Brake line brazing not working at all

[JoelTGM]

I followed instructions and got a maap gas and oxygen brazing torch and silver solder. I scuffed up the surface, applied flux, heated up the steel brake line until it was orange/red. The solder drips off it and will not stick at all. What could I be doing wrong? In the videos I've seen it looks so easy.

[JoelTGM]

I think wrong silver material. More research and calling a welding shop has led to silver brazing rod, which melts at higher temp. Okay here we go again.

[CODYBOY]

Originally Posted by JoelTGM

I think wrong silver material. More research and calling a welding shop has led to silver brazing rod, which melts at higher temp. Okay here we go again.

You need to be sure the joints are clean. I use Safety Silv 56 and flux that is made for this product. It sounds to me you are over heating your tubes. With this product you want the flux to turn from the white paste to what looks like flowing water. Then you apply your solder. If your metal gets to hot it will start oxidizing and the solder will not flow. If so, you need to stop re-clean the joint and start over. JMO
Ernie

[BigSki]

Any filler rod that has Tin in it is sensitive to too much heat, the filler material will basically "boil" and roll off of the tubing. I use silicon-bronze filler rod for brazing tubing but it take oxy-acetylene to get things hot enough to flow the filler.

[Mike Flea]

Originally Posted by CODYBOY

You need to be sure the joints are clean. I use Safety Silv 56 and flux that is made for this product. It sounds to me you are over heating your tubes. With this product you want the flux to turn from the white paste to what looks like flowing water. Then you apply your solder. If your metal gets to hot it will start oxidizing and the solder will not flow. If so, you need to stop re-clean the joint and start over. JMO
Ernie

Exactly. If you've purchased brakeline with the epoxy coating, you have to grind the epoxy off, make sure your joints are clean, fishmouth perpendicular joints, apply flux, heat to light red, touch your silver rod to the joint while still applying heat, but pull it back to regulate the heat. You want the sliver to flow into the joint, too much heat will make it drip off. Once you see the silver flow into and around the joint, pull the torch away.

[JoelTGM]

so it was the wrong solder. I got bronze brazing rod because that's all they had. Working great now. Hopefully it holds up.

[JoelTGM]

Okay that was tough. It's not cleaned up but I'm happy with it especially when I had no idea what I was doing and it took half the day to get the right equipment.

[Mike Flea]

It looks very good You did well, and with more practice you'll be building a rock jumper frame in no time!

[calcagno45]

Yep looks good!

[War Pig]

Silver solder is much better. You’re overheating the joint if you’re getting it orange hot. If you want to try silver solder again, clean the joint, apply flux, heat until the metal just starts to turn blue and the flux turns to a clear liquid. Pull heat back and feed silver solder into joint. It should wick into the joint. If you get the heat past the blue stage then you burn the flux off and the solder won’t flow into the joint. Don’t give up!

[cherokee95]

I second what War Pig said. I would like to add as I saw mentioned above, you need to clean the coating off of the tube. It's not only for good joints, the fumes are pretty damn toxic. I chuck the line up in my drill and run sandpaper up and down until all the coating is gone.

[hillbillyrc]

Originally Posted by War Pig

Silver solder is much better. You’re overheating the joint if you’re getting it orange hot. If you want to try silver solder again, clean the joint, apply flux, heat until the metal just starts to turn blue and the flux turns to a clear liquid. Pull heat back and feed silver solder into joint. It should wick into the joint. If you get the heat past the blue stage then you burn the flux off and the solder won’t flow into the joint. Don’t give up!

So far from my research and watching videos on brazing this has been the best explanation on how to go about brazing a joint.

[2mtech]

I'm old enough to be able to admit when something has gotten the best of me...brazing has. I can mig weld, which humbles me even further that brazing has eluded me.

Would one of you who has mastered the skill be willing to post links to the "right" brazing rod, solder and flux? I tried everything Tractor Supply has to offer after 52 YouTube videos and wound up only with crusty, ashen brake line (uncoated) and fire extinguisher residue on my bench.

Please & thank you

[hillbillyrc]

Harris safety-silver soider 56% and the corresponding flux to go with it. And a mapp gas/ oxy or oxy / acetylene
Torch set up. Is the going tools and materials people use. Lots on this topic here search
brazing www. Rccrawler. Com in Google lots pop up

[2mtech]

Originally Posted by hillbillyrc

Harris safety-silver soider 56% and the corresponding flux to go with it. And a mapp gas/ oxy or oxy / acetylene
Torch set up. Is the going tools and materials people use. Lots on this topic here search
brazing www. Rccrawler. Com in Google lots pop up

Thanks! I've found a good deal of information as to procedure, heat, material handling, optics...was just missing the important part where everyone said "use the right supplies".

I have the mapp/torch set up (and the burn scars on the bench to prove it)...just need to get the right supplies

And yeah, violated Rule #1, search more before asking.

[hillbillyrc]

I like to give short answers and a link or search term so one can get more information if they want to.

[Mike Flea]

Go to Airgas.com, there's several locations in your state, https://www.airgas.com/product/Weldi...ng/p/HAR56KPOP

[2mtech]

Originally Posted by Mike Flea

Go to Airgas.com, there's several locations in your state, https://www.airgas.com/product/Weldi...ng/p/HAR56KPOP

I kept seeing that pop up. Thanks!