Go Back   RCCrawler Forums > RCCrawler General Tech > Tools, and Procedures
Loading

Notices

Thread: Brazing Stainless?

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 02-12-2011, 08:40 PM   #1
Pebble Pounder
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Boston
Posts: 131
Default Brazing Stainless?

Can you braze stainless steel brakeline? I tried, but i had no luck. I cleaned off the coating, fluxed, heated until cherry red, and applied flux. the flux rolled off and puddled on the tile i was brazing on.
Lemonlegs28 is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Old 02-12-2011, 10:16 PM   #2
I wanna be Dave
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Whales
Posts: 2,939
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lemonlegs28 View Post
Can you braze stainless steel brakeline? I tried, but i had no luck. I cleaned off the coating, fluxed, heated until cherry red, and applied flux. the flux rolled off and puddled on the tile i was brazing on.
When your brazing, you never want to heat up the material cherry red. Just when the metal seems to look translucent, you should apply the braze.

Another thing to remember, is to apply the flux before you apply heat

kaetwo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-13-2011, 02:06 PM   #3
Pebble Pounder
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Boston
Posts: 131
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by kaetwo View Post
When your brazing, you never want to heat up the material cherry red. Just when the metal seems to look translucent, you should apply the braze.

Another thing to remember, is to apply the flux before you apply heat

So should i try playing around with when i apply the braze? And i tried it both ways, before i heated and during heating. No luck either way. What do you use for filler when you braze? I hear of this #56 stuff, i cannot find it. Do you have a link?
Lemonlegs28 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-13-2011, 02:12 PM   #4
I wanna be Dave
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Whales
Posts: 2,939
Default

Check out this link

http://utrcrc.freeforums.org/k2-s-bl...zing-t369.html

Here are a few highlights;

Torch
There are several to choose from, but my two favorites are;

Smith Mini Torch - 23-1014

http://cgi.ebay.com/Smith-Little-Tor...item53de9b9702

Or visit http://www.smithequipment.com/

This torch is by far the best made mini torch on the market and works with Oxy/Propane or Oxy/MAPP Gass. It has replaceable tips, an 8' hose and comes with regulators for disposable tanks, available at Home Depot or Lowes.

My second choice is the bernzomatic TS7000 Auto Torch.

http://www.bernzomatic.com/PRODUCTS/...3/Default.aspx

It's super cheap and will fit the bill for just about any builder. It doesn't get as hot as the Smith torch, but it's pretty dang capable and the instant light feature is way convenient. This little guy uses MAPP or Propane without the need for Oxygen.

Solder
In my opinion there is only 2 types of solder worth exploring;

Harris Silv 56
Harris Silv 45

http://www.harrisproductsgroup.com/c...loys.asp?id=30

The best place to buy this product is at Humphries in American Fork or Spanish Fork. I buy Silv 56 rod without flux at about $40.00 for 5 sticks. It can be bought with flux, but I have never used it. Lance however says it works great!

So what one do we choose? If your using a Smith Torch, then get the Silv 45 as it's a little cheaper and has a slightly stronger overall finish. If your using the Benz torch, then get the Silv 56 as it will flow better at the lower temperature. Both types of solder are awsome and will work great.

Flux
I personaly use AllState No. 110 Blue Flux

It's a nice liquid that can be applied with an eye dropper for a precise application. It too can be purchased at Humphries for $7 - $10. There are pastes that are available, but there hard to apply and dry out easily. Save your money and get the liquid stuff.

3 Hands
These are the only third hands work a crap;

http://cgi.ebay.com/THIRD-HAND-BASE-...item414af0bfdb

You don't want the aligator clip types as they loose there tension when heat is applied, and nothing is more frustrating than having your work move after meticulously setting it up to be brazed.

2 of those third hands should be plenty. Mike at Destination Hobbies stocks them and there worth every penny.

That should get you started

kaetwo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-13-2011, 02:38 PM   #5
Pebble Pounder
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Boston
Posts: 131
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by kaetwo View Post
Check out this link

http://utrcrc.freeforums.org/k2-s-bl...zing-t369.html

Here are a few highlights;

Torch
There are several to choose from, but my two favorites are;

Smith Mini Torch - 23-1014

http://cgi.ebay.com/Smith-Little-Tor...item53de9b9702

Or visit http://www.smithequipment.com/

This torch is by far the best made mini torch on the market and works with Oxy/Propane or Oxy/MAPP Gass. It has replaceable tips, an 8' hose and comes with regulators for disposable tanks, available at Home Depot or Lowes.

My second choice is the bernzomatic TS7000 Auto Torch.

http://www.bernzomatic.com/PRODUCTS/...3/Default.aspx

It's super cheap and will fit the bill for just about any builder. It doesn't get as hot as the Smith torch, but it's pretty dang capable and the instant light feature is way convenient. This little guy uses MAPP or Propane without the need for Oxygen.

