Installing trans into Phoenix chassis, can't align

[BLUJEEP]

Hi all, I finally got my tranny together without much trouble. But when I went to put it into the chassis, I can't get the bottom hole in the skid plate to line up with the bottom hole of the motor plate.

The only way to get it to line up is to push down on the motor slightly, which seems to straighten up the motor plate and get the holes to align, but then the back end of the motor looks slightly crooked compared to the chassis and trans case. I was very careful to tighten everything in a cross pattern and just can't see why the holes aren't matching up.

I'm afraid if I run it this way I'm going to mess up some gears.



Not sure if this is clear, the back of the motor just seems slightly crooked after aligning the bottom holes and tightening it all down. The frame rail is at the bottom:



Thanks for looking.

[DirtMerchant]

This is a tricky part of the assembly. I had luck leaving all the screws loose until I was able to get a few threads of each to grab. Once each screw had some purchase I tightened them all down in a caddy-corner manner, sort of like tightening lugs on a wheel. The hardest for me was the one up front that also goes into the transmission cover.

[BLUJEEP]

Originally Posted by DirtMerchant

This is a tricky part of the assembly. I had luck leaving all the screws loose until I was able to get a few threads of each to grab. Once each screw had some purchase I tightened them all down in a caddy-corner manner, sort of like tightening lugs on a wheel. The hardest for me was the one up front that also goes into the transmission cover.

Thanks for the reply. This is pretty much what I did, multiple times. But the bottom skid plate/cover plate holes are so out of alignment there's no way to get that screw in properly. Even with everything loose, it goes in very crooked.

I've had a couple of other issues like this, seems like the tolerances are almost too tight and some of the plastic pieces didn't fit together properly. I guess I'll try again after I take a break to avoid frustration.

I was worried about putting the trans together, but that wasn't nearly as difficult as this

[2500hdon37s]

Take the screws from the top out. Start that one in the bottom first. Leave it loose, then get your top side screws in tightening each up a turn or two at a time until tight and then tighten the bottom one up.

I had the same fitment issue with the bottom screw, but done as I described it was pretty easy.

[BLUJEEP]

Originally Posted by 2500hdon37s

Take the screws from the top out. Start that one in the bottom first. Leave it loose, then get your top side screws in tightening each up a turn or two at a time until tight and then tighten the bottom one up.

I had the same fitment issue with the bottom screw, but done as I described it was pretty easy.

Thanks, I did this and it seemed to work as far as getting the bottom holes aligned and screw started straight. But after tightening everything down slowly, as described, the bottom holes get pulled out of alignment again, which, with the screw installed, pulls the motor down and it sits crooked. Not sure if it will cause a problem, but it just doesn't seem right.

I'm done for today. Between this and a couple of other issues, plus some unclear manual steps, I'm a little frustrated with this kit right now.

[Steven McKay]

Had the same problem in both my portal and straight axle. I'm leaving the screw out. Using the screw will bind the motor/tranny. Just leave it out.

[Steven McKay]

And if you insist on using it, I would widen the hole carefully so the hole in the skid matches the motor plate and use a washer if needed after installing motor/tranny. But I would just leave it out.

[Steven McKay]

If you do widen the hole install the skid screw LAST. Use a thin washer and you may have to use a different screw.

[BLUJEEP]

Originally Posted by Steven McKay

Had the same problem in both my portal and straight axle. I'm leaving the screw out. Using the screw will bind the motor/tranny. Just leave it out.

Thanks, good to know I'm not going crazy and it's actually a thing. I also thought about leaving the screw out, but I have the plastic motor plate and it can definitely flex, so maybe enlarging the hole might be better I don't know.

[Steven McKay]

Originally Posted by BLUJEEP

Thanks, good to know I'm not going crazy and it's actually a thing. I also thought about leaving the screw out, but I have the plastic motor plate and it can definitely flex, so maybe enlarging the hole might be better I don't know.

My Phoenix portal has a plastic motor plate and she be rolling just fine. BLUJEEP I sent you a PM

[Valor]

I think that's just the way they are. There was mention of it on YouTube from Blind Guy RC

[indybama]

It wont hurt to leave that screw out BLU. My portal phoenix is in a gspeed chassis with a vader skid n plastic motor plate. As i mentioned before, i run 4s only in it n have yet to have any issues. Itll backflip off trees n rocks n its taken a 60 ft drop off a cliff, n comes back for more. Just pretend that screw doesnt exsist brother

[indybama]

Heres a couple picks of mine. Gspeed v3 blue cf chassis, gspeed servo mounts, nsdrc micro servos with nsdrc micro servo apdater plates, mamba x with slate 2850kv motor,HH shv500v2 servo

Sent from my SM-A516V using Tapatalk

[BLUJEEP]

Originally Posted by Valor

I think that's just the way they are. There was mention of it on YouTube from Blind Guy RC

Okay, thanks. I was worried I did something wrong when putting the chassis together.

Originally Posted by indybama

It wont hurt to leave that screw out BLU. My portal phoenix is in a gspeed chassis with a vader skid n plastic motor plate. As i mentioned before, i run 4s only in it n have yet to have any issues. Itll backflip off trees n rocks n its taken a 60 ft drop off a cliff, n comes back for more. Just pretend that screw doesnt exsist brother

Wow, I'd call that a seal of approval. Thanks for the info! I'm putting it out of my mind and moving on.

[indybama]

Lol, no problem BLU, glad i could help

[Valor]

Quick question to those seasoned Vanquish owners...once it's installed and all the screws are set and tightened accordingly, does it make it easier moving forward when doing motor swaps or pinion gear changes?

[Steven McKay]

Originally Posted by Valor

Quick question to those seasoned Vanquish owners...once it's installed and all the screws are set and tightened accordingly, does it make it easier moving forward when doing motor swaps or pinion gear changes?

No, you'll have to pull the motor/tranny out. If you could remove or slide the cover over you might have a chance at the pinon but I don't think you can even do that.

[Steven McKay]

To get the motor/tranny out you'll need to remove the battery tray which means disconnecting the dig and possibly the od servo mount or at least disconnecting it too. Maybe something else I'm missing besides drive shafts. You might be able to work around not removing the shafts but it would be a pita.

[Valor]

Originally Posted by Steven McKay

No, you'll have to pull the motor/tranny out. If you could remove or slide the cover over you might have a chance at the pinon but I don't think you can even do that.

Oh of course. What I meant to say is does it make it easier to reinstall after having to fiddle with lining up the screws during the initial install/build.

[Steven McKay]

Originally Posted by Valor

Oh of course. What I meant to say is does it make it easier to reinstall after having to fiddle with lining up the screws during the initial install/build.

No, the only thing that makes it easier is having installed it before and having that experience.