• Welcome to RCCrawler Forums.

    It looks like you're enjoying RCCrawler's Forums but haven't created an account yet. Why not take a minute to register for your own free account now? As a member you get free access to all of our forums and posts plus the ability to post your own messages, communicate directly with other members, and much more. Register now!

    Already a member? Login at the top of this page to stop seeing this message.

4PK Setups, Tips, Tricks and Help

Hi harley just had a prob with the r603ff changed over to c1 ok now just getting a green flashing light and that is id match how would i go about doing that.


many thanks for any help mate
 
i bought my 4pl used and the seller said it had been upgraded..how do i know for sure it has..and im not running moa's so does it even matter if i have the upgrade. im just curious if i ever decide to upgrade to something better in the future...radio's are like pc's every couple of years theres something way better with so many more functions...thanks harley"thumbsup"
 
j-bird said:
i bought my 4pl used and the seller said it had been upgraded..how do i know for sure it has..and im not running moa's so does it even matter if i have the upgrade. im just curious if i ever decide to upgrade to something better in the future...radio's are like pc's every couple of years theres something way better with so many more functions...thanks harley"thumbsup"
Click to expand...

You've got the wrong thread ;-) If you watch my video on how to program for MOA and it looks EXACTLY the same on the Dual ESC screen then it's the same. You can also check the 4PL thread and it has a link on the first post on what serial numbers need updating.
 
Harley said:
You've got the wrong thread ;-) If you watch my video on how to program for MOA and it looks EXACTLY the same on the Dual ESC screen then it's the same. You can also check the 4PL thread and it has a link on the first post on what serial numbers need updating.
Click to expand...

Yeah I know I was in the wrong thread just seeing if you was paying attn. Lol... I did check the serial # and it says that a update is needed.. I'll check that video when I get home and see what the screen looks like.. Thanks Harley ... And my fault on the thread... Maybe I was wishing I had a 4pk lol thanks man


J-bird
 
j-bird said:
Yeah I know I was in the wrong thread just seeing if you was paying attn. Lol... I did check the serial # and it says that a update is needed.. I'll check that video when I get home and see what the screen looks like.. Thanks Harley ... And my fault on the thread... Maybe I was wishing I had a 4pk lol thanks man


J-bird
Click to expand...

Watch the video and see if yours says DT/DL on the dial ESC screen. No problem on the thread :lol:
 
I just want to thank Harley for his unbelivable helpful thread here..
This isnt easy for most of us to program from scratch, myself included..

I had to tweak some settings, because my throttle/brake was opposite than in his video, but nothing much.. Ofcourse rev throttle channels, but also had to reassign/swap front/rear dig button.. Now everything works as a dream :)

I run quite alot of throttle expo on mine now.. 80-90% actually, to get max control of slow speed throttle.. What do you guys run?
 
Ola said:
I just want to thank Harley for his unbelivable helpful thread here..
This isnt easy for most of us to program from scratch, myself included..

I had to tweak some settings, because my throttle/brake was opposite than in his video, but nothing much.. Ofcourse rev throttle channels, but also had to reassign/swap front/rear dig button.. Now everything works as a dream :)

I run quite alot of throttle expo on mine now.. 80-90% actually, to get max control of slow speed throttle.. What do you guys run?
Click to expand...

Happy to help.

I personally don't run any Expo, I just prefer the linear movement. Switching to Crawlmaster motors from Holmes really seemed to make my low end smoother than I have ever seen before.
 
Harley said:
Happy to help.

I personally don't run any Expo, I just prefer the linear movement. Switching to Crawlmaster motors from Holmes really seemed to make my low end smoother than I have ever seen before.
Click to expand...

I might go back to 70% again, but none expo is to hard to adjust the real slow action for my taste..
My 45t br00d apocalypse match`d, on FXR`s, are absolutely capable and to do it linear, but i just find it easyer to fine-tune wheelspeed with expo :)

It`s all about preferences i guess "thumbsup"
 
Ola said:
I might go back to 70% again, but none expo is to hard to adjust the real slow action for my taste..
My 45t br00d apocalypse match`d, on FXR`s, are absolutely capable and to do it linear, but i just find it easyer to fine-tune wheelspeed with expo :)

It`s all about preferences i guess "thumbsup"
Click to expand...
I run a curve on my Mamba Max's with 35T brushed motors in a 2.2 Bully. I agree that it helps with the early throttle settings, but when I want wheel speed, it comes in quick.
Glad you like the thread, Harley has done a great job supporting the Futaba radio line."thumbsup""thumbsup"
 
Sort of off-topic, and maybe discussed earlyer..

