12-09-2006, 08:40 PM
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#21 |
I wanna be Dave
Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: FLAGSTAFF
Posts: 3,728
| Quote:
Originally Posted by Robb edit: this post won't make sense, since the post before it was deleted
I would have to disagree with your welder friend. And I mean this in all honesty, not just being a PITA as usual. I have worked with both these materials, and can tell you, they are night and day apart from each other.
The durafix rods are sold under many names, and the ones I have are of another name, but they are all the same thing. I bought mine at a gun show, and have seen the identical product at many gun and car shows. Durafix is sold as +/- 1/8" rods, whereas the 1070 is sold as a much thinner material, and sold in spools. The 1070 is NOT one of the rods that you see at the shows.
The durafix rods melt under a much lower temp than the 1070 , and is no where near as strong. Durafix is a very strong filler, and I will give it props for that. I have used the 1070 in creating strong joints, then used the durafix on top of that to fill in the gaps (left from the shrinkage of the 1070). The fact that the 1070 melts at a higher temp makes it also much more difficult to work with. You have to work right at the 1100-1200* line at which to melt the 1070 and the point at which the original material melts. It is a very tedious process, and one that is easy to screw up.
I will leave an easy challenge. I will pay shipping for anyone to send me two aluminum pieces "bonded" with Durafix (or offbrand), and on video, I will record myself trying to break that bond with my hands, and then post that video here on RCC. I will then post a vid of me trying to break a bond created with 1070. I will swear on my first child's grave (happy b-day Bryant) that I will treat each test equally. I would do both materials myself, but some would say that I didn't treat the Durafix properly, so I will entertain those created by others. |
deleted because I had the materials mixed my badd |
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