Solder
In my opinion there is only 2 types of solder worth exploring;

Harris Silv 56
Harris Silv 45

http://www.harrisproductsgroup.com/c...loys.asp?id=30

The best place to buy this product is at Humphries in American Fork or Spanish Fork. I buy Silv 56 rod without flux at about $40.00 for 5 sticks. It can be bought with flux, but I have never used it. Lance however says it works great!

So what one do we choose? If your using a Smith Torch, then get the Silv 45 as it's a little cheaper and has a slightly stronger overall finish. If your using the Benz torch, then get the Silv 56 as it will flow better at the lower temperature. Both types of solder are awsome and will work great.

Flux
I personaly use AllState No. 110 Blue Flux

It's a nice liquid that can be applied with an eye dropper for a precise application. It too can be purchased at Humphries for $7 - $10. There are pastes that are available, but there hard to apply and dry out easily. Save your money and get the liquid stuff.

3 Hands
These are the only third hands work a crap;

http://cgi.ebay.com/THIRD-HAND-BASE-...item414af0bfdb

You don't want the aligator clip types as they loose there tension when heat is applied, and nothing is more frustrating than having your work move after meticulously setting it up to be brazed.

2 of those third hands should be plenty. Mike at Destination Hobbies stocks them and there worth every penny.

That should get you started

your awesome, thanks a ton. can i get away with plain solder or brazing solder? i cannot find this rod locally, is there ANY substitute for the rod?
Lemonlegs28 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-13-2011, 04:40 PM   #6
I wanna be Dave
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Whales
Posts: 2,939
Default

Personally I would not waist my time with any other solder than Harris. Nothings is as smooth, strong or easier to work with.

Your welding supply store should be able to order it for you.

kaetwo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-13-2011, 07:22 PM   #7
Pebble Pounder
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Boston
Posts: 131
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by kaetwo View Post
Personally I would not waist my time with any other solder than Harris. Nothings is as smooth, strong or easier to work with.

Your welding supply store should be able to order it for you.

I have a small MIG welder also.. could i Weld stainless 3/16 brakeling? Im rookie bait, sorry
Lemonlegs28 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-13-2011, 08:47 PM   #8
Newbie
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 29
Default

The mig works good for stainless you just need stanless wire
bbad is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-14-2011, 05:25 AM   #9
Pebble Pounder
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Boston
Posts: 131
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by bbad View Post
The mig works good for stainless you just need stanless wire
Is it as simple as that? No special gasses, or anything? Just Stainless Wire? SWEET
Lemonlegs28 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-14-2011, 05:40 AM   #10
Newbie
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 29
Default

you need gas for the mig welder I havn't seen any flux core stainless wire.
But just the regular mig gas nothing special
bbad is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-14-2011, 12:35 PM   #11
Pebble Pounder
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Boston
Posts: 131
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by bbad View Post
you need gas for the mig welder I havn't seen any flux core stainless wire.
But just the regular mig gas nothing special
Sick, prolly gonna attempt it when my dad gets home then
Lemonlegs28 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-16-2011, 10:30 PM   #12
Rock Crawler
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Commiskey
Posts: 585
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lemonlegs28 View Post
Sick, prolly gonna attempt it when my dad gets home then
Remember to wear a mask anytime you braze/weld stainless, the smoke comming off it is toxic.
transambill is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-17-2011, 10:24 AM   #13
I wanna be Dave
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Whales
Posts: 2,939
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by transambill View Post
Remember to wear a mask anytime you braze/weld stainless, the smoke comming off it is toxic.
Excellent point!!!

What I do to help with this, is I have a fan blowing across my face to help move the fumes away, but wearing a mask is also a VERY smart thing to do. Eye protection is also a must

kaetwo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-17-2011, 10:59 AM   #14
I wanna be Dave
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: The beautiful Pacific Northwest
Posts: 6,923
Default

I've never heard of the fumes from stainless being toxic...is this new? I know galvanizing is dangerous.
War Pig is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-17-2011, 06:45 PM   #15
Rock Stacker
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Clemson
Posts: 67
Default

Some forms of chromium (main additive to stainless) can be carcinogenic, but only if they are vaporized. It has a melting point 600*F higher than steel, so you don't have to worry about fumes when brazing or gas welding. Just don't start blowing holes in stainless with a torch..

Arc welding could vaporize a small amount of the chromium. Scale building shouldn't release near enough to cause a problem. Same warning as with all welding: keep your head out of the fumes, and allow plenty of ventilation. The fan and/or mask can't hurt, but isn't strictly necessary.
vw_thing is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply




Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 05:21 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO ©2011, Crawlability, Inc.
Copyright 2004-2014 RCCrawler.com