My new AX10 build thread

[Josh_Br]

Hello,
I've had an AX-10 for a month or so now. I've done a lot of modifications during that time and I'd like to run through them on here. I started another build thread, but I think it ended up being way too much of me talking and not enough pictures. Personally, I like to see pictures in this sort of thing, and they can tell a lot, without a lot of words. So without any additional chatter from myself, here's what I've done to my rig so far:

Steering:
I spent tons of time messing with the steering setup, trying to get more steering than stock. I'm happy with the results:




And here is a photo that tells more of the setup:




There was a lot that went into getting this increased steering. I'm a little surprised at how involved it was, but I'm really pleased with the results. Here is what it took to go from stock steering to the amount of steering shown in the first photo:
-A high torque servo with greater travel (Savox SC-1256TG).
-A Tx/Rx that has steering travel and end point adjustments (Spektrum DX3C). I wanted the third channel in case I do a front dig some time.
-A longer (and aluminum) servo horn.
-Home made tie rod and drag link. The tie rod gives a little toe-out.
-CVD's
-New c-hubs that use set screws, so the screw heads don't stick out and limit the travel of the knucle arms. They also have added caster.
-Mounting the servo, I had to raise it up about 3/16" with spacers, and set it back a little on the servo plate.
-CC BEC
-Inboarded lower suspension links and moved the shocks in too.

Amazing how one things leads to another and leads to another and......a lesson I should've learned by now! :mrgreen:

 

[West Cork Basher]

Good stuff with the steering...

Sean.

.

 

[Josh_Br]

Good stuff with the steering...

Sean.

.

Thanks man "thumbsup" It makes such a difference driving the thing.

 

[Josh_Br]

Electronics Tray

Here is the tray I made for the electronics. It's a piece from an Erector set.






Also, when I wired up the BEC, I wired it like this:



That's why there are two switches on my rig - one for the ESC and one for the BEC. You can see them in the very first picture at the top of the thread. They're small 10A switches from Radio Shack.

 

[Josh_Br]

Rear Axle:

I used a Vanquish Products servo/battery tray to hold the battery on the rear axle. I added a piece of angle from an Erector set for a little LiPo protection:






It also serves as a mounting point for the rear upper control arms. A loose zip tie keeps the battery wires coming from the ESC in place:




Also, one unseen mod to the rear axle is under drive gears. My theory is that they will give the front a little more time to pull/climb if the rear wheels are spinning a little slower. Such as when climbing a vertical obstacle. With the stock geers, it seems like the rear wheels would just smash the front wheels into steep obstacles. Also, I went with rear under drive instead of front over drive because I plan to add 5.5" tires. I thought that (roughly) stock tires w/ front over drive gears = bigger tires w/ under drive gears...

 

[Josh_Br]

Any thoughts so far? Room for improvement?

 

[West Cork Basher]

Any thoughts so far? Room for improvement?

Looking good so far... "thumbsup"

Think I've mist what shell/body you have ..

Sean
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..

 

[OKJeepin]

How bad do those tires rub the springs when it is at full flex?
What was the reason for the swith to the BEC?

Looks great, what body are you using?

 

[Josh_Br]

Looking goog so far... "thumbsup"

Think I've mist what shell/body you have ..

Sean
.
..

The body that will be going on it is an HPI 1973 Ford Bronco body. It's quite a bit bigger than the stock body. Figuring out the best way to mount it is what got the ball rolling on this whole project....:mrgreen:

 

[West Cork Basher]

The body that will be going on it is an HPI 1973 Ford Bronco body. It's quite a bit bigger than the stock body. Figuring out the best way to mount it is what got the ball rolling on this whole project....:mrgreen:

Here's what I'd do..

Move the shocks inward and the front lower links out..stops the tyres rubbing off the shock springs..

Move you body mounting posts up where you have the chassis braces behind the shocks and move the brace down to where the body mount posts where.... "thumbsup"

Sean
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..

 

[Josh_Br]

How bad do those tires rub the springs when it is at full flex?
What was the reason for the swith to the BEC?

Looks great, what body are you using?

Well, at full flex and full steer they definitely rub, but it doesn't hinder anything really. They just rub and keep on truckin "thumbsup".

