Go Back   RCCrawler Forums > RCCrawler Brand Specific Tech > Heritage Crawlers > Venom Creeper
Loading

Notices

Thread: Creeper for Christmas Build Thread

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 12-29-2010, 10:12 AM   #1
Pebble Pounder
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Indianapolis
Posts: 149
Default Creeper for Christmas Build Thread

Hi everybody. I got the creeper kit for Christmas and this is going to be my build thread

There aren't any pictures yet, my 5 year old Kodak decided to stop being able to flash !

I got the creeper kit and the stage II kit from CKRC, but the stage II kit wasn't in the box, so I'm waiting on that. It seems they've had some problems in their packing department, but my kit is being overnighted to me at no charge, so there's no hard feelings there.

So far I have the front and rear axles and all the driveshafts done. I have rmdesignworks pinlox on the cvd's.
Great product, Man. Excellent tight fit and machined perfectly.

I also have the Transmission, chassis side plates and lowerlinks together.

Pro's and con's so far.
Pro: Every "plastic" piece on this kit isn't plastic. They are actually the fiber composite that some kits will use for the more rigid and strong pieces. My axial SCX10's plastic pieces are soft plastic and only SOME pieces are fiber composite. Same goes for my HPI MT2.
This venom kit uses the stronger composite for ALL parts.

Pro: Made well. I can sometimes tell when something is made well just by holding the parts in my hands and looking at them. This is definitely one of those. I'ts hard to explain, but I'm sure some of you know what I mean.

Con: the hardware. it's not too bad of a complaint, but some of the 1.5 mm are actually 1/16 standard. I have both sizes in my toolbox but it's a little pain sometimes when I'm on a roll and have to find the other one.

Con: the bead lock wheels. I'm only familiar with my SCX10's beadlocks, so this "con" might be uninformed. On my SCX, the beads sit down into a definite channel in the wheel and you know they are in there and the ring is very easy to bolt down tight. On the creeper's there is only a slight divet where the bead sits. It makes it very difficult get the ring bolted down good.

That's about it for now. I'll post pictures soon and more info about my build.

Thanks to everybody here who has posted a build thread or tip's and trick's. I've read them all and am totally gratefull for the info before I started building.
nandrewjackson is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Old 12-29-2010, 11:56 AM   #2
Pebble Pounder
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Indianapolis
Posts: 149
Default



I used the factory masking for the windows. I left the front 3 clear. Liquid masking for all the rest. Outlaw black and pearl white. Pearl white should be called sparkly silver.


I had enough wheel weights laying around to do the rear wheels. When my stage II kit gets here the fronts will get done.





I've flipped the steering knuckles front and back. I'm gonna make a BTA for the front. Just waiting on the stageII kit now.

I didn't JB weld the diffs. I used a bigger screw in the hole just to the right of the diff selector switch. I may eventually make a scaler out of this rig, and open diffs might be cool for that.

: evil:"thumb sup"
nandrewjackson is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-29-2010, 12:03 PM   #3
RCC Addict
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Malta, NY
Posts: 1,340
Default

looks good man cant wait to see it on the rocks. keep us updated.
venomcrawlerdud is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-30-2010, 05:48 PM   #4
Pebble Pounder
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Indianapolis
Posts: 149
Default

Update:

Got her all together and running.
CKRC stage II kit
Homemade BTA steering
3800 NiMh
Digital high torque metal gear 1BB servo
Duratrax ESC
White Dot Rovers
RMDW Paradox Pin Lox
Venom 3 channel RxTx


The darn thing needs a BEC to even drive it around the floor. The duratrax ESC has a 1 amp internal, and that servo takes all it can get.
Seriously, IF i do a sharp turn on the carpet, then hit reverse, it stalls. I'm so mad at myself that I didn't see this coming.

I'm impressed by the venom 3ch radio. I've never messed with settings on my cars before and it's nice to turn down the end points for the throttle on the creeper, and turn up the endpoints for the steering. Pretty cool.
nandrewjackson is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-30-2010, 06:05 PM   #5
Newbie
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Knoxville
Posts: 11
Default

how do u adjust the throttle on it?
xxROELKEYxx is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-31-2010, 06:26 AM   #6
Pebble Pounder
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Indianapolis
Posts: 149
Default

Do you have the VR3T radio? It's pretty cool.

