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The more weight you add to the drive train the more stress and chance of breakage, however most crawlers of decent quality should hold up to quite a bit of weight. Wha t type of crawler and how much weight is on the wheels?
Weight can get pretty high. When I first started out I added a ton of weight. Tho now I have found it to be a disadvantage in some situations. But like said before a quality crawler shouldbe able to handle the norm weight thrown at it. Keep in mind most stock kits and rtrs come with plastic c's and knuckles. With weight and some binding those are sure to break. Upgrade to alum if that is the situation. As far as breaking an axle housing. There is more at play here than weight. Maybe a nasty fall or some major binding, but even then I see gears failing before a axle housing.
May want to put ur trigger finger on a diet also. Lead cause of breakage = noob with a heavy trigger finger.
I am running 8oz in each front and 4oz in each rear of my honcho. Keeps you stuck to the ground and forces articulation. Downfall is the rig breaks traction trying to pull the weight up a shelf or steep low traction climbs.
Actual weight is hard to quantify...each rig needs a different amount.
The goal is: ~60/40 to 70/30 weight balance (front to rear).
The weight needed can change if you switch from a plastic axle housing to metal, the metal covers some of the weight you may have used in the wheels.
Moving components around also changes the balance as does going from plastic to aluminum wheels.
This is why it is harder to give you a specific answer, not that we are being pricks.
I prefer to get the weight on the axle/knuckle instead of the wheels. Putting weight in the wheels slows them down (rotational inertia) as well as loads up the axle/drivetrain components. This loading can accelerate wear as well as break parts.