| |
08-26-2006, 01:06 AM
| #1 |
| Rock Crawler   Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Alabama
Posts: 564
|  Tap and Die kit?????
Anyone know how to use these. I am gonna make my own links using solid steel. It would be stronger than aluminum and threaded rod I think. I just need to know how to use the thing. Its got no directions with it. I was pist. But hey I am sure yall know. Any links would be nice to. I am wanting to tap down to 4-40 threads
|
|  |
| Sponsored Links | |
| | |
|
08-26-2006, 01:27 AM
| #2 |
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: DH
Posts: 406
|
This might help> www.wsavts.org/machine/machine3.htm |
|
| |
|
08-26-2006, 11:40 AM
| #3 |
| Rock Crawler Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Alabama
Posts: 564
|
Thanks that might help me a little bit. I aint sure though. I will pay attention to that movie a little better later tonight.
|
|
| |
|
08-26-2006, 11:55 AM
| #4 |
| 2006 2.2 National Champ   Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Big Bear Lake
Posts: 8,328
|
What axles are you using? 4-40 is really small, .110 diameter, I'd go bigger. 6-32 or 8-32 would be a better choice. 6-32 is .135 diameter, 8-32 is around .160 if I remember right. So, you need stock that diameter if you don't have a lathe. Oil the material, preferably with a cutting oil. The die itself should have a "lead" on it. The threads should start small and get bigger near the "back" if the die. If it's backwards, it won't work unless you're on roids or superman.  That video is a little crued/vague, but works for a visual. |
|
| |
|
08-26-2006, 12:17 PM
| #5 | |
| I wanna be Dave Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: FLAGSTAFF
Posts: 3,728
| Quote:
actually under testing pam spray coating (for cooking) works much better and resists friction 2 times beter than cutting oil. and smells like butter! | |
|
| |
|
08-26-2006, 12:19 PM
| #6 |
| Rock Crawler Join Date: May 2005 Location: In front of my comp
Posts: 836
|
No ****, didn't think that would work!
|
|
| |
|
08-26-2006, 03:48 PM
| #7 |
| Rock Crawler Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Alabama
Posts: 564
|
Thanks Bender. I am using the jugg axels. i have some link already done for it with the threaded rod and the tubing. I think its pretty strong. But with just the steel rod I am gonna have to go with 6-32 cause the 4-40 is to small it just bends easy. I am gonna try and cut some stuff later this week. Not in a big hurry right now. Alright here is what i need the most help with. If I am wanting to cut rod at 6-32 should I get rod that is 6-32? Would that be right or is that not the right size, meaning do i need a bigger size in order to cut it down to 6-32. Same with 4-40 and 8-32. Also are there rod ends that will fit the 6-32,8-32? Thanks for the help guys, after I get these mad I will post some pictures.
|
|
| |
|
08-26-2006, 05:53 PM
| #8 | |
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: DH
Posts: 406
| Quote:
True..., But Thats the only one I could find  | |
|
| |
|
08-26-2006, 07:00 PM
| #9 |
| 2006 2.2 National Champ Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Big Bear Lake
Posts: 8,328
|
You do want rod that is the same diameter as a 6-32 tap or threaded rod. If it's bigger it'll be really tough to run the die over.
|
|
| |
|
08-26-2006, 09:02 PM
| #10 |
| Rock Crawler Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Longmont, CO
Posts: 901
|
6-32 nominal is .138" 8-32 is .164" 10-32 is .190 1/4-20 is .250 Those are the size rod you need to die threads on... My point is I don't think you'll find rod that size (except 1/4" and 10 (3/16 is .188 which is close enough for .190) Most people tap the thread and screw in a stud to make the male thread for the ball end... This turns out to be stronger anyway. I once turned down 3/16 tool steel to 6-32 male thread for links. The thread broke very easily. I replaced it with a female 6-32 and stud and it was much stronger. If your set on dieing threads for links, you might have better luck with metric sizes... M3x.5mm you could die on 3mm round stock. M4x.7mm you could die on 4mm stock... |
|
| |
|
08-27-2006, 09:03 AM
| #11 |
| Rock Crawler Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Alabama
Posts: 564
|
Thanks for the help fellas. I just am wanting to give this a try consdiering the dye kit is just sitting there right now. So They may or may not work, if they do great, if not oh-well.
|
|
| |
|
08-27-2006, 05:51 PM
| #12 |
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: DH
Posts: 406
|
What Brand tap & dye kit do you have? Cause I've notice some cheaper brands out there doesn't work so well. I've got a kit from snap-on tools and so far they're pretty solid.
|
|
| |
|
08-27-2006, 06:01 PM
| #13 |
| Rock Crawler Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Alabama
Posts: 564
|
To be honest with it I aint sure. Grandad had it so I have no clue.
|
|
| |
|
08-28-2006, 02:00 AM
| #14 |
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: DH
Posts: 406
| 
Wow, Must be a great set, passed on from generation to the next generation.
|
|
| |
|
08-28-2006, 08:34 PM
| #15 |
| Rock Crawler Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Alabama
Posts: 564
|
Naw I aint sure if its nice or not. I think he only used it a couple times. It looks like a cheaper one. But I have no idea. But if it worked for him then it will for me. lol. I will play with it more after work 2-marrow. School, work, work, and more school. RUFF for me right now. Its kind of cool that it was his and now I have it considering he is gone.
|
|
| |
|
09-18-2006, 08:32 PM
| #16 |
| Newbie Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: E
Posts: 2
|
just finnished links for my TLT. Fastenal has everything (but rod ends) 4ft of 1/4 alum. PPHMS8-32X1Z -- 100 machine screws 8-23 1in long HSS SP TAP 8-23 -- High Speed Steel 8-23 tap Also purchased a Drill bit LHS had Traxxas Revo rod ends, no drilling just run the tap in them and they fit the screws perfectly (no drilling) the revo ends are the same OD as the alum rod, for a clean fit. I was a sissy and used my Lathe. drill centers, tap, screw in the machine screws, cut head off, and screw on the revo rod ends spent $9 at Fastenal and $18 at LHS (2 bags of rod ends) Tommy |
|
| |
 |
| |
Linear Mode