Download the user manual (if you donn't have a copy) and check page 2.

"1.2 Function/EPA (End Point Adjustment)"

It gives an example of a steering servo, but if you program the throttle channel it does the same thing, even though it's controlling an ESC instead of a servo.

hope that helps

my radio came with the steering set at 60 and 70 percent on the dual rate. Why, I dunno? I bumped it up to the maximum, 120, and that was too much so I dialed it in at 100.

I set the dual rate one value lower, just in case I hit the dual rate button accidently while driving, it won't noticeably change.

These controllers are on sale on their website right now for like 30 bux! I might get one for my SCX10 to control a winch.
nandrewjackson is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-31-2010, 07:44 AM   #7
Pebble Pounder
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Indianapolis
Posts: 149
Default

here are 2 pics of my BTA setup.

I used one stock upper link, one venom endlink and one traxxas long endlink.

The servo horn is toward the "driver's side" and the link goes toward the "passenger side".

I bend the link a little to clear the "passenger side" shock coil. And I bent the traxxas end (with the help of a bic lighter).

The hub-to-hub link goes under the driveshaft and is connected underneith the bottom tab on the C-hubs. The upper tab on the "passenger side" c-hub has been ground of for link clearance.





I may find that I will get the hub to hub link caught on some stuff when crawling, but it's better than in front of the axle, IMO.
nandrewjackson is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-01-2011, 04:58 AM   #8
Pebble Pounder
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Indianapolis
Posts: 149
Default

Here's a short video of this rig playing around at home

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NChc-WzkXVs
nandrewjackson is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-01-2011, 06:38 AM   #9
Rock Stacker
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Roanoke
Posts: 55
Default

Very nice
myklt8 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-01-2011, 01:25 PM   #10
Newbie
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 4
Default

Great Video! Like the steering servo set up.
Goldfan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-01-2011, 04:45 PM   #11
Pebble Pounder
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Indianapolis
Posts: 149
Default

thanks
nandrewjackson is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-01-2011, 05:54 PM   #12
RCC Addict
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Malta, NY
Posts: 1,340
Default

very nice vid but one thing i would think about doing is RMDW's fix to TT cus i couldnt help but notice all the TT that you had when you where tring to climb up the sillender brick the first time butother than that Nice Video. I like the way you pained the body .
venomcrawlerdud is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-02-2011, 04:26 AM   #13
Pebble Pounder
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Indianapolis
Posts: 149
Default

thanks for the comment on the paint, I am happy with it.

The TT is somewhat minimal. I'm gonna try to tweak it out though.
nandrewjackson is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-03-2011, 11:44 PM   #14
Pebble Pounder
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Indianapolis
Posts: 149
Default

I entered my first comp this past weekend.

I didn't really want to comp, I wanted to just run free on the rocks, but they were gonna close up shop after the comp so I entered.

The best i did was forward progress through 4 gates. With all of my reverses, hitting gate markers, and rollovers, it was pretty tough.

Is it common for NOBODY to finish all ten gates? I thought it was layed out a bit hard, and even the Pro class drivers didn't finish all ten gates.
nandrewjackson is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-04-2011, 04:51 PM   #15
Newbie
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Kamloops b.c Canada
Posts: 33
Default wowsers

that was a hard course LOL..... anyway looks like ur on the right track with yours.... simple paint but looks good
racerb is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-16-2011, 10:59 PM   #16
Pebble Pounder
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Indianapolis
Posts: 149
Default

Here's a couple updated pics after more MOD's.

had to chop off the front of the body to clear the JR servo arm. It's a long throw arm and was getting stuck on the lexan so out came the scissors.


Next is the 2s lipo attached to the rear axle. wow. I was running the pack attached to the top of the tranny. I'll never do that again, this way has waaay more traction.
nandrewjackson is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply




Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 09:02 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO ©2011, Crawlability, Inc.
Copyright 2004-2014 RCCrawler.com