|
| LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
01-18-2010, 02:40 PM | #1 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Deltona, FL
Posts: 402
| Would this work for stock CVD's?
Brass tubing. It looks thin but might fit over the CVD and also clear the C-Hub. Think this might work to keep the pins in? Last edited by y2kgtp; 02-10-2010 at 09:59 PM. |
Sponsored Links | |
01-18-2010, 05:17 PM | #2 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 453
|
Dunno, try it and let us know.
|
01-18-2010, 05:29 PM | #3 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Commerce Twp.
Posts: 1,773
| Thats what I was thinking.
|
01-18-2010, 06:02 PM | #4 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Deltona, FL
Posts: 402
|
I guess I can see what else they might have of use, and get some then....
|
01-18-2010, 06:05 PM | #5 |
MODERHATER™ Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Colorado
Posts: 10,939
|
Shrink wrap works just fine for me!
|
01-18-2010, 06:07 PM | #6 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Deltona, FL
Posts: 402
|
This is my motivation why.... |
01-18-2010, 06:25 PM | #7 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Plainfield, IL.
Posts: 1,297
|
I use to use brass sleeves on the shafts of my nitro rustler years ago to keep the shafts from popping off the yokes, so if you can get some that fit nice, sure, it will work.
|
01-18-2010, 06:51 PM | #8 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Duncan, BC, Canada
Posts: 750
|
I used Brass tubing on my Junfac drive shafts (for the same reason) ... used tubing that was 1/32" under sized. I cut it hard on one side so it rolled the edge as it cut (tubing cutter) and then cut the other side slow so there was no deformation. slid and then pressed it on (with the remaining tube length) then rolled the other edge with needle nose pliers in a round about fashion slowly. it works great, I was going to do my axle shafts eventually but just haven't gotten around to going to find the right size tubing. working perfectly and survives road rash better than aluminum.
|
01-22-2010, 03:54 PM | #9 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Deltona, FL
Posts: 402
|
Ordered this today along with some Delrin rod to make some links. I think I have 4 tubes that are 1' long, so should have plenty left over LOL If it fits..... |
01-22-2010, 04:04 PM | #10 |
Newbie Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Mill Creek
Posts: 40
|
That picture looks like my Tuesday afternoon Funny story I ordered parts 2nd day air so I could wheel this weekend. I just bought stock plastic ones again plus extra spares since the aluminum ones still arent available, then today when I got them on and went out to test my driver side front knuckle broke! I was planning to buy the aluminum knuckles when I get the aluminum hubs. Sorry to Hijack the thread, just thought I would let you know your not in the boat alone.
|
01-22-2010, 04:11 PM | #11 | |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Deltona, FL
Posts: 402
| Quote:
| |
01-25-2010, 12:52 PM | #12 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Deltona, FL
Posts: 402
|
Tube is still cold from the UPS truck Might need a drop of CA to hold in place. I just used a tubing cutter, did not even file it down yet. |
01-25-2010, 03:11 PM | #13 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Duncan, BC, Canada
Posts: 750
|
what size did you use? (was it the size listed in the first post? ) have you tried fitting it to the knuckle yet? my only concern would be clearence (but that shouldn't be an issue as the heat shrink should be thicker). |
01-25-2010, 03:27 PM | #14 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Deltona, FL
Posts: 402
|
I just mocked it up as I'm not putting this back together today. It just clears the C-hub. It's from www.mcmaster.com, part number 8859K33 "Problem" is that you have to buy in in a 4 pack of 1' tubes. So I have 4 feet of this stuff. I should just cut what I got into sections for others to use if interested. I only have 2 Creepers, I prob have enough tube to do 18-20 creepers |
01-25-2010, 03:58 PM | #15 | |
Newbie Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: New Orleans
Posts: 42
| Quote:
id buy some off ya if you could cut them down for me?! | |
01-25-2010, 04:18 PM | #16 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Deltona, FL
Posts: 402
| |
01-25-2010, 04:55 PM | #17 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Duncan, BC, Canada
Posts: 750
|
cool, I'm going to try 1/32" smaller and press it on and roll it like I did my Junfacs ... when I get home from work Wednesday I'll post a picture up of what I'm talking about.
|
01-25-2010, 10:59 PM | #18 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Deltona, FL
Posts: 402
|
I am thinking this should work well, as the rolled part sits agaist the bearing.....it can't slide off. |
01-26-2010, 02:34 AM | #19 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: New Zealand
Posts: 183
|
Puting a brass sleeve on is deffo a clever trick. I would do that if the double wall heat shrink that I use fails. I like to see nice metal work and this is good. Yes I have read that cleaning the setscrew threads and running them both is firm is good too, but I like the outer "collar" arrangement. |
01-26-2010, 04:29 AM | #20 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: May 2008 Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 376
|
Great work on the brass!!! I shrink wrapped mine and cleaned & loctited the grub with no issue thus far. I like your solution better, much easier to trust (I am constantly checking mine)....Thanks for the great idea!!
|
| |