My take on a Hammers...

[89redranger]

Just going to keep it short and get into the details and pics...

Traded my incomplete SCX10 project for this car knowing I was getting into another project. What a project it has been so far. It did come with RC3WD a-arms, sways bars, and either an Ascender trans with the TH motor plate, or Ascender metal gears in it. Not sure which, but it's definitely locked in low, full of metal gears, and HEAVY!

Mods/Repairs completed-

Installed Airtronics 94671 HV servo (water proof, fast transit speed, and 351oz @ 7.4!)

Ordered TLR1555 (23T) for the Airtronics servo and a TLR1556 (24T) for my backup Hitec just in case

Cleaned entire car, dusty again after sitting...

Replaced cage

Replaced AMF battery tray with new stock parts

New replacement shock towers

Dynamite stainless screw kit

Inspected, cleaned, and regreased both front and rear diff

Pulled stock trans (which is really an Ascender trans with a TH motor plate) to make room for an Axial trans

Pulled stock front shocks, broken top plate, and the severely mangled top plate upright in anticipation of coming Irie Products parts

Built SCX10 shocks to 85mm eye-eye with 2 AX10 o-rings as a soft bump, 35wt Losi oil and stock single rate Deadbolt springs, soft bump is at about 64mm, full stuff is about 62-63 depending on force applied, should help dampen the last tiny bit of travel

Stock rear shocks cleaned and re-oiled with Losi 35wt, Wraith RTR "purple" springs, and the same o-ring "soft bumps" as the front

Pulled the front sway bar

Used AX10 shock o-rings at upper trailing arm pivot balls to keep them from rotating, caused by the action of the rear sway bar


Still on the list-

Clean up the oily mess from me hitting all the CVDs and drive shafts with Marvels to get rid of the rust in them

Install Irie Products full bell crank steering conversion with shock tower

Install Axial trans with my adapter cradle/top plate support

Choose and install panels, interior, and lights

Boil Axial 1.9 Wild Peaks off the stock rims, get CI foams, and mount them on Axial beadlocks

Finish building my other Axial transmission

Lastly, electronics


And, on to the pics...

When I first got it. Only replaced the cage at this point. This is with the AMF rear battery tray. It had to go!







Tear down time!



The junk-



The goods-





Axial trans mockup-



Shocks-





The trans adapter cradle/top plate support I designed-









That's all for now.

[onecool54@yahoo]

Do you still have the 2spd transmission and have any plans to sell it?

[89redranger]

It's not a 2-speed, but I do still have it. It's either an Ascender trans with a TH motor plate, or Ascender gears in the TH case. It's not just a TH gear set locked in one gear either. Whoever did it like this knew what they were doing because they even used the correct shift rail plug and a full metal gear set. Shoot me a PM if you want. It needs a case though ($7...). The little pegs that were attached to the front upright by M2 screws were broken off in whatever collision caused the other damage. Otherwise, it's in awesome shape. I even re-greased it while I had it apart for autopsy.

[Natedog]

Originally Posted by 89redranger

Just going to keep it short and get into the details and pics...

Traded my incomplete SCX10 project for this car knowing I was getting into another project. What a project it has been so far. It did come with RC3WD a-arms, sways bars, and either an Ascender trans with the TH motor plate, or Ascender metal gears in it. Not sure which, but it's definitely locked in low, full of metal gears, and HEAVY!

Mods/Repairs completed-

Installed Airtronics 94671 HV servo (water proof, fast transit speed, and 351oz @ 7.4!)

Ordered TLR1555 (23T) for the Airtronics servo and a TLR1556 (24T) for my backup Hitec just in case

Cleaned entire car, dusty again after sitting...

Replaced cage

Replaced AMF battery tray with new stock parts

New replacement shock towers

Dynamite stainless screw kit

Inspected, cleaned, and regreased both front and rear diff

Pulled stock trans (which is really an Ascender trans with a TH motor plate) to make room for an Axial trans

Pulled stock front shocks, broken top plate, and the severely mangled top plate upright in anticipation of coming Irie Products parts

Built SCX10 shocks to 85mm eye-eye with 2 AX10 o-rings as a soft bump, 35wt Losi oil and stock single rate Deadbolt springs, soft bump is at about 64mm, full stuff is about 62-63 depending on force applied, should help dampen the last tiny bit of travel

