02-04-2010, 10:07 PM | #1 |
Newbie Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Herriman
Posts: 3
| My idea of a Creeper :)
Awesome forum, just got finished building my creeper this week. Stats Red Creeper FXR ESC Integy 50S Pro Motor SR3000 RX Hitec 645 w aluminum arm weighted wheels 3s lipo Haven't even take'n her outside yet |
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02-04-2010, 11:33 PM | #2 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: New Zealand
Posts: 183
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That is some incredible artwork on the body shell. I do not have the patience or skill to do that. Once you get it outside you can see what it does on the rocks and decide if you want to sort the suspension to make it crawl relly well. A home done stage 2 is a good idea and some better rubber is always advised. I am yet to get better rubber. I have Axial Lizzards as my "compers" so am no big shot round here. If you have any questions on the Creeper then ask and ye shall recieve info......and lots of it. Nice looker. |
02-04-2010, 11:33 PM | #3 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Central IL
Posts: 282
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Umm, I'm gonna go ahead and say your trans is backwards bro. Or you setup your axles backwards, either way.
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02-04-2010, 11:35 PM | #4 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: New Zealand
Posts: 183
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02-04-2010, 11:47 PM | #5 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Central IL
Posts: 282
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That's interesting. What's the reasoning behind that? Do you just reverse your throttle on the trasmitter?
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02-05-2010, 12:53 AM | #6 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: New Zealand
Posts: 183
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I'm not one to clutter another guys thread but on the motor thing I put mine at the rear after a while to frr up room at the front for the esc and not have batt wires pass by the motor, old FE habit ! Now they way I have the suspension there is no way the motor can be at the front. Rear mount is easy. Set the motor to zero timing, and setup the ESC, mine is a Tamiya TEU-101BK , to run as suits. I have set mine up so that it will go from forward to reverse with one pull on the stick. Then it is a quick push to engage fwd and then push fwd and we are away. Strange but it works for me. I am a "sticker" for some things and a wheel for others. PM me if you want to know more !! Back to topic now, which is a very nice looking Creeper |
02-05-2010, 05:34 AM | #7 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: May 2008 Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 376
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Very nice job on the marble effect!!!
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02-05-2010, 12:28 PM | #8 |
Rock Stacker Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: NM
Posts: 62
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Looks good. You should turn the chassis around so the motor is in front, and it crawls very good stock so don't worry about "stage 2" yet cause you might like it the way it is. Nice paint!
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02-05-2010, 12:36 PM | #9 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: brooklyn
Posts: 161
| Your motor is backwards !!!
Its supposed to be in front !!! ???:?
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02-05-2010, 12:39 PM | #10 | |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Central IL
Posts: 282
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02-05-2010, 03:18 PM | #11 |
Rock Stacker Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: NM
Posts: 62
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02-05-2010, 03:30 PM | #12 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Lunenburg
Posts: 349
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One of the nicest paint jobs I've seen!
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02-05-2010, 04:32 PM | #13 |
Newbie Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Herriman
Posts: 3
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Thanks for all of the compliments.. Um as for the motor thing.. well crap it was unintentional and didn't realize until you guys pointed it out.. I did have to reverse the throttle input on the TX it is causing the drag brake to be backwards meaning in full reverse when i punch fwd throttle it brakes .. u guys think I could just reverse polarity on the motor.. meaning put red on black and black on red? or can I tell the TEKIN FXR to behave backwards? I would rather not go through the pain of pullin the trans if I don't have to.. thanks in advance |
02-05-2010, 06:38 PM | #14 |
Newbie Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Hayden
Posts: 18
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All you need to do is pull the top 2 screws in the battery tray and then the two scres in each side of the chassis flip the whole trans and skid plate around and re-install. You want the motor forward for weight over the front axle. thats the whole point of the centered trans
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02-05-2010, 07:43 PM | #15 | |
Newbie Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Northern Ca.
Posts: 38
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02-05-2010, 11:37 PM | #16 |
Newbie Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Herriman
Posts: 3
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again thanks for the input / I went ahead and switched the trans 180 and now it's motor in the front.. wasn't a big deal.. after all I just spent 4 days building it lol so what was another 8 screws.. So i'm wondering what is the best way to get the lockers to stay engaged? Prob need to read more |
02-06-2010, 03:39 AM | #17 | |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Central IL
Posts: 282
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1) FLM lockers 2) JB weld 3) Washer mod 4) back out the screw a little next to the selector switch, to keep the switch from sliding over I just put it in the locked position, and tightened the heck out of the screw that's on top of the switch. Haven't had any problems of it coming unlocked on me yet. When it does, I'll be JB welding my diffs. | |
02-06-2010, 07:49 AM | #18 |
Newbie Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: New Orleans
Posts: 42
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02-08-2010, 11:10 AM | #19 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: joliet
Posts: 115
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or you could just swap your axles around then your motor will be in the rear its alot easier then flipping the tranny (less screws and hassle) or just put the servo plate the rear and switch the lock out links and steering link
Last edited by liquidkool; 02-08-2010 at 11:12 AM. |
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