How To: Make your own links
 

Hey guys, was looking at vanquish, and ordered some parts for my wraith. the thing i was wondering is making my own links for my scx10's.

just want to confirm some info with the ppl who have done it. so it takes:

3/16 rod
10-24 die
traxxas part number 5347 revo rod ends.


that sound about right? thanks, just want to confirm before i buy anything, as ive searched and found a few different options.

will be making upper and lower links for both my scx10's, and steering links for my scx10 and my wraith.

i need to save as much money as i can! i have all the tools to do this kind of work, its just my first time giving it a go.

u can use derlin rod its super easy and can get all ur bends with a little heat. or try ur hand at sum ti links but id highly suggest a vise and a map gas tourch to get the bends u want with little effort. its really up to u what u can afford and feel cofident working with. either way is a good route"thumbsup"

I have used 8/32 all thread with the revo rod ends covered in macro line for a paintball gun. With the 8/32 you don't have to tap out your rod ends first just screw em in.

I used 8-32 all thread with 1/4 stainless steel tubing to sleeve it once I got the right lengths, you can also use 1/4 brake line but the stainless steel slides on the rocks better. I used revo rod ends part # 5347 and used an 8-32 tap to thread them. Super strong, havn't broken one yet. I built upper and lower links, and the whole steering assembly for my scx10 and my wraith.

Very simple. Very strong.

Follow this:
http://www.scalebuildersguild.com/fo...ad.php?t=13579
It's probably found on this site too, I just know this one off hand.

i use the straight part of pail handles that are .144" and thread them 6-32 and use dubro rod ends.........bob

....

i use 8/32 all thread, 1/4" aluminum tubing and traxxas rod ends just to confuse you some more!!! the materials i use come in 3ft lengths and are like 3-4 bucks. so i bought 3 lengths of tubing, about eight 1ft lengths of 8/32 all thread and 24 rod ends.. you'll use roughly 3ft of tubing and 3ft of all thread for each crawler. thats 4 linked rear and the 2 lower links on the front.


there's so many ways of making links its ridicolus. so write down all the possible materials from this thread onto a piece of paper take it into a store and buy what you can find.

I had the threaded rod setup on my scx10 with brake line, but it snapped on me. Im going to run 3/16 rod, die it so it threads in to the revo ends, and cann it a day. just wanted to double check those numbers made sense. when running 400 oz-in, i need something that wont break. threaded rod bent like rubber.

gonna try and find some rod, and go from there.

i have derlin for my esc mounting plate, but id never use it for links. id twist it in seconds.

hmmm interesting. i've pounded my steering link against rocks and never had a problem.

Here is my take on the links. Its a 1.9 scaler that weighs 7.5 pounds.

My original links were 6/32 all thread with a 3/16 aluminum tube as a sleve. They bent the first time out.
http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u...r/P1060912.jpg

My new links will require some new materials.

Material List
6/32 all thread
6/32 tap
3/16 brake line
Traxxas #2742 Rod Ends
Tube cutter

First I had to figure the length of my all thread pieces. Figured out how deep I ran my tap and also how deep the rod end would thread. Together I came to 18mm. I cut mine with a Dremel disc.
http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u...r/P1060923.jpg

Cut your tube to length (make sure to consider your rod end lengths). Run your tap in both ends.

Take your rod end and run the tap into it as well. Thread your rod end onto your all thead and then into the tube. You need to be very precise on your tube lengths since you want these snug and tight to eliminate any slop.
http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u...r/P1060916.jpg

Side by side example
http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u...r/P1060914.jpg

On the rig
http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u...r/P1060919.jpg
http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u...r/P1060920.jpg
http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u...r/P1060921.jpg
Did my steering too while I was at it.
http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u...r/P1060918.jpg

I havent bent the new links running yet. I do have to say that all my links are short. I have even hit the tierod hard and it hasnt bent yet.

One good smack and you'll be sure to bend that steering link. Brake line bends to easy.

im not talking about bending the tubing, im talking about bending the all thread. my alum tubing is beat to shit but i pulled it apart cut a piece of 1/4" all thread slowly tapped it through the tube with a hammer about an inch, pulled it out and repeated the process... straightens out the tube pretty good!!!!

edit: damn dont have a good picture showing my tie-rod link. i'll get one though.

my scx10 had the all thread and brake line at the websters meet. tumble down the big hill and it snapped it like a pencil.

got a tap and die set i can use... now for rod and a revo end set.

I've been using 1/4" Solid Alum and using a drill bushing That I made on the lathe to center my taps for 3mm All Thread.

Now I have 5/16" Solid Delrin and not sure if I like the Alum or the Delrin.

Was your "allthread" running all th way though the brake line? Or was it tapped into each end? Cause I can see that snapping.

use 8/32 not 6/32.

this is 8/32 with stainless sleeving compared to stock links
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/u...Comparison.jpg

When I wanted to put a bend in a steering link I had to use a hydraulic jack against the frame of my real 1:1 truck in order to bend it.

all the way through.

This is my preferred method as well, but I like Jato rod ends for the longer engagement of the threads.

I do run Delrin lower links on my SCX, but don't do it with anything smaller than 5/16". I have 5/16" and have bent lower links in binds before.

