RCCrawler Forums

NeoSlayer888 · 10-09-2005, 05:42 PM

I am in the process of making my tuber. I currently need to notch the tubing so I can weld it up. I need the notches to be parallel to the bottom of the frame.
Like so:

I could use a circular file to do the notches, but since I recently got a mill, figured I should use it. The only way I can see this being done is with a ball ended mill.
Like so:

There is the vice, two 1/4" aluminum plates to spread the load, and the end mill.

What are the chances of this setup working? Any other suggestions to get the notches done?

BENDER · 10-09-2005, 09:35 PM

That should work, 1/4" vice jaws might be a little on the thin side. Maybe try to find some 1/2" thick material for the vice jaws. I'd cut as much excess tubing off as possible with a saw before milling it, the endmill will be less likely to grab the tubing.

roktoy · 10-09-2005, 10:54 PM

It'll work, just gotta clamp the tube close to the edge so it doesn't jump around.

I found it more trouble so I do it with hand files or an abrasive cutoff wheel and cleaned with a file.

Jay

NeoSlayer888 · 10-09-2005, 11:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BENDER

1/4" vice jaws might be a little on the thin side. Maybe try to find some 1/2" thick material for the vice jaws.

Are you talking about the actual vice jaws or the pieces I would put between the jaws to spread the force along the tubing?

I have a drill press vice and not a proper mill vice.

BENDER · 10-10-2005, 08:04 AM

I'm talking about the custom vice jaws that are holding the tubing in the 2nd pic. It might be thick enough, I'm just used to set-ups being overkill as far as rigidity goes.

BultacoJim · 10-10-2005, 02:11 PM

Most portable Commercial Pipe Notching units, http://www.off-road.com/chevy/jointjigger/notcher.html use a “Hole Saw”.

For large DOM tubing for roll bars and such, an annular cutter mounted in a large Bridgeport size Mill works better than an end mill.

http://www.thefabricator.com/TubePip...le.cfm?ID=1151

Specilized lathes using end mills like this do exist though.

http://www.bii1.com/notcher_tubeandpipe.htm

For brake tubing, I use a round file used to sharpen chain saw blades. Brake tubing is so soft that you waste more time trying to hold it rigidly in your fixture than you spend by just filing it by hand.

Quote:

Originally Posted by BENDER

I'm just used to set-ups being overkill as far as rigidity goes.

I second that! I hate picking metal pieces out of my flesh.

Ace · 10-14-2005, 05:36 PM

Should work.

The tube is probably buldged down at the two bends. So, the 1/4" vice plates will only really grab the tube down there. The ends of the tubes where your cutting will bounce around and chatter.

Could try gripping just up by the tube end, seperately for each cut. Or maybe adding some cardboard to the vice "jaws" to add compliance, or ???

NeoSlayer888 · 10-23-2005, 04:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ace

The tube is probably buldged down at the two bends. So, the 1/4" vice plates will only really grab the tube down there. The ends of the tubes where your cutting will bounce around and chatter.

Could try gripping just up by the tube end, seperately for each cut. Or maybe adding some cardboard to the vice "jaws" to add compliance, or ???

I got tired of waiting and just did the notches the low tech way, with a file. Ace is 100% correct, the ends wobble around even with a file, placing cardboard between the jaws and the tubing solves that problem.

JohnRobHolmes · 10-23-2005, 06:02 PM

it took a long time for me to set up and mill each individual tube on my mill. I ended up using a file as well, it was faster.

10-09-2005, 05:42 PM	#1
NeoSlayer888 Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: CSU, CO Posts: 290	Would this work? (notching tube with a mill) I am in the process of making my tuber. I currently need to notch the tubing so I can weld it up. I need the notches to be parallel to the bottom of the frame. Like so: I could use a circular file to do the notches, but since I recently got a mill, figured I should use it. The only way I can see this being done is with a ball ended mill. Like so: There is the vice, two 1/4" aluminum plates to spread the load, and the end mill. What are the chances of this setup working? Any other suggestions to get the notches done?

10-09-2005, 09:35 PM	#2
BENDER 2006 2.2 National Champ Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Big Bear Lake Posts: 8,328	That should work, 1/4" vice jaws might be a little on the thin side. Maybe try to find some 1/2" thick material for the vice jaws. I'd cut as much excess tubing off as possible with a saw before milling it, the endmill will be less likely to grab the tubing.

10-09-2005, 10:54 PM	#3
roktoy Dirt Addict Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Stumblin' thru the parking lot of an invisible 7-Eleven Posts: 1,053	It'll work, just gotta clamp the tube close to the edge so it doesn't jump around. I found it more trouble so I do it with hand files or an abrasive cutoff wheel and cleaned with a file. Jay

10-10-2005, 08:04 AM	#5
BENDER 2006 2.2 National Champ Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Big Bear Lake Posts: 8,328	I'm talking about the custom vice jaws that are holding the tubing in the 2nd pic. It might be thick enough, I'm just used to set-ups being overkill as far as rigidity goes.

10-14-2005, 05:36 PM	#7
Ace Rock Crawler Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Longmont, CO Posts: 901	Should work. The tube is probably buldged down at the two bends. So, the 1/4" vice plates will only really grab the tube down there. The ends of the tubes where your cutting will bounce around and chatter. Could try gripping just up by the tube end, seperately for each cut. Or maybe adding some cardboard to the vice "jaws" to add compliance, or ???

10-23-2005, 06:02 PM	#9
JohnRobHolmes owner, Holmes Hobbies LLC Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Volt up! Gear down! Posts: 20,290	it took a long time for me to set up and mill each individual tube on my mill. I ended up using a file as well, it was faster.

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