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Old 07-22-2011, 03:35 PM   #1
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Default New Brazer needs help

Hi guys, I'm good with a wrench/ruler but need help on my brazing. I bought a custom steel frame from StangKillaSS and need to braze my cagework onto it. I've never brazed before, so I practiced on various pieces of sheet (16 and 20 gauge), 1/8 x 1/2" flat stock, and 3/16 tube and rod. With cheapo "silver-bearing" solder and a propane torch I can make good looking joints. I de-grease, strip down to bare metal, flux well, clamp, and braze. But when I use the Harris SafetySilv 45 rods, the rod just won't melt. I went back to the hardware store and got some yellow MAP gas tanks/cylinders, but it still isn't hot enough to melt the rod. The tube/stock/rod is blazing orange, but the harris solder still won't liquify, and the flux all dries/burns away. You guys make it look so easy, what am I missing???
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Old 07-22-2011, 03:56 PM   #2
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Are you just touching the end to the hot joint? That won't be enough to get it to flow. As you're reaching your desired temp, slowly start introducing the silver solder to the joint. This takes practice, but you should be getting the joint to the correct temp just as the solder is starting to melt in the flame.
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Old 07-22-2011, 04:11 PM   #3
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I can't seem to get anything hot enough to melt the solder (harris SafetySilv45). Even if I put the blue flame (from a yellow MAP canister) directly on the SS rod (just to see), it won't liqify.
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Old 07-22-2011, 04:16 PM   #4
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Even if you put the harris directly into the flame it does not melt? All I use is the same Map/pro tank that you describe.
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Old 07-22-2011, 04:26 PM   #5
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Yes, that's what's happening. With cheapo "silver-bearing" plumbing solder from ACE I can make nice looking joints no-problem. But with the same process using Harris rods everything burns up long before the solder rod starts to soften, and even when it DOES soften it Does Not liquify, just falls off in a short orange-hot turd, which never liquifies. Even if the flux has been overheated, and is no good, I would expect the solder to liquify at some point, but it does not. It's VERY hot in my no-AC shop, so I don't know WTF is wrong. Again, I'm totally new at brazing, but artistic and mechanically inclined. Maybe retarded too.

Last edited by Maxwedge; 07-22-2011 at 04:41 PM.
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Old 07-22-2011, 04:58 PM   #6
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One of the masters/moderaters in my local club is having me over tommorrow for some lessons, so hopefully I'll get the hang of it. Thanks for the help.
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Old 07-23-2011, 06:21 AM   #7
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Did you get the rite tip for the map gas cause the one for propane wont let the mapp get hot enough. I had the same problem and changed the tip and everything is better now.
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Old 07-23-2011, 07:31 AM   #8
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Thank you Onebdgti, I might go back to the store and get one. The guy in my club that can help me today though says he uses the same MAP/Pro pencil tip I have though.
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Old 07-23-2011, 01:37 PM   #9
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This is what I use. The TS4000. There are others out now, like the TS8000, that say they are 30% faster but I've had no problems with Silver Solder. I may check out the TS8000 though for the adjustable flame control knob.
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Old 07-23-2011, 03:55 PM   #10
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I solved the problem. I was using the wrong flux. Duh. Went over to another club member's workshop and showed him what I was doing. I had everything right except the flux. He gave me a little of his Harris stay-silv flux and now everything is great! Good looking, strong joints. I feel much better now, and thanks for the input guys.
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Old 07-23-2011, 08:56 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maxwedge View Post
I solved the problem. I was using the wrong flux. Duh. Went over to another club member's workshop and showed him what I was doing. I had everything right except the flux. He gave me a little of his Harris stay-silv flux and now everything is great! Good looking, strong joints. I feel much better now, and thanks for the input guys.

Do you have a picture of the right flux. We have been having the same issues as you. I use my Oxy/acet torch set and all I get is blobs and it will notflow out.
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Old 07-23-2011, 09:00 PM   #12
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Harris Stay-Silv works fine.


I have been rocking the TS4000 with the yellow MX bottle and it works fine
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Old 07-24-2011, 09:51 AM   #13
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Yeah that is what I'm using, the Harris Stay-Silv White flux. The plumbing flux I tried first would burn and dry off before the solder/steel got hot enough. The Harris flux goes from paste to foamy-looking, then a clear liquid right about the time the steel is hot enough. Works great. I don't know about Oxy-Acet though, I'm using Mapp gas w/ a Benzo. 4000 torch.
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Old 07-24-2011, 01:53 PM   #14
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When you get some more progress done post a build thread with pictures in the scale section.
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Old 07-24-2011, 02:37 PM   #15
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I will jmz6. This was my first thread- long time lurker, first time poster. I'm much more active on my home club's site EPArcc. I started brazing on 1/8" stock, and it went pretty well (once I got the right flux). Today I got 3 cage hoops brazed in (more later, gotta go to dinner with inlaws) and brazing the thin stuff (3/16 tube to 16g sheet) is SO easy. I was really scared before I got my torch- now I'm confident- and smiling.

I've been taking pics, and when I get a little farther I'll start a build thread. We have a G6 comp August 20/21 in Hope NJ, gotta get the buggy comp-ready!
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Old 07-24-2011, 07:21 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maxwedge View Post
I will jmz6. This was my first thread- long time lurker, first time poster. I'm much more active on my home club's site EPArcc. I started brazing on 1/8" stock, and it went pretty well (once I got the right flux). Today I got 3 cage hoops brazed in (more later, gotta go to dinner with inlaws) and brazing the thin stuff (3/16 tube to 16g sheet) is SO easy. I was really scared before I got my torch- now I'm confident- and smiling.

I've been taking pics, and when I get a little farther I'll start a build thread. We have a G6 comp August 20/21 in Hope NJ, gotta get the buggy comp-ready!

Glad you were able to get the hang of brazing, it is kind of addictive once you get the hang of it.

Sounds good..... Looking forward to seeing you there, I am also a member of eparccrawlers.com, you may know me by my username there.....
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Old 07-24-2011, 07:26 PM   #17
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What's your EPA name?
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Old 07-27-2011, 09:36 AM   #18
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maxwedge, thanks for all the help.
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Old 09-20-2011, 10:28 PM   #19
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Default stay-silv

that is what it took 4 me too. that si tha shiz i completed my rig in no time after i got that flux. right on
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Old 09-21-2011, 01:07 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by C*H*U*D View Post
This is what I use. The TS4000. There are others out now, like the TS8000, that say they are 30% faster but I've had no problems with Silver Solder. I may check out the TS8000 though for the adjustable flame control knob.
i have the TS8000 and i have to look at that adjustible flame control you speak of, cause i never seen any adjustment knob yet ...........bob

....
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