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Old 11-18-2009, 11:38 AM   #1
Quarry Creeper
 
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Default Venom stage X build....

Hey Guys,

So as I'm in the middle of 3-linking the front on my 1969 Ford Crew Cab and doing some research over on the Pirate Board.... kept passing by the RC Crawling World Championships. Well my curiosity got me and I had to have a look....

So I decided that I would get my boy one for X-Mas and I could justify it as it would be much easier to run then our Nitro stuff! It's been nearly 20 years since I played with electric (RC-10, Ultima & RC10R). Now everything is smaller, more power and longer run times!

I decided to get the boy a Venom Creeper and why not just get one for Dad also? So I ordered two, one red and one green!

Since Dad doesn't have to wait till X-Mas, here is the build....



More stuff....



Great deals on these...




Last edited by HRDROKN; 12-09-2009 at 12:40 PM.
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Old 11-18-2009, 11:44 AM   #2
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I figured since there has been some minor problems reported with parts inventory.... I'll start there.





In the two kits, it looks as though I'm missing one lower shock cap (parts bag wasn't sealed) and that was on my boys red kit.... so plenty of time to get that resolved.

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Old 11-18-2009, 11:52 AM   #3
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Some have reported that the transmissions have been a little tight after assembly. I took some time going over each gear removing any obvious flash or high spots.



Then I decided that I would run this trans in a bit... I applied some fine lap compound to the gears and ran them with my battery drill in both directions.



Then I disassembled and cleaned all the parts.



Trans feels much smoother now... I'm thinking that we will assemble the other kit omitting this step for a comparison.

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Old 11-18-2009, 12:03 PM   #4
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I assembled all the links... sorting out the 12* and 20* rod ends was a bit hard on my eyes!



I'm either going to put together my own stage 2 upgrade or just get the CKRC kit. So this part of the assembly is on hold for a minute. I'm going to run the stock locker up front for now, but the rear axle will be getting the FLM Locker and still waiting on those parts.

Front axle...





Locker actuator... nice little design!



Has anyone shimmed the pinion gear on these.... seems like there is a bit more backlash then I would like?



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Old 11-18-2009, 12:07 PM   #5
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one big tip is to use the regular cap style screws to 'thread' the transmission before using the flush head screws. the small 1.5mm head tends to round out standard allen keys so get a good quality 1.5mm and .050" allen wrench. The standard jobber wrenches will round out before long before you get any screws in. Also, if you are going to use the Locker (front?) get the alloy cases as well ... the plastic diff cases just don't hold up well.
Add a small 3/16" band of 1/2" shrink wrap around the axle shafts CV joint ... it help prevent the pins from walking out over time.
Once you get her built she's fun to drive.
You'll need some 3mm x 30mm and an extra upper link, as well as an Axial chassis brace/tray mount to make your own 'stage 2' kit.

Good luck, have Fun!

Last edited by Rockfrog; 11-18-2009 at 12:13 PM.
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Old 11-18-2009, 12:19 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rockfrog View Post
one big tip is to use the regular cap style screws to 'thread' the transmission before using the flush head screws. the small 1.5mm head tends to round out standard allen keys so get a good quality 1.5mm and .050" allen wrench. The standard jobber wrenches will round out before long before you get any screws in. Also, if you are going to use the Locker (front?) get the alloy cases as well ... the plastic diff cases just don't hold up well.
Add a small 3/16" band of 1/2" shrink wrap around the axle shafts CV joint ... it help prevent the pins from walking out over time.
Once you get her built she's fun to drive.
You'll need some 3mm x 30mm and an extra upper link, as well as an Axial chassis brace/tray mount to make your own 'stage 2' kit.

Good luck, have Fun!
Thanks for the tips!!!

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Old 11-19-2009, 01:54 AM   #7
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Worked on some stage 2 mods today when I started thinking what the heck is a "stage 2", what is the design goal? Is it just a matter of a lower center of gravity? Is the addition of heavier springs and a travel stop due to the new layed back angle of the shocks? Does the stage 2 change the ride height?

:?
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Old 11-19-2009, 01:57 AM   #8
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With that... I still have a bunch more to do, but here is what I have so far. Comments and/or suggestions welcomed.









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Old 11-19-2009, 05:15 AM   #9
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Thats a great idea, I was thinking of fabbing something up just like that.

Last edited by JUSTGOINGSLOW; 11-19-2009 at 05:31 AM.
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Old 11-19-2009, 12:30 PM   #10
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Really good idea. A bit over built and heavy but sick none the less.
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Old 11-19-2009, 02:51 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HRDROKN View Post
Worked on some stage 2 mods today when I started thinking what the heck is a "stage 2", what is the design goal? Is it just a matter of a lower center of gravity? Is the addition of heavier springs and a travel stop due to the new layed back angle of the shocks? Does the stage 2 change the ride height?
:?
The design of the stage 2 kit is to lower the cog and reduce torque twist. It is done by using the 70mm upper links, stiffer springs in the back and
bringing in your lower links. It works but you can make one for alot cheaper. All you need is 70mm upper links some nitro fuel line and stick on lead wheel weights, and some longer screws.


Quote:
Originally Posted by HRDROKN View Post
With that... I still have a bunch more to do, but here is what I have so far. Comments and/or suggestions welcomed.









Nice fab work, but that's alot of weight up top. The part i used for that stage two part was off an axial ax10( I cant find the part number). It was an upper support. You will still be accomplishing the same thing but with alot less weight. Also welcome to the addiction.
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Old 11-19-2009, 05:39 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by firekiddc02 View Post
The design of the stage 2 kit is to lower the cog and reduce torque twist. It is done by using the 70mm upper links, stiffer springs in the back and
bringing in your lower links. It works but you can make one for alot cheaper. All you need is 70mm upper links some nitro fuel line and stick on lead wheel weights, and some longer screws.

Nice fab work, but that's alot of weight up top. The part i used for that stage two part was off an axial ax10( I cant find the part number). It was an upper support. You will still be accomplishing the same thing but with alot less weight. Also welcome to the addiction.

Thanks for the info.... I will put that upper on a diet!

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Old 11-19-2009, 05:42 PM   #13
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I was able to get a bit more work done today... I'm thinking that I will add some more swiss to that upper..







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Old 11-19-2009, 07:28 PM   #14
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I tnink that I will also remove the shaded areas and drill more holes at the dots....



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Old 11-19-2009, 07:48 PM   #15
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come on man, more pics! i did the same thing when i got mine with sorting and writing to avoid any surprises in the thick of it.
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Old 11-20-2009, 09:51 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ah_5500 View Post
come on man, more pics! i did the same thing when i got mine with sorting and writing to avoid any surprises in the thick of it.
That's why I have Photobucket PRO!

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Old 11-20-2009, 06:59 PM   #17
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real nice ideas
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Old 11-20-2009, 08:17 PM   #18
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I like that shock mounting plate. This is what some of out hop up companies need to put out!comon GH i hear this comming in orange
;D
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Old 11-22-2009, 07:12 AM   #19
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Any updates. I also wish that some of the aftermarket companies would start producing some hop-ups for the creeper, like this mount.
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Old 11-22-2009, 09:36 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JUSTGOINGSLOW View Post
Any updates. I also wish that some of the aftermarket companies would start producing some hop-ups for the creeper, like this mount.
I'm working my cycle of night right now, but I will be off next week and I will continue with the build. I want to pull my scale out and weigh the stock battery support and compare it to these to see what the difference is. My mount is out of 6061 and feels pretty light, but I will let the scale be the word on that.

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