Faster hammers

[theclimber]

Hi, I was aiming in the last month or two toward making my TH a crawling rig but then I decided of a pure rock racing rig, to be able to have a little bit of crawling but mainly speed, not to high of a speed, but enough to have fun
I was looking into the flash racing 10t motor and esc from hobbyking and I wonder how it is.
Also I was wondering how I should setup my rig to be able to handle better in turns with higher speed. I have the sway bar kit so I will install it, I may remove the front diff lock and change it to thick oil, what else should I do?

Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk

[Spunkybob]

Speed + hammers = "oh this isn't so baaaaaaaaaaaaddddddd!" *barely saves it rolling over down a cliff into a swamp with aligators filled with tears frn all the other twin hammers owners that tried before*

Definitely rear swaybar so it's good you have that, also look at getting Sr irie's open rear diff mod.

I have a 4350 kv sensorless brushless in mine and it's almost as fast as my slash but it's barely controllable.

Sent from my SM-N910G using Tapatalk

[smog]

I am likely in the minority, but I prefer running mine without a swaybar. I have a 10.5t brushless sensored in one of my TH and the other is a stock setup. Both have moderate speed. I find that having to slow down in turns makes the experience a bit more dynamic. It makes the play enjoyable for me

[Dbx]

I run a 3520kv motor, 2s.
Getting the battery down low helped mine a lot.
Bell crank steering made a huge difference too.
500k oil in the front diff.
Front and rear sway bars.
If you have the kit version, the tyre foams are really too soft for speed.
Mine is very manageable at speed now. Still will turn over easy on tarmac or grass, but pretty good everywhere else.

[Spunkybob]

Originally Posted by SMOG

I find that having to slow down in turns makes the experience a bit more dynamic. It makes the play enjoyable for me

I completely agree with this. It's a drivers car.. with my slash it's basically full throttle everywhere while with the hammers at speed you have to drive it with an underlying sense of "realism" and slow down, pick your lines, and don't just turn full lock straight away.

Also being a small (scale) truck it's a little more twitchy then the bigger ones.

Sent from my SM-N910G using Tapatalk

[Spunkybob]

Ps, the hammers runs at full droop at speed. Which is very different from everything else I have owned.

Which means, when you are going fast it's high center of gravity doesn't help. Then when you want to go slow and crawl it drops down low which alao doesn't help... seems it just wants to kick you in the go nads at every step.

It's like a puppy, it can't quite run properly and when it does it looks all wrong and uncomfortable. But in the end it's the best fun you can have and you keep.going back for more.

Sent from my SM-N910G using Tapatalk

[theclimber]

Originally Posted by Dbx

I run a 3520kv motor, 2s.
Getting the battery down low helped mine a lot.
Bell crank steering made a huge difference too.
500k oil in the front diff.
Front and rear sway bars.
If you have the kit version, the tyre foams are really too soft for speed.
Mine is very manageable at speed now. Still will turn over easy on tarmac or grass, but pretty good everywhere else.

Where to put the battery to lower it? I may buy the gcm shock tower so I will put it in the front.
What is bell crank steering?
I will change the locker I made for my front diff with 500k oil.
And I have the rtr, the first edition, but I also have the wheels and tires from my old cliff climber, I may use them for higher speeds, they are wider and harder from the original tires.

Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk

[Dbx]

Originally Posted by theclimber

Where to put the battery to lower it? I may buy the gcm shock tower so I will put it in the front.
What is bell crank steering?
I will change the locker I made for my front diff with 500k oil.
And I have the rtr, the first edition, but I also have the wheels and tires from my old cliff climber, I may use them for higher speeds, they are wider and harder from the original tires.

Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk

Bell crank steering has the steering tie rods driven on a pair of linked cranks, rather than the sliding rack that comes as standard. The sliding rack is ok in principle, but vaterra seemed to make the parts from glass filled nylon, which is a terrible bearing surface, so the steering sticks and jams under load. The bell cranks give you smoother more refined control, and more of your servo power goes to the wheels rather than getting stuck in the rack.
Irie does bell cranks that work really nicely with the gcm shock tower for a very reasonable price. If you look at my link below, i do a 3D printed set-up.

Battery up front must help reduce battery height, but i read on here that some people do not like the forward weight distribution. Getting the battery down in the tray is the best thing to do IMO.

[dbuus]

Hi Dbx.

I've looked at your "shop" and found Twin Hammers Steering Crank Pair (long) and Twin Hammers Steering Crank Pair (short).
What is the difference in addition to long and short? And what will be the difference in driving performance?

[Dbx]

Originally Posted by dbuus

Hi Dbx.

I've looked at your "shop" and found Twin Hammers Steering Crank Pair (long) and Twin Hammers Steering Crank Pair (short).
What is the difference in addition to long and short? And what will be the difference in driving performance?

Yes, the Shapeways setup is less than ideal - they inexplicably don't let you group products into sets. You'll need to look at the 'TH Steering and suspension upgrade' part and the 'TH bell crank steering' items. The cranks apply to these options.

[theclimber]

What about the motor? Anyone got to use a flash racing electronics?

Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk

[Turtlejon]

I put a holmes trail master brushless system in, and it was awesome. As long as it's a sensored system, it should be OK.
I would normally never run heavy wheels, but after beefing up the TH and putting the brushless power into it, the heavy wheels made it super easy to flip it back over. It really does flip a lot at speed, and being able to get it back upright with the throttle really helped.
I also ran a dual battery setup with a 1200 up in front, and another 1200 in the stock location. The balance was perfect, and I could put both up front if I knew I was just crawling.

[Jeff Jenkins sr]

Imo you need to get the center of gravity low and the weight balanced front to back and side to side and the stability at speed would be greatly increased.