Has anyone cut the mount off the stock shock caps and put a rod end on them. I just did it and it works great, but I was thinking they might be to weak and break. Does anyone have experience with this? Can't wait until someone makes some good shock caps. Hint: Crazyorigin
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Shock Cap Mod
- Thread starter t-roller
- Start date
murderface
Rock Crawler
CO does make those caps theyre like 20 a pair though, i run big bores and theyre practiclly done for you since theyres already an indent on the inside of the cap you just trim off the mount, drill and tap. i'm using 3mm now if they turn out being too weak ill just spend another 13 bucks or so on new caps (i may be able to simply redrill the ones i have) and drill em to 4mm and get some rc4wd alum rod ends
crazyorigin
Sometimes, I make things.
I made some for the xr10 shocks but they ended up making the shock very long and limiting it to get the length down it didn't provide enough travel. I am mainly sticking with the big bore caps as the various lengths they are available in make for some nice shock combinations. The 2660 combined with my caps and an un moded revo end make a nice 4" shock w/ good travel w/ no limiting necessary.
I sell my caps for $20 shipped, I think this is a very fair price, I started out at $30 and decided it was too much and had sold a few pairs already and refunded those people the difference after the price change. I haven't had any complaints, the feedback I have got from my drivers is very good, and I garauntee my caps will be far stronger than any modded stock cap could hope to be. Moded stock caps are also prone to leaking, I have made changes to the stock design to help prevent leaks when installed properly.
I sell my caps for $20 shipped, I think this is a very fair price, I started out at $30 and decided it was too much and had sold a few pairs already and refunded those people the difference after the price change. I haven't had any complaints, the feedback I have got from my drivers is very good, and I garauntee my caps will be far stronger than any modded stock cap could hope to be. Moded stock caps are also prone to leaking, I have made changes to the stock design to help prevent leaks when installed properly.
PipeDreams
RCC Addict
I won't lie I run stock caps modded but I can't wait to try some CO caps on my xr. "thumbsup"
The amount of machining involved in something like that is A LOT! So for 5 bucks each shipped I'd say it's good.
The amount of machining involved in something like that is A LOT! So for 5 bucks each shipped I'd say it's good.
strawb
Quarry Creeper
the CO caps are smooth as butter ..... when people see your shock cap mod .... it makes you look like you know what your doin
unless there's dirt or sand stuck to it...:lmao:
murderface
Rock Crawler
yea using a cutoff wheel on a dremel is more than some can handle i guess and a drill and tap, watch out. the mod took all of 5 mins, looks oem since i used the same rod ends as the other end of the shock. work great inverted (the extra length helps clear the servo) total length is 4-1/8" and is adjustable by trimming the rod end.
I dont forsee any leaking since that part of the cap doesnt see any fluid with the bladders installed and if it did the red loctite i used would prevent leaking even under direct contact with the shock oil.
CO has a great product it just has a slightly unfinished look to it IMO and being as impatient as i am doing it myself in 5 mins was a better option for me than waiting for shipping, plus it only cost me 4-5 dollars total including rod ends, 3mm screws, and the loctite (drill and tap cost about 5 bucks too)
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crazyorigin
Sometimes, I make things.
If I had my caps plated, the priice would double. If you don't like the $20 pricetag I would imagine $40 would be even less acceptable. If you put my caps side by side with a hacked stock cap, I doubt you would prefer the hacked ones. I also have 3x as much material for the threads of the bolt to go thru than a stock moded caps (for big bores, xr10 caps were non threaded for the prototype run). Loctite is not necessary with the pitch of the tap I run.
The XR10 comes with plastic caps, and from $13-16 a PAIR for aluminum ones, my caps for $20 a set of FOUR, you would have saved at least $6 (not including shipping) and required no modifications, also made from much better aluminum, machined to waaaaay better tolerances. You should have probably read my thread for my caps before giving a false price quote, I don't sell them in pairs as there are 4 shocks on a crawler. I can't believe how many people will just remain uninformed about something and then give their "expert" opinion.
I don't however recommend my caps for the xr10 shocks due to them adding a good bit of length, it raises the ride height too much and most chassis don't allow enough adjustability to make up the difference. This is why I haven't done another run, the Big Bores w/ my caps are the hot setup.
The XR10 comes with plastic caps, and from $13-16 a PAIR for aluminum ones, my caps for $20 a set of FOUR, you would have saved at least $6 (not including shipping) and required no modifications, also made from much better aluminum, machined to waaaaay better tolerances. You should have probably read my thread for my caps before giving a false price quote, I don't sell them in pairs as there are 4 shocks on a crawler. I can't believe how many people will just remain uninformed about something and then give their "expert" opinion.