Stock rear shocks cleaned and re-oiled with Losi 35wt, Wraith RTR "purple" springs, and the same o-ring "soft bumps" as the front

Pulled the front sway bar

Used AX10 shock o-rings at upper trailing arm pivot balls to keep them from rotating, caused by the action of the rear sway bar


Still on the list-

Clean up the oily mess from me hitting all the CVDs and drive shafts with Marvels to get rid of the rust in them

Install Irie Products full bell crank steering conversion with shock tower

Install Axial trans with my adapter cradle/top plate support

Choose and install panels, interior, and lights

Boil Axial 1.9 Wild Peaks off the stock rims, get CI foams, and mount them on Axial beadlocks

Finish building my other Axial transmission

Lastly, electronics

When I first got it. Only replaced the cage at this point. This is with the AMF rear battery tray. It had to go!


The trans adapter cradle/top plate support I designed-



That's all for now.

Wow, subscribed and loving that cradle adapter you designed. Why not just lock Vaterra trans in high with plastic gears to save weight? It's a much higher quality tighter tolerance tranny than any Axial. Or run the Vaterra tranny with steel gears for strength?

Is this going to be go fast, crawler or?

[89redranger]

Originally Posted by Natedog

Wow, subscribed and loving that cradle adapter you designed. Why not just lock Vaterra trans in high with plastic gears to save weight? It's a much higher quality tighter tolerance tranny than any Axial. Or run the Vaterra tranny with steel gears for strength?

Is this going to be go fast, crawler or?

Getting rid of the stock trans dumped quite a bit of weight, the Axial trans actually has less slop than the TH trans, and it freed up a lot of room in the chassis. It is also mechanically simpler, has a lot less rotating mass (inertia), and there are limitless 32P and 48P gearing options. One way or another I will fit a 3s pack in this car, and with the right gearing and motor combo, I should be able to gear it to crawl well AND carry a good pace. I'm building the car for faster stuff, and if I take a slight loss in crawling ability, so be it.

Thanks for the kind words though.

[Natedog]

Hmmm my Ascender tranny has way less axial and radial play in all the shafts than any of my Axial trannies. Sounds good.

[89redranger]

Originally Posted by Natedog

Hmmm my Ascender tranny has way less axial and radial play in all the shafts than any of my Axial trannies. Sounds good.

Stock versus stock, yes the TH's trans is tighter. Start doing things like adding aftermarket outdrives, music wire pins in the top shaft, loctite'ing the top gear and pin to the top shaft, and shimming the bearings though, and you end up with a tight compact bombproof little package. And yes, the same could be done for the Vaterra. Personal preference I guess..?

So, I agree with you to some degree, but I still favor the "idea" of using the Axial trans. Till it's in the car and running, it's all theory anyway. If I don't like it another TH trans will go back in. It's that simple. That's exactly why I designed the cradle/adapter to be a direct bolt-in with ZERO mods needed other than a longer front drive shaft.

[89redranger]

Whipped up some aluminum rear uppers and started on camber links. Tie rods and the camber links will have to wait till I can get more Revo ends, and the Irie steering kit so that I can get the length dialed in. 3/16" K&S aluminum rod, M5 threads, drilled (in two steps, first with a 5/32" bit, then an 11/64" bit) Revo ends, and a nice brushed finish. The extra beef is appreciated, but the weight loss was unexpected.





The three stages I go through to get to a finished product. Well, the "finished" link still needs one more pass with the scotchbrite pad, but you get the idea. Rough cut to length with hacksaw first. Then I crudely use the Dremel and drill to cut the ends flat, cut the stock to length, and cut a "start" on the end for my die to bite on. The I cut 10mm of threads on the end with my M5x0.8 tap and finish it by spinning it counter clockwise in my cordless drill while hitting it with a scotchbrite pad. This gives a nice "brushed" finish, but also cleans any burs in the threads up. The counter clockwise rotation is important so that the scotchbrite pad follows the threads when it get to the end, versus trying to go across them.





Installed and finished pics coming.

Let me know if you guys are interested in a full write-up or how-to on this style of link. I have quite a few pics that I took though out the process, and I'd be happy to share them with anybody wanting to give them a try. I've done them in the past with steel, stainless, and even 3/16"x0.049" K&S aluminum tube with the same process and tools every time. All of which are strong and reliable when using appropriate material for the span and load you're working with.

[CODYBOY]

Hey Brian, when you get to it, you're going to want to put 5mm spacers in betwween your rearend and the link mount. Looking good!

