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Old 07-20-2009, 08:19 PM   #1
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i was bored one night and moved my rear lockouts and my steering linkage to get some more clearance and remove to skid plate, it was pretty easy, only problem i had was with the right rear lockout needing some filing to get my wheel straight.







the 2 bolts that connect the rear lockouts to the axle have 2 2mm spacers so that the rod ends don't touch the axle housing. gained heaps more clearance now that the skid plates are gone.
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Old 07-21-2009, 07:01 AM   #2
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flip the knuckles around and you can mount the lockout arms to the fornt of the axle using the same geometry that you have already made. it dose block you from mounting your shocks on the tabs for the lower links but it looks like you havent done that.
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Old 07-22-2009, 02:35 PM   #3
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How's running that servo arm that way working for you? Any difference in performance besides clearance?
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Old 07-22-2009, 10:30 PM   #4
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well the arm flexes a bit when you are actually crawling, no loss in torque from what i can tell, it will probably break soon but then i will get an aluminum one and i won't have problem with the flexing.
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Old 07-23-2009, 09:31 AM   #5
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Aluminum servo arms are def. the way to go.. didn't take me long to destroy my plastic one that came with my servo. I've already did away with my rear skid and i'm thinking about getting rid of my front skid also. Your setup seems interesting and i may give it a try. As long as there is no loss in performance, it seems to be a good way to gain a little more clearance.
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Old 07-23-2009, 10:38 AM   #6
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you will me a 45mm long screw for the one side and a 25mm i think for the other side and you will need 6mm worth of spacers to fill the gaps in the c-hubs.
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Old 09-08-2009, 10:56 AM   #7
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looks like a great idea. I'll try it on mine when i get the chance.i have the same problems with hitting obstacles from not having enough clearance. you can also try using different tires. the hot bodies rovers will give you more ground clearance as well, if you want to spend the money.
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Old 09-09-2009, 04:33 PM   #8
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Once you made your mod here for more ground clearance,did you have a problem with the linkage's new position changing your steering throw? I would really like to mod mine the same way but like my steering throw too
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Old 09-09-2009, 05:23 PM   #9
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i still get full steering throw, no problems there. the only thing i noticed is a bit less torque, but that doesn't bother me since i have a 403 ounce per inch servo anyway
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Old 09-11-2009, 09:14 AM   #10
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That's my next upgrade is a stronger steering servo.the one I have is an HPI sf2 it does the job and I can't complain but torque is very niiice to have. I bought my creeper used and the guy that built the kit wasn't the sharpest knife in the drawer if you get my drift. He used a lot of crap...and I mean crap to get the creeper running. But thanks for the thread,its been real informational
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Old 09-11-2009, 10:24 AM   #11
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no problem, im happy i could help.
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Old 04-10-2010, 11:11 PM   #12
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[QUOTE=The_kernel114;1901647]i was bored one night and moved my rear lockouts and my steering linkage to get some more clearance and remove to skid plate, it was pretty easy, only problem i had was with the right rear lockout needing some filing to get my wheel straight.

Try this for the rear... It works so much better. You can order real ones also if you can find them in stock.

Home Brew Fixed Rear Axle...
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Old 04-11-2010, 12:06 AM   #13
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You might want to reconsider that great of an angle for your steering.
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Old 04-11-2010, 02:44 AM   #14
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The spacers go in the knuckle. the c-hub is what holds it to the axle. My steering link was ran the same way for months. You will more than likely break a knuckle with it at that angle, as I did. I upgraded to alloy one's from HR and have had no issues. This is where I'm at now.
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