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-   -   3d printer for rc parts (http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/tools-procedures/592226-3d-printer-rc-parts.html)

k7zpj 01-21-2020 07:39 PM
Re: 3d printer for rc parts
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by JatoTheRipper (Post 5992237)
My Prusa i3 was not delivered today. The DHL driver must have decided he didn't feel like working a full day. We got a couple of inches of snow on Sunday. The roads were clear Sunday night and today they were also clear and we didn't get a single drop of precipitation. But the driver claims he couldn't deliver them due to the weather. The "official" response on the tracking is:

"The shipment is being held and not expected to be moved or delivered on time due to a Force Majeure event with Weather." LOL WUT? Clear roads must be a bitch to navigate for DHL. It seems more like they didn't want to deliver just because it's DHL. Typical from what I hear.

They'll "try again" tomorrow.

Does the DHL tracking system show where the package is actually located?
Their exception messages leave a lot of info out. Would be nice to know if it actually cleared customs in the US and is in your local area.


My MK3 took two weeks for DHL to deliver it. Most of the time stuck in the customs office but with exception messages that made it seem it coming tomorrow.

JatoTheRipper 01-21-2020 08:29 PM
Re: 3d printer for rc parts
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by k7zpj (Post 5992529)
Does the DHL tracking system show where the package is actually located?
Their exception messages leave a lot of info out. Would be nice to know if it actually cleared customs in the US and is in your local area.


My MK3 took two weeks for DHL to deliver it. Most of the time stuck in the customs office but with exception messages that made it seem it coming tomorrow.

Yes, it came from Harrisburg. I did receive it today.

k7zpj 01-21-2020 08:56 PM
Re: 3d printer for rc parts
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by JatoTheRipper (Post 5992539)
Yes, it came from Harrisburg. I did receive it today.
Great. ;-)

Remember to correctly use the included Haribos.


<iframe src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/x6O-RI2eIzc" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen="" width="560" height="315" frameborder="0"></iframe>

JatoTheRipper 01-22-2020 07:22 AM
Re: 3d printer for rc parts
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by k7zpj (Post 5992543)
Great. ;-)

Remember to correctly use the included Haribos.
:lmao: technically I have been. I finished the Y-Axis step last night, but I realized the belt won't stay centered on the drive pulley or the idler pulley. The belt always moves against the side of the pulleys closest to the drive motor and I can't figure out why. So I have to play with this tonight. I have not eaten any Goldbears as of yet, but I technically haven't finished the Y-Axis step so I'm right on schedule with da bears.

k7zpj 01-22-2020 10:45 AM
Re: 3d printer for rc parts
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by JatoTheRipper (Post 5992589)
:lmao: technically I have been. I finished the Y-Axis step last night, but I realized the belt won't stay centered on the drive pulley or the idler pulley. The belt always moves against the side of the pulleys closest to the drive motor and I can't figure out why. So I have to play with this tonight. I have not eaten any Goldbears as of yet, but I technically haven't finished the Y-Axis step so I'm right on schedule with da bears.

Some things to try for the y-axis alignment issue:
  • Make sure the belt is inserted all the way into the belt tensioner and holder.
  • Start with the pulley real close to the motor. Use a business card between the pulley and motor.
  • Do the belt position on the pulley check with the bed in the center of the axis.
  • If the belts are above each other, but the belt is still too far to the left, move on to the next steps. The belt will stretch with initial use of a few hours and will make it easier to get the alignment right.
  • Last resort is to reverse the pulley. However, this make cause the XYZ calibration test to fail.
  • Once the self test has been run, a good target for the belt tension numbers is between 270 and 280.