As for the BEC, I installed it after reading another guy's build thread, and because a lot of people seem to think it's a really good idea for these crawlers to have one. I also got the cable so I can hook it up to my computer. I set the output at 6v, because that's the max my steering servo is rated for. I believe the stock ESC has a 5.1v BEC.

I like the concept of the BEC - ensuring the servo has steady, strong voltage. Does it make a real difference? I'm not sure. I think it does; the only time my steering gets weak is when the battery is getting low.

Another plus about a BEC - I read that the stock ESC can handle a 2s LiPo battery, and if you use an external BEC you can use a 3s LiPo.

 

[OKJeepin]

...there are two switches on my rig - one for the ESC and one for the BEC. You can see them in the very first picture at the top of the thread. They're small 10A switches from Radio Shack.

.
As for the BEC, I installed it after reading another guy's build thread, and because a lot of people seem to think it's a really good idea for these crawlers to have one. I also got the cable so I can hook it up to my computer. I set the output at 6v, because that's the max my steering servo is rated for. I believe the stock ESC has a 5.1v BEC.

I like the concept of the BEC - ensuring the servo has steady, strong voltage. Does it make a real difference? I'm not sure. I think it does; the only time my steering gets weak is when the battery is getting low.

Another plus about a BEC - I read that the stock ESC can handle a 2s LiPo battery, and if you use an external BEC you can use a 3s LiPo.

I meant why did you put a "switch" on the BEC, I know why you need a BEC, just don't understand why you put a toggle switch on it.

 

[Josh_Br]

Here's what I'd do..

Move the shocks inward and the front lower links out..stops the tyres rubbing off the shock springs..

Move you body mounting posts up where you have the chassis braces behind the shocks and move the brace down to where the body mount posts where.... "thumbsup"

Sean
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..

Sorry man, I got this thread crossed with my other thread.

But it did have the stock body. I've got the Bronco body to put on it now, but was thinking of doing a kind-of scaler frame. Here's a link to what I'm talking about: http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/axial-ax-10-scorpion/363438-project-ax10-scaler-features-dig.html

That's a really good idea you have though, I'm going to give that serious thought - thanks "thumbsup"

 

[Josh_Br]

I meant why did you put a "switch" on the BEC, I know why you need a BEC, just don't understand why you put a toggle switch on it.

My bad, the switch for the BEC is so I don't have to unplug the battery to turn it off. It's wired right into the battery wires, pre-ESC.

 

[Josh_Br]

Skid Plate:

I cut into the stock skid plate to inboard the lower control arms, and save a couple bucks "thumbsup"

 

[West Cork Basher]

That's a really good idea you have though, I'm going to give that serious thought - thanks "thumbsup"

Sorry it's not the best photo ( I'd sheard my output shaft)
But you can see where I've got my chassis brace mounted where the body posts are ment to go..

Sean
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..

 

[West Cork Basher]

Skid Plate:

I cut into the stock skid plate to inboard the lower control arms, and save a couple bucks "thumbsup"

View attachment 185498

another tip..
have you mirrored your tranny?

Sean
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..

 

[Josh_Br]

another tip..
have you mirrored your tranny?

Sean
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..

Not yet, but I've got a dig unit to install, and I'll have to do it then. It's a Hot Racing dig, with three positions (and it was inexpensive :mrgreen. Speaking of the dig unit...... it's 2 cm long. It requires cutting the rear drive shaft 2 cm shorter. I've read this can create binding. I was thinking about drilling new holes (only room for three) in the skid plate and moving the tranny forward 1 cm, then cutting both front and rear driveshafts 1 cm shorter, to split the cutting between the two. What do you think?

Either that, or maybe just extending the rear links....not sure.

 

[Josh_Br]

Sorry it's not the best photo ( I'd sheard my output shaft)
But you can see where I've got my chassis brace mounted where the body posts are ment to go..


Sean
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..

Makes sense, thanks for the pic.

 

[West Cork Basher]

Makes sense, thanks for the pic.

Have you read this..

D.I.Y Mods for AX-10... what have you done...


"thumbsup"

Sean
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..