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Old 01-28-2009, 08:15 PM   #1
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Default Custom Wheel Weights

It never fails when I’m building wheels; my LHS will be one package of stick on weights short of what I need to complete the job! After some head scratching and a couple glasses of bourbon I came up with a solution.

Set one: Use your dial caliper or a metric rule to measure the width and depth of your wheel cut out.

Step two: Find a piece of scrap of lumber about 2-3 feet long. I used poplar but the harder the better. Make sure the lumber is kiln dried.

Step three: Use a stack dado blade or a router to cut a groove to the same width and depth as the wheel cut out.

Step four: Find an old aluminum pot and long handled spoon.

Step five: Put the pot on the stove or any other good heat source. Some people fear that there is a possible hazard of lead fumes so I did this outside on the side burner of my gas grill.

Step six: Add clean lead to the pot. I used an old scuba weight, but any thing will work, wheel weights, flashing, or old pipe. Make sure there is no moisture on the lead. Caution!! Molten lead and water do not mix! The result will be a steam explosion. Do not allow water to come in contact with molten lead.

Step seven: Turn the burner up high and wait for the lead to melt. You will likely see a crust on top of the lead, this is impurities. Just skim it off and throw it into and old (dry) tin can. One the lead is molten turn the heat down until it just stays liquid.

Step Eight: Pour the molten lead slowly into the mold until flush with the groove you cut. Wait about five minutes and bang the mold on a hard surface. The new custom wheel weights should pop right out. You may get a few air bubbles with your first couple of pours, until your mold is seasoned.

The best part of all of this is you can use the weights over and over just throw them back in the pot. If you need a heaver weight cut a deeper groove, regardless of the weight you select you can make a continuous piece with only one seam.
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Old 01-28-2009, 08:25 PM   #2
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Default Final result

Here is the final result. A stock Axial 2.2 wheel with out weight is 1 oz, with the center cut out completely filled it weighs 6.4 oz.
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Old 01-28-2009, 09:57 PM   #3
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very cool. I like the idea and a nice step by step.
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Old 01-28-2009, 10:23 PM   #4
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Very well written guide. well done might just have to try this one myself
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Old 01-29-2009, 12:06 PM   #5
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I take it you can use a soldering iron to weld the seam together...

Nice work.
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Old 01-29-2009, 06:38 PM   #6
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Actually at 3/16 of an inch thick the lead is so thick you do not need tape, glue or anything to hold it in place. I took a piece of motor wire and made a loop around the wheel for an accurate measurement, then laid it on my lead strip and cut it nice and square. I used heand pressure and some light taps with a plastic hammer to form a perfect fit. It is so tight it will not spin freely on the wheel.
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Old 01-31-2009, 12:45 PM   #7
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I wish i would have seen this post 2 days ago. It is a lot cleaner than the duct tape and bbs I used!
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Old 02-03-2009, 07:55 AM   #8
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A good idea and a good grill, Blue Ember !
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Old 02-03-2009, 08:28 AM   #9
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lol this is a cool post but you know if you cant find weights at your lh you could just got to hobby lobby and they sell them there for some little wood cars but you could also get the weights there and make some of these
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Old 02-03-2009, 08:40 AM   #10
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This should almost be a sticky. A guy could save alot for himself or make alot if many people wanted to buy some. I should of done this process on my vanquish wheels making slugs. Could of save 40bucks easy
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Old 02-04-2009, 07:29 AM   #11
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great I idea. I have the weights from full size cars that I could melt down for this use
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Old 02-06-2009, 10:01 AM   #12
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Umm if your going to handle the weights alot look around for some plastidip! Keep you and the lead apart!! It comes in colors and will flex with the lead as you wrap it around your wheel!!!

Last edited by WarTrader; 02-06-2009 at 10:07 AM.
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Old 02-06-2009, 11:31 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hondo View Post
I
Step five: Put the pot on the stove or any other good heat source. Some people fear that there is a possible hazard of lead fumes so I did this outside on the side burner of my gas grill.

The fume hazard is very real. Cooking lead creates some nasty stuff you don't wan to breath. NEVER do this in your kitchen, always outside and wear a suitable gas mask is possible. Also, as you mentioned, keep water away from the molten lead.

Nice write up, good clean way to install the weight.
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Old 03-01-2009, 02:46 PM   #14
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also local wally world, fishing weights melt them down cheap
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Old 04-12-2009, 09:16 AM   #15
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Tire stores also have lead weights free/cheep also auto part stores sell boxes of weights
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Old 04-12-2009, 10:28 AM   #16
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Nice thread, again any tire shop, Kragen, Pep Boys , Auto Zone or any car related parts store should carry stick weights for under a buck or so. The only way this is cheaper is if the lead you use to melt down is free. Nice how to though, good read.
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Old 04-12-2009, 12:08 PM   #17
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This is a good idea. I usually get rolls of lead rod from a sporting goods store in the fishing tackle dept and just wrap it around my wheels until I have enough weight. It should stay in place on its own but I always wrap a layer of electrical tape around it just to make sure.
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Old 04-13-2009, 09:21 AM   #18
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3 questions:

(1) i take it the large spoon needs to be aluminum also?

(2) how does the side burner get hot enough? i know most only get to about 300 degrees and i looked up the melting temp for lead and it said somewhere around 600 degrees.

(3) how do you get the wood kiln dried? can u jus bake it in your oven for a few min?
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Old 04-28-2009, 06:06 PM   #19
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you could use the duck decoy weights that are straps and its the same thing and they flex nicely about 4-6 ozs a pice hmmm i think ill try it wal-mart had them on clearance after duck season
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Old 04-30-2009, 01:27 AM   #20
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With this How To and the one on converting stock MRC wheels to Real Beadlocks, I might save enough money to afford a new chasis Thanks
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