RCCrawler Forums

reydetejas · 03-14-2006, 01:57 PM

yes i bought a slipper clutch and wanted t know how to adjust it. the brand is robinson racing and it was a dual plate type, but the bearing didnt work s i had t buy the original part s i could have the hex type bolt. any help please. thanks
nick

CustomCrawler · 03-14-2006, 02:15 PM

Tighten it down as much as you can. Slippers are bad in crawling.

K_Willis · 03-14-2006, 02:17 PM

The should be tight but not locked completely. I'd rather have the slipper let go than break an axle or a drive shift. That's it's job.

Digger · 03-14-2006, 08:03 PM

The instructions that should have been included with the robinson slipper setup are pretty simple...

First, it says that to fit the bearing on the input shaft, you have to slightly round the edges of the hex with sandpaper, just enough for the bearing to slip on.

Then once it's all together, it says to tighten it down until the spring is compressed all the way, then back it off a 1/4 turn, then adjust it for the terrain/traction you'll be running on. This is fine for bashing, but for crawling you'll want it tighter for sure...

reydetejas · 03-15-2006, 01:19 AM

i appreciate the help, i bought this slipper ***. from someone off ebay and they didnt have the instructions. so for crawling i should just tighten it down, and basing loosen it up. also what if i lock the tranny in first will i still be able to bash. another question, i bought the spools for the front and rear diffs, will they be ok to bash with also?? thanks for your help.
nick

Automan · 03-15-2006, 04:25 AM

Lock the gear in first you wont go very fast, and using spools when jumping in high speed and big air will brake stuff.. spools are NOT for bashing, it's for crawling/trial driving. Sure you could bash with spools, but it will probably not have a happy ending.

Buying that racing slipp is a good thing, i have one with the steel 72t, and it looks nice, and you dont have to use those enoying small pegs anymore

But i cant say much, because i bought a new e-maxx a week ago or so, and the first thing i did was take it apart to build my project im working on right now... so i havent really felt how it was to drive a e-maxx, kinda funny that is

Atleast with my txt-1 i drove it 2-3times before i made all the mods for it and then some, it turned out ok. Now i want to see what i can do with the maxx axels and tranny

Reflection · 03-18-2006, 06:55 AM

I drill a hole through mine and run a bolt through the entire clutch. If your worried about breaking a gear or an axle,build it stronger

Running it like this on both our crawlers,I've yet to break after nearly a year of beating.

CustomCrawler · 03-18-2006, 06:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by raptorman57

I drill a hole through mine and run a bolt through the entire clutch. If your worried about breaking a gear or an axle,build it stronger

Running it like this on both our crawlers,I've yet to break after nearly a year of beating.

Exactly. I have a locked slipper and have yet to have problems. But I do have all revo driveshafts, hardened diff gears and a steel idler.

reydetejas · 03-19-2006, 09:04 AM

im going to do the revo knuckle swap and shafts, also will use revo shafts for driveshafts. and the slipper is a steel gear.

JohnRobHolmes · 03-19-2006, 09:21 AM

depending on your choice of motor, the slipper might be useful. If you ever go brushless, you will want a slipper to save your drivetrain. With a weak little lathe motor you dont have to worry about much breaking with a locked slipper, especially after a revo swap. Even a shorty outrunner will kill revo shafts though.

03-14-2006, 01:57 PM	#1
reydetejas Newbie Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Cypress Posts: 30	slipper clutch yes i bought a slipper clutch and wanted t know how to adjust it. the brand is robinson racing and it was a dual plate type, but the bearing didnt work s i had t buy the original part s i could have the hex type bolt. any help please. thanks nick

03-15-2006, 01:19 AM	#5
reydetejas Newbie Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Cypress Posts: 30	thanks i appreciate the help, i bought this slipper ***. from someone off ebay and they didnt have the instructions. so for crawling i should just tighten it down, and basing loosen it up. also what if i lock the tranny in first will i still be able to bash. another question, i bought the spools for the front and rear diffs, will they be ok to bash with also?? thanks for your help. nick

03-19-2006, 09:04 AM	#9
reydetejas Newbie Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Cypress Posts: 30	revo im going to do the revo knuckle swap and shafts, also will use revo shafts for driveshafts. and the slipper is a steel gear.

03-14-2006, 02:15 PM	#2
CustomCrawler Rock Crawler Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: SW, Connecticut Posts: 685	Tighten it down as much as you can. Slippers are bad in crawling.

03-14-2006, 02:17 PM	#3
K_Willis Quarry Creeper Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: The Great White North Posts: 465	The should be tight but not locked completely. I'd rather have the slipper let go than break an axle or a drive shift. That's it's job.

03-14-2006, 08:03 PM	#4
Digger Quarry Creeper Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: Southwestern PA Posts: 259	The instructions that should have been included with the robinson slipper setup are pretty simple... First, it says that to fit the bearing on the input shaft, you have to slightly round the edges of the hex with sandpaper, just enough for the bearing to slip on. Then once it's all together, it says to tighten it down until the spring is compressed all the way, then back it off a 1/4 turn, then adjust it for the terrain/traction you'll be running on. This is fine for bashing, but for crawling you'll want it tighter for sure...

03-15-2006, 04:25 AM	#6
Automan Pebble Pounder Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Sweden Posts: 101	Lock the gear in first you wont go very fast, and using spools when jumping in high speed and big air will brake stuff.. spools are NOT for bashing, it's for crawling/trial driving. Sure you could bash with spools, but it will probably not have a happy ending. Buying that racing slipp is a good thing, i have one with the steel 72t, and it looks nice, and you dont have to use those enoying small pegs anymore But i cant say much, because i bought a new e-maxx a week ago or so, and the first thing i did was take it apart to build my project im working on right now... so i havent really felt how it was to drive a e-maxx, kinda funny that is Atleast with my txt-1 i drove it 2-3times before i made all the mods for it and then some, it turned out ok. Now i want to see what i can do with the maxx axels and tranny

03-18-2006, 06:55 AM	#7
Reflection TEAM MODERATOR Join Date: May 2004 Location: Tennessee Posts: 10,855	I drill a hole through mine and run a bolt through the entire clutch. If your worried about breaking a gear or an axle,build it stronger Running it like this on both our crawlers,I've yet to break after nearly a year of beating.

03-19-2006, 09:21 AM	#10
JohnRobHolmes owner, Holmes Hobbies LLC Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Volt up! Gear down! Posts: 20,290	depending on your choice of motor, the slipper might be useful. If you ever go brushless, you will want a slipper to save your drivetrain. With a weak little lathe motor you dont have to worry about much breaking with a locked slipper, especially after a revo swap. Even a shorty outrunner will kill revo shafts though.

Sponsored Links

RCCrawler Forums

Thread: slipper clutch