JatoTheRipper 01-22-2020 02:04 PM
Re: 3d printer for rc parts
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by k7zpj (Post 5992643)
Some things to try for the y-axis alignment issue:
  • Make sure the belt is inserted all the way into the belt tensioner and holder.
  • Start with the pulley real close to the motor. Use a business card between the pulley and motor.
  • Do the belt position on the pulley check with the bed in the center of the axis.
  • If the belts are above each other, but the belt is still too far to the left, move on to the next steps. The belt will stretch with initial use of a few hours and will make it easier to get the alignment right.
  • Last resort is to reverse the pulley. However, this make cause the XYZ calibration test to fail.
  • Once the self test has been run, a good target for the belt tension numbers is between 270 and 280.
Great tips! Thank you.

I've been racking my brain on and off all day while and work and I believe your first point is my problem if one exists. Getting the belt into the holders is a PITA! I thought mine were seated all the way, but I'm going to double check tonight.

mikemcE 01-22-2020 03:57 PM
3d printer for rc parts
 
After this, I’m so happy with my new Creality, 6 bolts was the scope of my build for 299, and hasn’t failed yet.
First parts I did were the VS4 braces.
In HTPLA


Hang up and Drive

JatoTheRipper 01-22-2020 04:31 PM
Re: 3d printer for rc parts
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by mikemcE (Post 5992724)
After this, I’m so happy with my new Creality, 6 bolts was the scope of my build for 299, and hasn’t failed yet.
First parts I did were the VS4 braces.
In HTPLA


Hang up and Drive
I'm not even sure if it is an issue or if I'm just being anal. The belt tracks perfectly straight. It's just offset to the one side of the pulleys. I'm not familiar enough with the printer to determine if it's an issue. I'll get back to you when it's built.

I'm willing to deal with a small headache or two during the built in order to end up with the print quality and reliability the Prusas are known for. And if I do have an issue their customer service is known for being as good as it gets. I'm still confident I made the right decision.

JatoTheRipper 01-24-2020 05:59 AM
Re: 3d printer for rc parts
 
Tada!

http://i.imgur.com/DfsGP0qh.jpg

gsgraber92 01-24-2020 06:02 AM
Re: 3d printer for rc parts
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by JatoTheRipper (Post 5993087)


Yay! That’s awesome. Now let’s see some cool parts!!!
What did you think of the build?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

k7zpj 01-24-2020 11:12 AM
Re: 3d printer for rc parts
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by JatoTheRipper (Post 5993087)
Tada!

Looking good.

How did the self test go for skew and belt tension?

JatoTheRipper 01-24-2020 12:45 PM
Re: 3d printer for rc parts
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by k7zpj (Post 5993177)
Looking good.

How did the self test go for skew and belt tension?
I didn't see anything about skew or belt tension in the initial setup. Are you speaking about subsequent tests? If so I'll try to run those tonight.

k7zpj 01-24-2020 01:52 PM
Re: 3d printer for rc parts
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by JatoTheRipper (Post 5993200)
I didn't see anything about skew or belt tension in the initial setup. Are you speaking about subsequent tests? If so I'll try to run those tonight.

The skew is part of the XYZ calibration test results.
Menu path to see it on the LCD: [Support] [XYZ calibration detail]


The Belt status is part of the self-test.
Menu path to see it on the LCD: [Support] [Belt status]

JatoTheRipper 01-24-2020 04:17 PM
Re: 3d printer for rc parts
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by k7zpj (Post 5993228)
The skew is part of the XYZ calibration test results.
Menu path to see it on the LCD: [Support] [XYZ calibration detail]


The Belt status is part of the self-test.
Menu path to see it on the LCD: [Support] [Belt status]
Measured skew: 0.06 degrees
Left: 0.12 degrees
Severe skew: 0.25 degrees

Belt status
X: 258
Y: 275

What’s that all mean?

k7zpj 01-24-2020 05:10 PM
Re: 3d printer for rc parts
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by JatoTheRipper (Post 5993255)
Measured skew: 0.06 degrees
Left: 0.12 degrees
Severe skew: 0.25 degrees

Belt status
X: 258
Y: 275

What’s that all mean?
The skew is how far off the x-axis is from being perpendicular to the y-axis.
0.06 is good. Link to more details: https://help.prusa3d.com/article/PBl...ration-details

The belt status is an indirect measure of how tight the belts are. It is actually how much current the stepper driver needs to move the axis. It is a relative number ( no specific units)

Prusa states the ok range is between 300 to 240. (lower number means tighter) However, most people find between 280 to 270 the ideal range. Your x-axis tension may be a little tight.