What batteries are you running in youre 4pk(s) ?

I use the stock nimh`s now, but i`m allready tired of the 1/10 charge rate :lmao:
I would like a similar capasity (or bigger), that can handle atleast 1c charge everytime.. I dont like leaving chargers working over night.

Life? Lipo?

I charge all my batteries with my icharger 206B, or a 6a hyperion charger, i never use the stock wall charger.
 
Harley said:
Set your Timer!

If your club is anything like mine then competition is tight and you don't want to lose track of the clock while you are running.

This is a super easy task but here is a quick step by step:

For quick access, set up your Direct Select menu so you can access the Timer menu in two quick button taps.

First press and HOLD the "DIR" button

Now select one of the positions 1-8 (I chose 1)

Now when on the home screen you can just hit DIR and then button 1 and you are looking at your timer.



Once in your Timer menu:

Set the Type to "UP TIMER"

Set the alarm for 1 min less than your course time limit, this may change from course to course or comp to comp but it is easy to adjust.

To start the timer scroll down to "RST" and press both the + and -, now as soon as you hit the trigger or wheel the timer will start.

"thumbsup"


For more noticable alarm go to the "VIBRA" menu and set the "TIMER-UP" to any value you like, I chose PT5.
Click to expand...

Now this i'm gunna do, Thanks Harley."thumbsup""thumbsup""thumbsup".
 
Small "issue" that I ran across with my 4PKS a few days ago.

I'm attempting to set up 4ws and a winch on a rig of mine and am having issues with channel 4 slaving channel 3 when activated.

I went in and used the 4WS setup option through the screen and set it up according to a tutorial.

I have the 4WS set up on PS2 with the winch on DT3. As far as I can tell, I have no other functions tied to any other switches or any other mixes activated.

When I activate 4WS on its own, it works how it's supposed to activating only channel 3.

When I activate the winch on it's own, it works properly only activating channel 4.

When I activate the winch when the 4WS is activated (or 4WS is activated during winch use), it kicks the rear steering to 100% travel in the direction that the winch activates.

Whats odd is that when the steering is held to full lock by the winch control, the front steering works normally, yet the rear steer channel neutral got shifted to the new position. Rear steer will only add to the new neutral position, yet will not go anywhere less than the new neutral. It will not go anywhere less than 100% travel, yet will sit at 100% and add to it (100%+). Make sense?

Any ideas on what I ended up missing?

Few local guys I showed this to didn't have any ideas.

Marcus
 
I thought (think?) so as well. I initially started with a new, untouched model profile to mess around with. Every mix, unused switch and dial were turned off that wasn't in use.

Marcus
 
i'm trying to set up my super and I'm having a hard time getting it to do what I want.......here is what I would like to set up

front dig=PS1
Rear dig=PS2
front esc mixing=DT3(yes i mix the front not the rear:flipoff:)
rear steering=DT1@50% increments.
is there a way to mix the front and rear servos and still use PS2 for rear dig?
I guess I would have to use the ps3 up on the top??
does anybody even mix front and rear servos on supers or do they just have preset increments?

clear as mud??:oops:
 
Harley said:
I am going to update the Berg setup here in a minute with the new options.

I personally use Simple Green. I clean them off first (I use the Simple Green then too), dry them and make sure no debris is left then I give them a good shot of the simple green again. and LEAVE it on.
Click to expand...

Excellent tip! I used to be a pro bicycle mechanic and one of my top secret brake tips was to wipe the rim faces (where the brake pads touch) with Simple Green. It was like supercharging your brakes' stopping power and. It works awesome! (this was before the common use of disc brakes on bikes but worked especially well with BMX/Freestyle bikes). I'm definitely gonna try this. Thanks! "thumbsup"
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

C
NMRCC 1.9 Trail Class Build
2
Replies
21
Views
1K
Chingon
C
T
WE RC ROCK Rules 2024
Replies
1
Views
2K
cooper_xl
cooper_xl
T
Perfect for me Capra without new transmission
Replies
0
Views
1K
TopperMcFly
T
S
3 position dig switch controllers
Replies
13
Views
4K
spoo76
spoo76
F
Yale Veracitor Forklift 1/14 scale
Replies
9
Views
3K
frizzen
F
Back
Top