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03-01-2008, 08:54 AM | #1 |
Rock Stacker Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Carbonear
Posts: 94
| j b weld + diffs = waste of time!!! jb weld sux... my diff chewed it up pullin through snow... i got a spooled diff in the rear and it always snaps cvds when i abuse it and the front has now an epoxy front diff .. what else can be used??? |
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03-01-2008, 09:02 AM | #2 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: May 2004 Location: delavan
Posts: 524
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i've had spools front and rear with stock maxx drive shafts with no problems i also used jb weld in another set of diffs again with no problems make sure all the lube is off the diff gears before you put jb weld in there or it will break free another method ive used is 2 small washers between the spider gears it work great and there removable
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03-01-2008, 09:09 AM | #3 |
~THE SCALE SHOP~ Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: KILLEEN TX
Posts: 10,056
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agreed, something was wrong, JB is extrememly strong. ive seen it used to fill holes in the combustion chamber of an engine without fail. clean the gears good, and make sure you get the proper mix and stir it well. im not sure what the shelf life of JB weld is. should be a long damn time so thats probly not the problem. |
03-01-2008, 09:53 AM | #4 |
Rock Stacker Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Carbonear
Posts: 94
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im not shure but i think the gears were pretty clean i usualy use a cleaner on everything first .. might of mixed it wrong .. iv been known to not pay attention form time to time b tw .. is their anything harder then the steel cvds??? |
03-01-2008, 09:54 AM | #5 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Pennsyltucky
Posts: 265
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Yeah cleanliness is the key!
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03-02-2008, 11:44 PM | #6 |
Newbie Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Bham,Alabama
Posts: 4
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is the mip steel cvd kits not strong enough? if your using cheap cvd kits then try the mip ones they have always held up great for me. I've seen ppl go the cheap way and put pipe around the stock maxx shafts and put two screws thorugh the center, seems it works well for them |
03-03-2008, 06:15 PM | #7 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Fort Worth! Need a Address??
Posts: 149
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I have traxxas spools f&r along with RD Logic alloy axles and driveshafts and havent had any issue.
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03-03-2008, 06:20 PM | #8 |
TEAM MODERATOR Join Date: May 2004 Location: Tennessee
Posts: 10,855
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I run CA glue in my diffs. Holds just fine under a 12 pound pig running a 3025-8 outrunner on 10 cells. Ditch your CVD's and run Revo shafts. |
03-03-2008, 06:28 PM | #9 |
owner, Holmes Hobbies LLC Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Volt up! Gear down!
Posts: 20,290
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The problem is that you didnt' fill the diff up enough. Even with dirty gears it should hold up. I packed my twin force axles years ago, ran big outrunners, never had a problem. Did you spin the gears a few times to get all of the bubbles out before closing it up? |
03-03-2008, 10:15 PM | #10 |
Rock Stacker Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Edmonton
Posts: 83
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Personally I'd just pick up a couple spools. JB weld isn't free either, and spools aren't expensive, the savings you get permanently destroying a diff isn't worth it IMO.
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03-04-2008, 07:17 AM | #11 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Fort Worth! Need a Address??
Posts: 149
| Much agreed. I can see a reason behind it on clods considering it is like $20 a diff to lock. The maxx are only $11 a piece and you dont have to worry about breaking ANYTHING in the diff. The $22 is good piece of mind IMHO
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03-04-2008, 07:41 AM | #12 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: May 2007 Location: Brenham, Tx
Posts: 495
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i use the 2 part epoxy in the syringe and it works great. gets in all the little cracks and crevices.
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03-25-2008, 06:02 PM | #13 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: portland
Posts: 138
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04-21-2008, 07:35 PM | #14 |
Newbie Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: canadian transplant eh!
Posts: 30
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and make sure you let it dry! if its not fully cured and you hammer on it it will pull through!
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04-26-2008, 07:22 PM | #15 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: In a tree top with my chainsaw!!
Posts: 476
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05-19-2008, 08:29 PM | #16 | |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Blanchard
Posts: 111
| Quote:
yup and not having to get ticked off when the jb weld doesnt work again! | |
05-22-2008, 12:34 PM | #17 |
Newbie Join Date: May 2008 Location: Marietta
Posts: 20
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your shaftsa re snapping becasue they dont flex like plastic shafts do. +1 to the 3.3 conversion.
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05-22-2008, 08:25 PM | #18 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Sierra Vista, Arizona
Posts: 271
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In my E-Maxx (non-crawler) I run THS Racing CVD's. They seem very strong, and I have yet to break or bend one.
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06-10-2008, 05:11 AM | #19 |
Winner of the '07 RCC dumbass award! Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Up on a Mountain, out in the Woods
Posts: 661
| Been twistin every steel shaft known to maxx-kind for years... Can't bring myself to plastic revo axles, so this is my solution to breaking axles! 1/4" Universal joint with a lifetime warrantee! (Steering joint) 6" long 1/4" extension (Axle shaft) Revo stub shaft, extension cut to length, milled down and drilled for cross pin... Pics when the tools (parts) get here. WC Last edited by WheelChair; 06-10-2008 at 05:13 AM. |
06-10-2008, 08:59 PM | #20 |
TEAM MODERATOR Join Date: May 2004 Location: Tennessee
Posts: 10,855
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Neat idea WC,I've tried simular in building drive shafts. To heavy,so I went back to Revo's. My supers always run all 1:8th scale buggy junk throughout the drivetrain. Bent,broke and twisted shafts...8mm stuff. Busted hardend steel gears,knuckles and diffs. My Revo's never skip a beat. Been running the same 2 Revo drive shafts for 2 years now. |
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