O'Rielys 3/16 brake line?

[YelloTJ]

Im sure someone has used this for a tuber before. I got all my brake line frome o'rielys and have had the hardest time brazing with it.
It looks like its galvinized so i tried to sand down everywhere that was goin to be brazed. Just seems like the braze wire wont flow it just balls up and doesnt stick. It may be me doin something wrong more than likely but I have been able to get it to work a few times.....i finally gave up and pulled out the welder to finish my build. Just curious if its me or anyone else had trouble with their brake line.

one more thing... it looks like its copper inside, is it? and just coated with something like zinc or galv. it was kinda hard weldin to too. seemed like it blew holes too easy.

[YelloTJ]

forgot to mention one more thing.
I was able to braze some zinc plated nuts to it for body panels and didnt have any trouble with the nuts takin the braze wire but then when i tried to put them on the tube half of them gave me a time tryin to get them to work. Am i just not sandin enough coatin off or something? I thought I was b/c i took a flat file to it and flatspoted it a few times lol

[STJ7780]

Some times the galvanized coating will keep the braze from flowing in to the joint. Did you use flux?
Steve

[friscokidd]

Not sure, but all the brake line i use has a green coding on it and i just use a dremel to clear it off. Use flux and heat it up for a bit and it works fine. It does seem to ball up, but i just put more heat on it and it finally melts it.

[cruz*hotboxrc]

make sure to wear a mask those galvi fumes can be deadly.... try to use all steel lines non coated....

[YelloTJ]

yeah i used flux, I got the stay silver stuff i read about on here. I guess i just didnt get it hot enough on some of them. I used a grinder to knock the galv. off. And I know better than to breath the fumes. I welded for 6 years and had to weld lots of galv. stuff. If you know you gonna be exposed to the fumes, Drink lots of milk. Help keep you from gettin sick.

[STJ7780]

I have found that it when the metal is red hot and the flux turns the surface shiny, the silver will flow right in. Make sure it is red hot then try again. I have been using mapp gas and a high flow tip, makes short work of it. Good luck
Steve

[War Pig]

Originally Posted by STJ7780

I have found that it when the metal is red hot and the flux turns the surface shiny, the silver will flow right in. Make sure it is red hot then try again. I have been using mapp gas and a high flow tip, makes short work of it. Good luck
Steve

Really? With the Safety Silv 45 I find that if you heat it too much (orange or red hot) then it doesn't flow in and stick very well. I've always found that when the flux is melted, shiny, and the tubing on each side of the joint just starts to turn purple/blue that it's the time to feed the silver solder into the joint. It may be different because I use oxy-acetylene, but I always have trouble if the tubing gets too hot before I feed the solder into it. I may have to make a little video since this comes up on here so often.

[Crawln Coles]

Tim It's prolly because you're using oxy/acetylene. Our Mapp torches don't get as hot.

What I do is make sure both surfaces are clean first.
Then apply alot of flux.
Heat the joint from different angles
The flux will turn hard, then liquify & turn shiny.
While that is happening I put my silv into the flame for a few seconds
Then I paint it over the joint, usually after a couple passes it will flow.

Now I use Mapp gas. I have the auto light torch that screws onto the bottle w/a finer tip & I have another newer Mapp torch that has a 3-4 ft. hose and gets a little hotter.

I just got a used oxy/acetylene setup and haven't used it yet.

[HotRodJosh]

Originally Posted by Crawln Coles

I just got a used oxy/acetylene setup and haven't used it yet.

Once you start using oxy/act, you'll never use MAPP again....way faster and more controlled....

I get my brakeline at Shucks/O'Riley and have never had a problem....I don't even remove the coating alot of times. I usually use the galv, as he Poly Armor stuff doesn't seem to braze as nice. But then I'm using flux coated brazing rod.

[STJ7780]

Originally Posted by War Pig

Really? With the Safety Silv 45 I find that if you heat it too much (orange or red hot) then it doesn't flow in and stick very well. I've always found that when the flux is melted, shiny, and the tubing on each side of the joint just starts to turn purple/blue that it's the time to feed the silver solder into the joint. It may be different because I use oxy-acetylene, but I always have trouble if the tubing gets too hot before I feed the solder into it. I may have to make a little video since this comes up on here so often.

I am using 56 for the most part, its what I had on hand. It has a little higher melting point because of the increased silver content. I don't know if mapp is any different than O/A.
Steve

[mrpink]

I have, in the past, got bad "batches" of tubing that for the life of me, would not braze (and I have been doing this for years now). I would simply throw that stuff away and get tubing from a different store and BINGO, works like a charm.

maybe try another store, buy a smaller piece to try out and move on from there...

p!nK

[mrpink]

feeling more than helpful at the moment, dug up the thread for ya....

brazing issue....

p!nK