I don't however recommend my caps for the xr10 shocks due to them adding a good bit of length, it raises the ride height too much and most chassis don't allow enough adjustability to make up the difference. This is why I haven't done another run, the Big Bores w/ my caps are the hot setup.
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I probably shouldn't have said anything about CO stuff.:ror: I really wanted to see if other people have modded the stock ones and if they hold up. I agree they are longer but if you use short ends top and bottom they seem to be comparable, but I will measure when I put my new springs on. I hate the stock cap with the rubber insert, so I was looking for a cheap fix until I get big bores. Anyways I need to keep something from the stock kit other than the axle housings 
I hate the stock cap with the rubber insert,
If your talking about the bladder, you need to use them."thumbsup"
crazyorigin
Sometimes, I make things.
Yes, even with the prototype xr10/comnp shock caps I made you still needed the bladder/gasket in the cap or it would leak. I have found the black traxxas bladders/gaskets hold up better than the white'ish Axial ones.
I was not responding negatively to you t-roller, I was referring to the person relaying false information to you about my product. Saying my stuff doesn't look good and costs more than the alternative makes me a little upset considering I hold myself to extremely high standards of machine finishes, and my caps are in fact cheaper than buying stock caps to modify. I make things for NASA and the International Space Station, I am not just some guy with some drill bits, a dremel and a tap set. It isn't the first time someone hasn't bothered to know what they are talking about my products and basically badmouthing them, I like it when people make things themselves, I support it. I have told several people how to modify their stock caps when they expressed to me they can't really afford my caps. I am all for DIY, but I also wanted to offer a good solution to a fairly standard cobb job. I apologize if I offended you in any way t-roller, but I am not sorry to the other person, I hate it when people are lazy and are so called "experts" on something they cant bother to take 2 minets to become informed about.
murderface
Rock Crawler
in no way am i saying modding your own caps is as nice as co caps i mean a coat of paint and they'd blend in or some people like the bling and i was wrong about the price. all i was saying is if you already have big bores modding them similarly is easy and cheap but in the long run its probably comparable to the 9mm mod as opposed to vp plates. i was just offering suggestions for those of us that like to mod our existing parts
i know i didnt punctuate anything there so its a mess lol
i know i didnt punctuate anything there so its a mess lol
turbobladz
Rock Stacker
Any photos of this? im having a hard time picturing this in my head.
thanks"thumbsup"
thanks"thumbsup"
crazyorigin
Sometimes, I make things.
For the xr10/axial comp shocks, you would need the aluminum caps, i doubt the plastic ones would live very long. You would trim the eyelet/hole the shock would mount traditionally to the chassis off flush with the top of the cap. then drill a hole in the cap for the apropriate sized hole, smaller if you tap it, slightly larger if not tapping and run a bolt through it and attach a rod end. Same with the big bore caps. I tried to do a search and nothing popped up which is surprising.
Pictures of my caps can be found via the link in my signature, i am currently out of stock however.
Pictures of my caps can be found via the link in my signature, i am currently out of stock however.
CO you didn't offend me at all. What I meant is I didn't want to get people off on a tangent that was off the topic, which is what happens here all the time. The topic is the stock caps.
The rubber insert is the mounting rubber insert. To clarify I am running a 1/2" o-ring in the cap and they don't leak. I know that the shocks are made for the bladders, but they seem fine without. Again I hate the rubber mount and wanted a rod end on the cap. I was asking if other people have done this mod with the stock caps and if it holds up. The plastic is thin on the cap, and I thought the button head screw might break through the cap in time, but they have held up on the rocks in my front yard. So lets talk about that and not how much time or effort goes into modding big bore caps.
P.S. CO thanks for the info. on your caps for the XR10 comp shocks. I will be PMing you when I finally break down and get big bores "thumbsup"
The rubber insert is the mounting rubber insert. To clarify I am running a 1/2" o-ring in the cap and they don't leak. I know that the shocks are made for the bladders, but they seem fine without. Again I hate the rubber mount and wanted a rod end on the cap. I was asking if other people have done this mod with the stock caps and if it holds up. The plastic is thin on the cap, and I thought the button head screw might break through the cap in time, but they have held up on the rocks in my front yard. So lets talk about that and not how much time or effort goes into modding big bore caps.
P.S. CO thanks for the info. on your caps for the XR10 comp shocks. I will be PMing you when I finally break down and get big bores "thumbsup"
PipeDreams
RCC Addict
I meant the machine time on the CO caps. You said they were to pricey and for the amount of machine work they are cheap!
I should clarify... I run stock big bore shock caps modded. It's easy. Make sure to tap them so it helps seal it. I'm thinking the plastic stock xr caps wouldn't work well. You need some beef there so the bolt head won't pull through. I'd live with the plastic inserts for now till you can grab some big bores.
