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Old 02-10-2009, 07:01 PM   #21
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The only soldering iron I've ever owned:



http://www.amazon.com/Weller-WLC100-...4316500&sr=1-1

I bought it when I was ~18 after having used various relatives crappy random solder guns & irons. I have been happy with it, never once had an issue, and never once had it not do what I needed. I have two tips, a small pencil (3/32?) and a medium (3/16?).

I think I paid ~60 bucks or so, and have recieved 15+ years of flawless use out it. So yeah, a good soldering iron is well worth the price.
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Old 02-12-2009, 08:24 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by letus View Post
The only soldering iron I've ever owned:



http://www.amazon.com/Weller-WLC100-...4316500&sr=1-1

I bought it when I was ~18 after having used various relatives crappy random solder guns & irons. I have been happy with it, never once had an issue, and never once had it not do what I needed. I have two tips, a small pencil (3/32?) and a medium (3/16?).

I think I paid ~60 bucks or so, and have recieved 15+ years of flawless use out it. So yeah, a good soldering iron is well worth the price.
I have the same one and have used it anything from audio cables to 4 gauge power wire and it has worked very well for me.
Now I do wish I had a nicer one just because it's nicer, but I doubt I'll ever buy one since this one has done everything i have asked it to do
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Old 02-12-2009, 09:44 AM   #23
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I use the radio shack 45 with no problems. Have had it about a year, and still works great for me. That being said, I would like to upgrade some day. But I'm in no rush.
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Old 02-12-2009, 10:40 AM   #24
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Default harbor freight solder tool -- awsome

i bought a 7 dollor harbor freight solder tool it comes with 10 tips, had it for 3 years, solder all my motors and esc wires ect. with no problems!!
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Old 02-12-2009, 10:59 AM   #25
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I'm going to get the Hakko FX-901, then I can take it with me anywhere... from what I have read it works great for small stuff like we do on the crawlers.

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Old 02-12-2009, 02:38 PM   #26
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The only thing no one has touched on is what type of solder is being used!? I've had a 936 for ever, the only thing I've had any problem soldering or desoldering is Castlecreations ESC wires, They must use solder from "H3LL" cause it just won't work for me! I've found that if your using a mega-hi silver content in the solder it's a pain!! Just get a good 60/40 rosin core solder and some flux for the big jobs, make sure it's for electrical stuff not Plumbing applications. Give that a try, and all should flow well

Also tinning everything helps; but when done with the iron(for the day or just a few min.), always clean then tin the tip and it will last forever!!

Last edited by cato; 02-12-2009 at 02:41 PM.
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Old 02-12-2009, 04:41 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cato View Post
The only thing no one has touched on is what type of solder is being used!? I've had a 936 for ever, the only thing I've had any problem soldering or desoldering is Castlecreations ESC wires, They must use solder from "H3LL" cause it just won't work for me! I've found that if your using a mega-hi silver content in the solder it's a pain!! Just get a good 60/40 rosin core solder and some flux for the big jobs, make sure it's for electrical stuff not Plumbing applications. Give that a try, and all should flow well

Also tinning everything helps; but when done with the iron(for the day or just a few min.), always clean then tin the tip and it will last forever!!
Most electronics sold in the US are RoHS compliant (since they are also trying to sell the same item in the EU, which enforces it) and that means no lead solder. So yeah, I would hazard a guess that is what is causing the pain with the ESC.

Last edited by letus; 02-12-2009 at 04:43 PM.
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Old 02-12-2009, 11:32 PM   #28
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I had a 100/140W weller gun and it really didn't work good at all for RC wiring/battery bars. It was $30. I just bought a $36 dollar craftsman gun ~200W and it works great! The tips are just a little too big but they could be grinded down smaller probably...
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Old 02-12-2009, 11:51 PM   #29
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I have a weller soldering sation wesd something - 350 to 850 temp range - digital readout - 80 watts - perfect for the track and fits well in the tool box - light and powerfull - draw back is the price - $125.00 -
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Old 02-13-2009, 08:17 AM   #30
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I use flux and a quick heat of ~700-800 degrees for soldering. Flux will help alot. And the wires need to be clean. If their not clean then it is nearly impossible to make solder bond correctly
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Old 02-14-2009, 01:10 AM   #31
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I hate my Iron. I want a nice one. It took me 15 min to get a traxxas conection on my battery to night.

Also what is tinning ???
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Old 02-14-2009, 01:20 AM   #32
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I bought a 936 from the LHS and it worked exactly the way a soldering iron should. i had my whole truck wired within 10 mins. I will hold onto this sucker for LIFE
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Old 02-15-2009, 01:52 AM   #33
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i bought a Weller PSI100K a few years back to suppliment my weller soldering station. my previous job required a lot of soldering and there were many occasions where moving the work was impratical. aside from the obvious great feature, its a very capable general purpose iron. the stock tips are a little large for some of the smaller joints, but smaller tips are available. its heats quick and is adjustable w/o changing tips! hot knife tip included. the hot air tip is AWESOME! heat shrink doesn't scorch as easily as with a torch or lighter. i've even use it for re-work on surface mounted components! anywho, VERY handy tool and should handle most of the demands of any rc modeler!

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Old 02-15-2009, 07:47 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by werewolf1983 View Post
I hate my Iron. I want a nice one. It took me 15 min to get a traxxas conection on my battery to night.

Also what is tinning ???
I'm by no means an expert on this subject, but i'l give it a shot. Tinning is basically putting some solder on both components before you solder them together. I would guess that your connector problem is a lack of enough heat from your iron. Also a larger chisel type tip won't cool down as quick and help to put more heat into the parts being soldered. My personal preference for a soldering iron is the Hakko 936.
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Old 02-15-2009, 11:29 AM   #35
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Another vote for the Hakko 936
I have had mine for about a year and am very happy with it
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Old 06-09-2009, 06:31 PM   #36
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I used to have 48watt Solomon soldering station at home, I've also used Wellers (at work), but I've recently updated to the new LRP soldering station (at home) and must say that it's miles better than anything 've tried before. It's real professional quality, it heats up in about 15 seconds and has automatic off. I'm pressing my employer to get LRP soldering stations instead of the Wellers .
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Old 06-09-2009, 06:52 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by letus View Post
Most electronics sold in the US are RoHS compliant (since they are also trying to sell the same item in the EU, which enforces it) and that means no lead solder. So yeah, I would hazard a guess that is what is causing the pain with the ESC.
RoHS compliant solder is only about 3% silver and readily joins to non RoHS compliant solder. So that probably isn't the issue here. I have had no problems soldering CC products with regular 60/40 rosin core solder.
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Old 08-06-2009, 01:47 PM   #38
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Originally bought a 45 W soldering iron from The Source (formerly radioshack). It performed okay but found out that they don't even make replacement tips for it! So I returned it and bought a 25W Weller from Canadian Tire and it melts solder fast! Weller irons all the way.
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Old 08-06-2009, 05:37 PM   #39
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I got my 60w iron from Holmes Hobbies for like $6 or something. Cheap and works like a charm.

btw: tinning helps a TON.
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Old 08-06-2009, 07:51 PM   #40
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I have a Weller 30,40 and 60 all together under $35 I haven't found anything I can't solder a quality solder helps to. A 45 watt with the right tip should be hot enough.
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