Tix Solder and Tix Flux. Need opinions before buying.

[savagefromthesprings]

Saw this in a Micro-Mark magazine. Says that it is the Hardest Soft Solder on Earth. 4300 pounds per square inch. What do you guys think?
http://www.micromark.com/TIX-SOLDER-...ICKS,6707.html
http://www.micromark.com/TIX-SOLDERI...2-OZ,6708.html

[savagefromthesprings]

oh, and also what do you guys think about this Pinpoint Propane Torch? Think it would be a good combo with the Tix? Im a first time scale builder, so im trying to buy the basic things i need now. Thanks guys!
http://www.micromark.com/PINPOINT-PR...-SET,8312.html

[savagefromthesprings]

am i writing in Chinese or something?

[NorCalScaleCrawlers]

would probably work pretty well but are you trying to do this for electronics or to make custom parts because i think that brazing works the best but thats my opinion

[savagefromthesprings]

well, the reason I ask is because I want to know what will work the best AND cost the least. A decent brazing setup is fairly expensive and getting the gas filled is something thats not readily available around where I live. Propane tanks at wal mart on the other hand are not that expensive.

Will the mini torch with propane work good will safety silv?

[savagefromthesprings]

hello to all the 'know it alls' that respond to EVERYTHING, can I please beg for your attention on this matter?

[NorCalScaleCrawlers]

it should work then not totally positive but looks like it will hold well

[toybuilder]

Originally Posted by savagefromthesprings

well, the reason I ask is because I want to know what will work the best AND cost the least.

If you want to know what works best for this type of fabrication that's easy to answer, Harris Safety Silv 56 solder, with Harris Stay-Silv white flux. That shit isn't cheap though, and with that you're going to need to use MAPP gas, or something hotter to make decent joints in a reasonable amount of time. A Propane micro torch isn't going to cut it, you might as well use a Bic. I guess that's why you're not getting many answers to your question, there isn't really an answer for "work best and cost least". Order up whatever cheap solder you want and try it out, then let us know how it worked out maybe you'll find that it works great and then we can all save some money. In the meantime I'll keep buying what I know works. I like to experiment, but in this case I don't have the time or money to waste messing with the unknown when the answer is so obvious.

A propane torch will probably work with that solder you posted, but I doubt anyone would be happy with that setup or the joints it makes.

[toybuilder]

Originally Posted by savagefromthesprings

4300 pounds per square inch. What do you guys think?

I know the numbers that Harris advertises for Safety-Silv 56 are closer to 70,000 psi depending on the brazing conditions.

From the Harris FAQ:

"What is the tensile strength of a brazed joint?
Joint strength depends on several factors: clearance between parts, base metal composition, service temperature and joint quality (low voids, good penetration). Joint design will also affect strength.

The bulk tensile strength of silver braze alloys is 40,000-70,000 psi. When brazing copper-based alloys, failure will occur in the copper or brass. For copper this is usually the annealed strength of the copper alloy. When brazing steel or other ferrous metals, joint strength over 70,000 psi can be achieved under the right conditions.

Keep in mind that braze joints are primarily lap type joints, so strength is a combination of tensile and shear. Joint strength is directly influenced by the above mentioned factors. The only way to accurately determine tensile or other values is to test the brazed assembly."

http://www.harrisproductsgroup.com/faq.asp

[neamerjell]

jplante made a tube chassis (crazy crawler king) and when I posted and asked how he did it and with what materials, he said regular rosin core solder and a regular soldering iron. He also answered my question about durability by saying it has survived drops of greater than 2 feet.

This might be something to consider. Sometimes you don't have to go all out, "good enough" might be just what you need.

[toybuilder]

Originally Posted by neamerjell

jplante made a tube chassis (crazy crawler king) and when I posted and asked how he did it and with what materials, he said regular rosin core solder and a regular soldering iron. He also answered my question about durability by saying it has survived drops of greater than 2 feet.

This might be something to consider. Sometimes you don't have to go all out, "good enough" might be just what you need.

Sounds good. Have you tried that? A two foot drop isn't much to survive though, not if you live near any rocks.

Using the proper procedure and materials for the intended job isn't necessarily going all out, even if it *seems* expensive. I'm no expert, but I have tried all of these myself, which ones have you tried?

[vw_thing]

I have made two different tubers using rosin core solder and propane. Both are strong enough for normal use, and have survived the drop test a few times each. The trick is correct bracing. Soldered joints will shear under stress, so you want to avoid "tee" joints if possible (way weaker than triangulated designs). That being said, my oxy-acetylene rig will be put to use on any future tubers. A brazed joint will always be far stronger than the best solder joint. Bare brass rod can net you 90,000psi tensile strength, which is stronger than any non-alloy steel tubing.

The solder in question is really a bit expensive, and the low 275F melting point will make it hard to work with. It is more of a low-temp/high-stress electrical solder than a structural solder. Your local hardware store should have something cheaper for use on copper pipe, with a higher melting point.

And if you are paying $60 for a torch, I'd go with MAPP. Or spring the extra $20 for one of the small Oxy-MAPP deals. Oxy-MAPP will net you a flame right around 5000F, which will work fine for cutting, brazing, and light welding. That plus some $12/pound brass rod, and you can make a very strong and clean looking tuber with a little practice.

[savagefromthesprings]

Originally Posted by vw_thing

And if you are paying $60 for a torch, I'd go with MAPP. Or spring the extra $20 for one of the small Oxy-MAPP deals. Oxy-MAPP will net you a flame right around 5000F, which will work fine for cutting, brazing, and light welding. That plus some $12/pound brass rod, and you can make a very strong and clean looking tuber with a little practice.

can you post a link to the Oxy-MAPP deal you mentioned? thanks.

[vw_thing]

Hmm.. prices seem to vary wildly now that I look at it. Here is the most basic version: http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/3WA92?cm_mmc=Google%20Base-_-Welding-_-Gas-_-3WA92. Larger MAPP tank: http://www.thecollegetoolbox.com/tuoxtokitox.html Different brand: http://www.amazon.com/Worthington-Cy.../dp/B002UOGQN4

They are all the same basic idea, mixing MPS gas with oxygen. You can get the Bernzomatic version at Home Depot or Lowes, I forget the exact cost. The only downside is that these will burn through a fair number of non-refillable oxygen tanks. If you plan to use the torch a lot, particularly for cutting, you might be better off talking to a welding store about other options with refillable tanks. This will allow you to get your feet wet and can do almost anything necessary involving standard RC metals.