05-14-2009, 07:05 PM | #1 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Louisville, KY
Posts: 361
| Brazing ques.
I've started building my own frame (ver 2.0) and am brazing it all together instead of bolting. The problem i'm having is where my crossmembers/center skid meet the 1/2" x 1/2" cut square tube, cut to c-channel, I can't get the metal hot enough at the joint for the braze to flow nicely over the metal and into the joint, it just clumps on top and isnt very strong. I'm using an adjustabel head with propelyne. Do I need the oxygen kit to get it hot enough with this thicker stuff?
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05-15-2009, 06:08 AM | #2 |
On the lookout for Rocks Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Monroe, Louisiana
Posts: 3,711
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Mapp gas seems to work fine for me.
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05-15-2009, 09:20 AM | #3 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: N.E. Mpls
Posts: 854
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I have also had issues with the thicker metal....In my case I used 2 torches working together then when it starts to flow I set down 1 torch and grab the solder...............really seems to help and saves on gas. If this is not an option try heating a bigger general area the thinking behind this is that you have more heat in the srrounding metal that is helping and not cooling.... I did this for my lonewolf tuber(check out thread in 2.2 section) This is also my 1st attempt at brazeing All worked out for me mine is currently getting the paint baked on.................. |
05-15-2009, 10:34 AM | #4 |
Custom Carbon Fiber Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Connecticut :(
Posts: 4,501
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yeah same problem i ran across with my Landcruiser frame. took the cut off disc on the dremel and cleaned the thicker metal up nice and shiny, made sure my tube was sanded clean, applied extra flux and heated the heavier piece first then worked over to the tubing. the extra flux helped me from burning the tube while i heated the c-channel up. good luck. |
05-15-2009, 11:25 AM | #5 |
Colt Python/SR9c Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: out in the shop, reloading ammo!
Posts: 8,626
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If your not using Mapp gas, that is your first problem. Not sure if it your working with different thickness material or not. But if you are, you need to start heating the thicker material first, then once it starts heating, move over to the 2nd piece. Also, you can use a dremel to thin the material down some. But I also have the oxygen/mapp torch kit for when brazing thicker to thinner material when I'm in a hurry. Using that type of torch setup, gets the material hotter and faster. But as mentioned, mapp should do just fine |
05-15-2009, 11:20 PM | #6 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Louisville, KY
Posts: 361
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Yeah, using mapp. I'm trying to braze some of that 1/2 x 1/2" square tube with like 1/16 wall thickness. The center pan, front body/servo mount, and rear shock mount are all made from some metal just a shy thinner. I can get it nice and red but not that bright orange like the rod I have does. I just want to make sure I get some good flow so that its strong. I beat on it pretty hard. My bolted together one had a wave in it when I tore it down. It could be my prep. I never could find any brazing flux so I got the cheap rod from Home Depot that has flux already on it. I also don't clean the metal before I braze it. |
05-16-2009, 01:32 PM | #7 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: southaven
Posts: 1,934
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05-17-2009, 12:26 AM | #8 | |||
RCC Addict Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: crawlifornia
Posts: 1,612
| combination of things Quote:
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I've heard decent results with the rod you bought, but most prefer the Safety Silv 45 or 56. As TC said, you should preheat the thicker, and heat a larger area on the thicker material. Most how to's say that the flux sucks the soder into the joint and heating from behind the joint, not directly, will allow it to flow more effectively. The material does not really need to be that hot with the right prep, and heating techniques. | |||
05-18-2009, 12:51 PM | #9 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Louisville, KY
Posts: 361
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Alright. I'll try that out. I need to find someplace local that sells brazing supplies. But the j/k has been put on the backburner temporarily. Cracked the flywheel in my 1:1 Monte Carlo SS.
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05-18-2009, 02:18 PM | #10 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: trying to find out what a TVuPer is.....
Posts: 1,851
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05-18-2009, 08:30 PM | #11 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Louisville, KY
Posts: 361
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Nah. Then it'd be all off balance. I did upgrade to a SFI certified one though.
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