to cut the links and files to get the links smooth.

I get my taps from this place (along with all my other hardware) http://www.aaametric.com/, its a local place and i can get things much cheaper there than places like hobby stores and hardware stores.

acrosteve · 08-07-2009, 10:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by C*H*U*D

Any reason for Jato on one end and Revo on the other? I just made mine up with 8-32 all-thread, stainless 1/4" and Jato's on both ends.

I have the same ???

Is the hole through the link different?

C*H*U*D · 08-07-2009, 01:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by acrosteve

I have the same ???

Is the hole through the link different?

I just found out......It was to adjust the wheel base for competition requirements.

acrosteve · 08-07-2009, 05:04 PM

Oh, so everything else being equal, the length from the face of the link to the centerline of the joint would be different.

Could also be accomplished with spacers, I suppose.

Grizzly4x4 · 08-07-2009, 06:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by C*H*U*D

I just found out......It was to adjust the wheel base for competition requirements.

Quote:

Originally Posted by acrosteve

Oh, so everything else being equal, the length from the face of the link to the centerline of the joint would be different.

Could also be accomplished with spacers, I suppose.

Correct-a-mundo! I talked to CHUD today.

I originally built the links for a 17" wb and later decided I wanted it a bit longer. Swapping on the Jato ends was just a quicker and easier way of gaining 3/8" of wheelbase than building all new links.

Spacers would use up valuable thread engagement into the rod end. To use spacers you would need to cut longer all thread.
Swapping on the Jato ends didn't require building anything new, although it would be a good idea to cut new all thread to get as much thread engagement as possible.

goodoldlevi · 08-07-2009, 10:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Culetto

This is by far the most durable. The revo rod end will shatter before you ever bend the links.

A couple personal tips:
Cut the allthread with a dremel and file the threads clean. Its much easier to put the rod ends on.

You can use a dremel but i use a nice high quality tubing cutter to cut the tubes down, it makes your ends perfectly square and leaves a nice edge. Then use a drill bit to reopen the ends of the tubing.

You only need to leave 1/4 - 3/8 of the thread showing.

If you need bent lower links bend them with the allthread inside and they are brutally tough.

Thrugh lots of trial and error what they said works great, but i have been using these http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXHFV9&P=OW , saves some time and money! Just bend them in a vice if you want bent links

WolverineX · 08-09-2009, 05:11 AM

Tried to compile a list of Rod ends/Part Numbers but it's in metric...
http://www.ukrcrc.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=4107

flexcrawler · 08-09-2009, 01:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nerve

I made up some homemade links using the 1/4 brakeline, 8/32 all thread and Traxxas #5525 ball ends.

Me too. Cheap and strong. Home Depot has the threaded rod btw.

CelicaST_CALI · 08-18-2009, 03:09 PM

lowes sells threaded rod,then u just slip brakline over it,no tap needed

Jokerrw · 08-18-2009, 05:51 PM

i made mine out of all thread and tubing

Emsley · 11-22-2009, 01:46 AM

I work in a Paintball Pro Shop and was looking for some Delrin stock to make some links with. You can never find anything when you are looking for it, but after it appears.
I found some Macro Line used in the paintball industry to transfer air from the ASA (where the tank screws in) to the main gun. This Macro line is made of a high pressure plastic, it can take pressure to 3000 psi and is some what flexable tube. I can use a knife to cut it into any length I want and use a hair dryer to shape it straight. I happen to have Macro line with two different inside diamaters. The one size is just shy of the 3mm set screw used on the Axial links. I just thread the set screw in and it cuts it's own threads into the plastic and I then put a Axial end on. The second Macro Line tubes inside diamater is a bit bigger. Big enough to be able to put bolts threw and use it as spacers. I just cut it to any size i need. All this Macro line I use was just scraps from what is left. Below are some pictures of what I used and how it turned out. It slides real nice on rocks and stuff. I have only used it on my scale I am building, but it should slide real nice on rocks and such.
Next I am going to use some of the Macro Line in a bumper build.

Breatholdiveri · 11-24-2009, 08:50 PM

Those might bend pretty easily. The stainless or brakeline adds rigity to them and makes them a hell of a lot tougher. Good find though.

DaHawaiiKid · 12-26-2010, 04:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Emsley

looks like you bent them already?? but i would have never thought of that...