Just curious, but have you run this truck for very long? I was wondering how strong those lower link mounts on the axle are, with the rod end just being bolted to one tab. Since you are on the insides of both tabs, wouldn't it be stronger if you ran the bolt through both, and used a spacer to take up the space where the shock used to be?

Not like that. Those are mock up pics. Easy to move from inside to outside to get a slightly better pinion angle without making new links. I put a spacer in and run a bolt all the way through both mounts once I got it set.

Mud Puppy- I would use the 8/32 but it makes all my links look way too oversized. This is not a KOH rig or TTC rig. I built it to match what would be a daily driver/trail rig. My next project will represent a TTC tube style jeep. Everything will beef up. At that point the 8/32 will fit right in.

More food for thought.
In a bad tumble or bind something will always be a weak link. Not saying it has to actually be weak but things will always break or give. I dont mind broken links because you can make multiples and have them ready to swap out on the trail. But if you break an axle mount.....your day is toast. Or say a steering knuckle? Its just my thinking. Same reason in my drivetrain I leave my driveshafts to snap first. Saves big money and time. Just my opinion.

i see what your saying Propane.. i swapped my plastic knuckles out for alum and kept the plastic ones as spares so i can swap out on the trail if i had to. but if i snap a c-hub im done for the day because they are plastic still and havent upgraded them yet.

i personally went the 8/32 route because i dont carry spare links with me on the trail. i've never bent the all thread...yet... but i've beat the shit out of the tubing.. not worried if i do because i take a piece of 1/4" all thread and hammer it through the tubing and it straightens it just fine.

funny you mention oversize, looking at the comparison pics by mud puppy, the outer diameter of the sleeve is the same as the axial link. But, like you said, it may not be scale to your rig. Just food for thought.

This is what is great about DIY hobbies. Each person will have their own ideas of what is important and fitting based off of their experience. I agree my methods are not the "best or strongest" for all, but it fits my bill. Like all the work out there and always welcome debate and brainstorming. Hope not to piss anyone off!

:mrgreen:

This is 4mm all thread and 1/4" steel brake line with Traxxas revo rod ends tra5347 I think.
I feel they are the perfect size for looks and strength... And SOooo easy to make.Attachment 177856
Attachment 177857
Attachment 177858


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i still havent had time to get rod, but i do have the die set now. Waiting on my order from the LHS to come in before i go get revo ends.

i've made mine with 3/16 stainless and tapped to 10/24 and it's worked well, but you will blow through dies if you get the cheap ones. get a good quality die if you plan on doing it that way or you will hate your life. i wanted new uppers for my xr10 and while threading the 2nd end on the 2nd link, my die broke and it was brand new. so i just returned it and got some all thread to use until i can get some lunsford titanium links.

all thread
 

Use the all thread that is what everyone uses! buy, bend, screw in all done. Easy

used the same method here but used 1/4 inch stainless rod nice a slippy on the rocks made the front steering links with the same with a slight bend so it clears the diff at full lock to lock


http://i938.photobucket.com/albums/a...s/100_0047.jpg


http://i938.photobucket.com/albums/a...s/100_0039.jpg

easy yes... thats what i did. get some power to the driveline, those bend like spaghetti.

Beautiful. thats exactly what im looking to do. 1/4 inch eh? can you still use the 10/24 tap on that stuff?

Same as on my truck, looks like vanquish stuff ;)

8-32 allthread runs through the 1/4" stainless steel. So you an 8-32 tap for the rod ends.
Bending this stuff can be a b*tch if you bend it the wrong way lol

revo rod ends taped out the 10/24, 1/4 brake line and 10/24 all thread beeeeefy strong and will last long.

sorry but i used allthread and its junk. for any serious power like a 2s or 3s lipo brushless crawler, allthread will bend in half faster then you can see. if your running something basic, its the best way to beat plastic. but i want the rod ends to break before my links...8)

My truck links are built the same as scorpion_ax using stainless steel.
This is what I've been talking about.

Can you show me a pic of your broken links so I can understand what you mean about crap all thread? Like is it snapping between the rod ends and the sleeve?

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7002/6...699c5f6e64.jpg

no right in the middle. its bend and i bent it back to finish the trail ride. its all thread with i believe revo ends. dont remember as i made it a while back. they are strong, it took a tumble to bend it, but thats not strong enough for me.
http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/...t/b175e595.jpg

What is that sleeve material?

that sir is stainless brake line IIRC. dont remember the size, but it was a nice fit over the allthread.

That looks awful thin on the wall thickness to be a lower link sleeve.

I have never seen brake line that thin. Looks like the thin wall aluminum tube I have seen at the hardware store.

What size all thread are you using to have it buckle like that? You must have tiny threaded rod inside the brakeline.. I use 4mm all thread inside regular old 1/4 brakeline and it's really strong.. The 4mm just fits inside, no amount of slop to allow the brakeline to get squashed like that .. Once together with rod ends mine acts like one solid piece of steel.


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i dont remember. ive long since tossed the links, so i couldnt even go back and tell ya. i was going to order everything from VP, but when my upper links for my wraith came to $75 shipped, i said i think ill try making my own. it was brake line i got from napa. again dont remember any sizes, sorry.