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Old 08-12-2006, 03:27 PM   #1
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Default Need help with mill spindle taper

I have decided that for now, I will buy a Harbor Freight mill. I know that they are not the best, but grizzly and other companies basically make clones of this one for more $$. The question I had, is this mill- http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=47158
has an Mt2 spindle taper. Does this mean that it accepts this size of bits? If so, what shank diameter bits does it need to use? I have looked up on lathes and mills, but have basically no hands-on exp. I greatly appreciate you guy's input. Happy crawling to all-the clodfather
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Old 08-13-2006, 06:30 AM   #2
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MT 2 Is Morse Taper #2 I belive I hope this helps
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Old 08-13-2006, 10:29 AM   #3
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I was looking on the net the day b4 yest., and found out the Morse deal. But, I was wanted to find out what shank size bits I can use on it, like 3/8 inch, or which other one(s). Thanks.
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Old 08-13-2006, 03:41 PM   #4
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John,
In the collet set for a (MT2) Morse Taper #2, the 1/2" or .500" diameter is the largest diameter tool one can use. Not as large a capacity a an MT3 or R8. The Myford lathe from England uses this spindle taper. Excellent lathe by the way. As long as you don't take heavy cuts when milling somehthing you should be fine. You will be limited by how ridgid the mill is anyway.

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Old 08-13-2006, 04:34 PM   #5
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John,

Until I actually got my own mill and lathe, I was very confused on terms. The MT2 taper is basically what limits/ determines the tools that will fit into the mill spindle. You can get drill type chucks, or collets to hold your tools. They have to be the MT2 taper to work. A drawbar the tool holders in place, it is basically a long screw that hangs down the spindle.
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Old 08-14-2006, 06:56 PM   #6
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Cool, thanks for the help everybody. I knew I could count on you all .
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Old 08-14-2006, 07:37 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnrobholmes
A drawbar the tool holders in place, it is basically a long screw that hangs down the spindle.

Should read: A drawbar HOLDS the tool holder in place,
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Old 08-16-2006, 06:48 PM   #8
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Double check to make sure it will take collets.The specs say it will take up to a 25/64 bit but doesn't say anything about collets unless I've drank too much and didn't notice it.
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Old 08-20-2006, 08:49 PM   #9
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Just get a MT2 adaptor to suit a 1/2" drill chuck. Get a good quality keyless one and it will last years.

This is what you want. This one is here in Australia, but it will show u anyhow.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/1mm-13mm-PREC...QQcmdZViewItem

Hope that helps.

Brad..
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Old 08-25-2006, 10:11 PM   #10
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That looks nice. Thanks, Brad. Hows the rock-crawling in Australia?
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Old 08-29-2006, 06:29 AM   #11
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No probs.

Crawlin here not bad, there are probably 50 or so down here, I have only been doing it since the start of this year, and have now completed a half dozen different chassis forms. I'm currently working on a full carbon Clod
stick, and I have a tuber that will become a shafty when the funds allow.

Cheers, Brad.
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Old 08-29-2006, 06:47 AM   #12
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Don't try to hold an endmill in a drill chuck. Too much runout in a chuck.

Endmills are best held in a collet or an endmill holder. MT2 collets should be around. Try littlemachineshop online, they've got a bunch of stuff for the mini-mills.

Don't forget a fly cutter. Ideal for large flat surfaces.
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Old 08-29-2006, 08:06 PM   #13
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Ill keep that in mind. BTW is runout kind of like play, or unsteady, etc? Thanks for your assistance, guys, youve been a huge help in letting me know what to do/not to do.. This is what I like to see on rccrawler.com(helping others out, being kind towards those who dont know -like me-), not unrelated flaming.
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Old 08-29-2006, 08:42 PM   #14
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Runnout is the amount off center the bit spins. With an endmill your talking about .001" cut per tooth... If you have .002" runout, your only cutting with on tooth of the bit and your performance will suck.
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Old 08-29-2006, 09:30 PM   #15
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I see, thanks.
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