Speedweigand · 12-05-2011, 06:13 PM

Lets bring this thread back from the dead

10/32 is some beefy all-thread

I'm adding a link to this for the Wraith guys

08-06-2009, 10:43 PM	#24
racerfred Quarry Creeper Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Philadelphia, PA Posts: 352	Taps and Dies A place called micro mark, they have been around for 15-20 years or more. They also have other handy small tools that we could use. www.micromark.com

02-02-2009, 10:47 PM	#21
2JSC I wanna be Dave Join Date: May 2006 Location: FOUR 8 OH Posts: 4,913	I'm building all the front links and probably the rear upers on Ivy. Was planning on delrin with 4mm studs & Revos, but your's look like the real deal.

02-02-2009, 11:28 PM	#22
Scottish Pebble Pounder Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: E. Concord Posts: 179	Some times i will make some links out of 1/8 steel rod. cut it to length and put it in the chuck of a drill and run it into a dye. it depends on the application and location to what i make links out of. have made out of 1/4 aluminum, delrin, esc. Depends on what is avail at the time i guess

02-03-2009, 07:57 AM	#23
jeffc Pebble Pounder Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: MIDDLE TN. Posts: 128	Ya'll do some nice work JEFF

08-07-2009, 01:28 AM	#25
deephis46 Quarry Creeper Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Near my tools Posts: 276	I dont use tap though. I just cut from brakeline tubing how much length I want and braze it with screw on all ends.

08-07-2009, 09:55 AM	#27
paintballer9876 Quarry Creeper Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Punta Gorda, Flo-rida Posts: 453	well 1/4" delrin tapped to 3mm on the mini, 5/16" delrin tapped to 3mm on the berg, and 1/2" delrin tapped to 4mm, all with solid delrin rod. I use a drill press to tap and to bevel the ends of the links a hack saw to cut the links and files to get the links smooth. I get my taps from this place (along with all my other hardware) http://www.aaametric.com/, its a local place and i can get things much cheaper there than places like hobby stores and hardware stores.

08-07-2009, 05:04 PM	#30
acrosteve Pebble Pounder Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Jackson Posts: 141	Oh, so everything else being equal, the length from the face of the link to the centerline of the joint would be different. Could also be accomplished with spacers, I suppose.

08-09-2009, 05:11 AM	#33
WolverineX Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: North Wales, UK. Posts: 404	Tried to compile a list of Rod ends/Part Numbers but it's in metric... http://www.ukrcrc.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=4107

08-18-2009, 03:09 PM	#35
CelicaST_CALI Rock Stacker Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Rocklin/Jackson CA Posts: 62	lowes sells threaded rod,then u just slip brakline over it,no tap needed

08-18-2009, 05:51 PM	#36
Jokerrw Rock Stacker Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: Norwalk, Ca Posts: 54	i made mine out of all thread and tubing

11-22-2009, 01:46 AM	#37
Emsley Newbie Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Calgary Posts: 32	I work in a Paintball Pro Shop and was looking for some Delrin stock to make some links with. You can never find anything when you are looking for it, but after it appears. I found some Macro Line used in the paintball industry to transfer air from the ASA (where the tank screws in) to the main gun. This Macro line is made of a high pressure plastic, it can take pressure to 3000 psi and is some what flexable tube. I can use a knife to cut it into any length I want and use a hair dryer to shape it straight. I happen to have Macro line with two different inside diamaters. The one size is just shy of the 3mm set screw used on the Axial links. I just thread the set screw in and it cuts it's own threads into the plastic and I then put a Axial end on. The second Macro Line tubes inside diamater is a bit bigger. Big enough to be able to put bolts threw and use it as spacers. I just cut it to any size i need. All this Macro line I use was just scraps from what is left. Below are some pictures of what I used and how it turned out. It slides real nice on rocks and stuff. I have only used it on my scale I am building, but it should slide real nice on rocks and such. Next I am going to use some of the Macro Line in a bumper build.

Sponsored Links

11-24-2009, 08:50 PM	#38
Breatholdiveri Rock Stacker Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Cranston Posts: 70	Those might bend pretty easily. The stainless or brakeline adds rigity to them and makes them a hell of a lot tougher. Good find though.

12-05-2011, 06:13 PM	#40
Speedweigand Quarry Creeper Join Date: Sep 2011 Location: Columbus, Ohio USA Posts: 390	Lets bring this thread back from the dead 10/32 is some beefy all-thread I'm adding a link to this for the Wraith guys

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Thread: Anybody make their own links?