Remember for future troubleshooting on a printer with lots of hours, the belt status number being low can also be a bearing that is not moving smoothly.

Hope this all helps. Let me know if you have more questions.

JatoTheRipper 01-24-2020 06:41 PM
Re: 3d printer for rc parts
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by k7zpj (Post 5993266)
The skew is how far off the x-axis is from being perpendicular to the y-axis.
0.06 is good. Link to more details: https://help.prusa3d.com/article/PBl...ration-details

The belt status is an indirect measure of how tight the belts are. It is actually how much current the stepper driver needs to move the axis. It is a relative number ( no specific units)

Prusa states the ok range is between 300 to 240. (lower number means tighter) However, most people find between 280 to 270 the ideal range. Your x-axis tension may be a little tight.

Remember for future troubleshooting on a printer with lots of hours, the belt status number being low can also be a bearing that is not moving smoothly.

Hope this all helps. Let me know if you have more questions.
Thanks a ton! You've been very helpful and I appreciate the offer to help! "thumbsup"

First print without doing anything other than setting the Z height. I did have problems getting PLA to stick to the textured plate so I switched to smooth/steel and my current Z height is at -.500 which seems high compared to Josef's recommendation of -1.000 on his YouTube video.

http://i.imgur.com/e0mmCIJh.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/KmaCc9mh.jpg

k7zpj 01-24-2020 07:10 PM
Re: 3d printer for rc parts
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by JatoTheRipper (Post 5993283)
Thanks a ton! You've been very helpful and I appreciate the offer to help! "thumbsup"

First print without doing anything other than setting the Z height. I did have problems getting PLA to stick to the textured plate so I switched to smooth/steel and my current Z height is at -.500 which seems high compared to Josef's recommendation of -1.000 on his YouTube video.
The prints look good.

Your Pinda probe is set just a little bit too low, that can cause some issues down the road. I would try raising it a thread and then rerun the first layer calibration.

A good range is between -.750 and -1.0 for the smooth sheets. My mine are running about -.800 for the smooth sheets and -1.1 for the textured sheets.

JatoTheRipper 01-24-2020 07:47 PM
Re: 3d printer for rc parts
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by k7zpj (Post 5993290)
The prints look good.

Your Pinda probe is set just a little bit too low, that can cause some issues down the road. I would try raising it a thread and then rerun the first layer calibration.

A good range is between -.750 and -1.0 for the smooth sheets. My mine are running about -.800 for the smooth sheets and -1.1 for the textured sheets.

What issues can a low PINDA cause?

k7zpj 01-24-2020 08:24 PM
Re: 3d printer for rc parts
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by JatoTheRipper (Post 5993300)
What issues can a low PINDA cause?

The symptoms of too low or too high pinda probe is having the first level calibration just change for no reason or having the nozzle take a hard dive into the bed.

This is due to the detection accuracy of the pinda probe not being linear. It is most accurate at the center of of the detection range (around -1,0 and is less accurate at the ends (0.0 and -2.5).

This is why Prusa recommends around -1.0 for the Pinda adjustment.

JatoTheRipper 04-02-2020 08:27 AM
Re: 3d printer for rc parts
 
I'm having another strange issue with my Prusa i3 MK3S. It seems to have suddenly went out of calibration. The first later lines were way too far apart. I did a First layer calibration and that was fine. I think did a Selftest and that's when I got this error. Any ideas?

http://i.imgur.com/WNO1YDxh.jpg


Belt status seems good.

http://i.imgur.com/ICxWBvSh.jpg


Current run time stats:

http://i.imgur.com/9mhCNJAh.jpg


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