Twin Hammere RTR truly brushless-ready?

[DeathVirus]

I have a spare MMP-4600kv motor and am deciding on putting it on my Twin Hammers RTR. Will the plastic gears hold up? I only plan on running on 2s and keep the stock gearing or maybe a 25t to keep the torque down

[WesleyRoy]

I have run the stock plastic gears just for a short time with a 3100kv motor. Till one of my gears where eaten up. I switched to the kit version steel gears and to 32p spur and pinion and now it runs even smoother and more quiet.

[WesleyRoy]

Oh i drove on dirt and rock/gravel. The gravel seemed to came in the gearbox.

[SkiSteve]

Just seal the space next to the motor to stop dirt getting in and it will be fine. I've been running mine 3100 roc412 on 3s no issues

[WesleyRoy]

Now i changed to steel gears i dont have any more problems. Oh and switched to the metal panel instead of dt body it came with.

[DeathVirus]

Are the diff output drives the same length? Bc one of my dogbones goes past halfway in on the right side and 1/4 of the way in on the left side so it's limiting droop on the right side. If I took away my -3 degree camber that might help but it just seems weird.

I should've checked to see if they were equal length or not when I was taking apart the diff to put the locker in but I forgot to check it out. The new bolts I ordered are standard size so I have 2 metric and 2 standard closing the diff. My mteric driver set is MIP and works really well with it but my hex is craftsman so it's pretty crappy. I have to use needle nose pliers and go down as far as I can and then tighten down with the standard hex. If I had a dremel I'd probably just chop off a little bit of the right drive cup. Right now it's really annoying

I swapped out my motor for a Titan 12T which should be equivalent to a 17T 540 sized motor but for some odd reason it runs FASTER than the stock 15T 540 can. I geared down as low as I could to 20/78 and the ESC heatsink is still getting hot. With the stock motor the ESC heatsink hits 207F running outside in the grass. Just running it inside my house and trying to simulate running outside the heatsink was at 161F. I duno if it's just the heatsink getting hot or if the ESC is getting very hot too but that's the only reason why I swapped over to the Titan 12T. It has more torque and top speed though than the stock motor

[Ninomaniac]

Lol, if the heatsink is hot the ESC's innards can only be hotter.

[DeathVirus]

Originally Posted by Ninomaniac

Lol, if the heatsink is hot the ESC's innards can only be hotter.

I fixed the issue! I swapped out front diff to a locker and it pushed out my outdrive cups to where I had tighten down the droop rods almost all the way down. That somehow fixed my binding issue which caused the Electronics heating up in the first place. I lost a lot of droop and suspension travel but the front locked diff more than made up for it

[Smurf]

i have been running a 10.5 sensored since release. upgrade electronics is all i have done. Stock everything else even shift servo is original.

[Thickone]

Originally Posted by WesleyRoy

I have run the stock plastic gears just for a short time with a 3100kv motor. Till one of my gears where eaten up. I switched to the kit version steel gears and to 32p spur and pinion and now it runs even smoother and more quiet.

What's the part # for the 32 pitch?


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[WesleyRoy]

These are associated gears for the 4*4 shortcourse truck.