[89redranger]

While you're right about wanting more link separation, even the stock setups smacks the battery tray at full stuff. Who knows though, I may very well limit the rear shocks further (stock SCX10 rubber stoppers), and give it a try.

[Di_Spencer]

Originally Posted by 89redranger

The trans adapter cradle/top plate support I designed-








That's all for now.

Great idea with the cradle and replacing the top plate support. Your CAD skills are great. What CAD software did you use to make that and what how are you going to make one for your twin? CNC? 3d print?

[89redranger]

Originally Posted by Di_Spencer

Great idea with the cradle and replacing the top plate support. Your CAD skills are great. What CAD software did you use to make that and what how are you going to make one for your twin? CNC? 3d print?

Thanks for the compliments. I'm using Autodesk's Fusion 360, and the parts are being 3D printed by Shapeways in their strong and flexible nylon. No FDM printers for this guy.

[CODYBOY]

Originally Posted by 89redranger

While you're right about wanting more link separation, even the stock setups smacks the battery tray at full stuff. Who knows though, I may very well limit the rear shocks further (stock SCX10 rubber stoppers), and give it a try.

When you get your new steering and up right shock towers you can dump the rear battery mount and move your battery up front. Look at my build, will fit nicely.

[89redranger]

Irie Products steering kits showed up today. Two of them. One for my car, one for a buddy.

[CODYBOY]

Originally Posted by 89redranger

Irie Products steering kits showed up today. Two of them. One for my car, one for a buddy.

You kept your Icons.

[89redranger]

Yessir. For whatever reason I have really grown to like these shocks. Especially after owning a few sets of them now, and learning to build them with real dampening and no leaks. I built this set in an emulsion configuration without the bladders, but with the bleeder holes and AX10 o-rings. Butter smooth, awesome dampening, and they don't leak.

Wish they made the same shock with a longer body and shaft so I could build a set for the rear. I held them up to the rear, but even with Wraith shock ends (+3mm IIRC) they are a touch too short. Without limiters though, the travel would be usable. I actually think the rear has a bit too much travel anyhow. Maybe I'll whip up a new rear shock tower for short length shocks in the CAD program to print and try.

[CODYBOY]

Originally Posted by 89redranger

Yessir. For whatever reason I have really grown to like these shocks. Especially after owning a few sets of them now, and learning to build them with real dampening and no leaks. I built this set in an emulsion configuration without the bladders, but with the bleeder holes and AX10 o-rings. Butter smooth, awesome dampening, and they don't leak.

Wish they made the same shock with a longer body and shaft so I could build a set for the rear. I held them up to the rear, but even with Wraith shock ends (+3mm IIRC) they are a touch too short. Without limiters though, the travel would be usable. I actually think the rear has a bit too much travel anyhow. Maybe I'll whip up a new rear shock tower for short length shocks in the CAD program to print and try.

You could do the cap mod with rod ends. May get you the length you need.

[89redranger]

Originally Posted by CODYBOY

You could do the cap mod with rod ends. May get you the length you need.

You know, I never even thought of that. Thanks for bringing it up. You think the caps of these shocks have enough meat in them to hold up with the stock rod end socket cut off, and drilled for an M3? Cap mods are awesome with billet shock caps, but the plastic leaves me a little leery.

I got some extra caps around here somewhere. I shall return...

[HDMM]

Nice work on the TH, I'm seriously thinking about getting one of these kits.

[89redranger]

Originally Posted by HDMM

Nice work on the TH, I'm seriously thinking about getting one of these kits.

Thanks for the kind words. Keep your eyes peeled though, I got a lot more in store for this rig. Working on a gusset/girdle for the front upper camber links now in the CAD program, and rear shock towers and a battery tray later tonight.

I should have started with a fresh kit, but the price was right and I'm having a blast restoring and modding the car. Can't put a dollar value on grins...

CODYBOY- After playing with the other pair of Icons I managed to get combos measuring 101 and 105mm with varied Axial rod ends. I may actually be able to get a set on the rear after all. For whatever reason, I love these shocks, right down to the looks of them. The smaller body and springs look soooo much more appropriate on a car of this nature. The one thing to note though, the smaller bodies don't offer the same dampening a big bore does. If I had to guess, the Axials require about 10 point heavier oil in order to get the same dampening, which is to be expected of the smaller diameter piston.