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House's Generic Ti-Fighter

40.jpg


Ultra light axles and still have steel hollow balls. Plan to go to aluminum or plastic hollow balls?

Nice job turning the rod ends down, that had to be a crappy job...
 
Ultra light axles and still have steel hollow balls. Plan to go to aluminum or plastic hollow balls?

Nice job turning the rod ends down, that had to be a crappy job...

Thanks Dicky, it was a crappy job...
As far as the balls, I don't like plastic ones at all.
The aluminum seem to get sloppy quick, but maybe
they would live longer on a lighter rig. My goal with
this thing was to have a super tough setup that will
live through whatever abuse I was to throw at it.
If I was going for the lightest setup possible I would
have bought the aluminum version instead of titanium...
Do you think that couple grams would help?
Keep coming with the suggestions! "thumbsup"
 
YREKA?!
You must be in the wrong forum, as I believe I am the only Berg fan within a hundred mile radius...
LOL

More progress pics coming soon...

Im a fan of bergs, just like to get my parts from the shops when i need them.

And this is Wade by the way
 
^^^^^^ do you guys even have rc shops there or are you still drivin up here for parts? House truck is looking good cant wait to see it... Also shoot me a txt when you see that sand sports come out with you mainx in it.. I have looked everywhere here and not seen it yet...
 
Nope, no hobby shops here. :(

I know WinCo usually has Sand Sports. Look for the May issue, it should
come out sometime this month I would imagine. I'll let you know when I
get my copy...

Here is the rod end to lower link fit. I like it!

rodend.jpg
 
Thanks Dicky, it was a crappy job...
As far as the balls, I don't like plastic ones at all.
The aluminum seem to get sloppy quick, but maybe
they would live longer on a lighter rig. My goal with
this thing was to have a super tough setup that will
live through whatever abuse I was to throw at it.
If I was going for the lightest setup possible I would
have bought the aluminum version instead of titanium...
Do you think that couple grams would help?
Keep coming with the suggestions! "thumbsup"

I just did the aluminum ball swap on my Viper II proto and lost 1/2 oz. That 1/2 oz was noticeable while practicing Saturday. I had to make a few adjustments for it to the rig and my driving.


Wow, that thing is coming along nicely. I love that chassis Lars came up with!


not sure if you are trying to stir shit or just making a bad joke.

It looks nothing like a RCBro locker.

Not even close to an RCBros locker. It looks like a shorter version of the stock locker made from different material than the heavy stock steel.
 
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LOL, just for the record, I know that expensive equipment does not makeyou a better driver. I have a LONG way to go to be competitive at thehigher level competitions.

Im totally giving you hell Chris. You're one of my favorite "sorta local" guys lol. I just like to tease the people who have eleventybillion dollars and cents into a rig. I have been there tho, maybe not Ti-fighter status, but probably had the most expensive HR axles on the planet lol:lmao:

You just need to calm down, and drive like youre not at a comp. Be confident and KNOW you will do well. If you always have that mentality, you will always do well.


I have been reading a book my brother recommended to me. He works at the Olympic training center in San Diego. One of the athletes wrote it. Its about getting your mind right to compete. The mind is the trickiest part to overcome on competitive stuff. I have seen it time and time again. Relaxed and confident drivers ALWAYS do better than nervous or pissed drivers.


Ive seen you drive, and you have the skill. You need the mental side of it to be square and you will be un-stopable. At AWCC this year the biggest barrier I saw in you is that you doubted yourself. If I doubted I would do well in the sportsman class, I would have not got 2nd. I was VERY confident in my truck and ability, and it did good. Same for the year before at the LCQ. I was also kicking ass all day @ 2010 AWCC until the last course. Got nervous and threw away at least a top 5 finish. Just had to finish that course like everyone else did, and I would have tied for 3rd. But got nervous/pissed and dropped to 25th.

Get yo mind right!


Come north this summer and we have some fun"thumbsup"
 
Thanks guys, I got a little bit more time working on it yesterday since I
was recovering from being sick. Ordered up some Ti today so I can
finish up my steering this week... Hope to have it running soon.
Also have to tear into the front as something is hanging up, and
I think it may be a gear length issue...

I just did the aluminum ball swap on my Viper II proto and lost 1/2 oz. That 1/2 oz was noticeable while practicing Saturday. I had to make a few adjustments for it to the rig and my driving.

A 1/2 oz is considerable. Which balls did you end up using?

You just need to calm down, and drive like youre not at a comp. Be confident and KNOW you will do well. If you always have that mentality, you will always do well.
Ive seen you drive, and you have the skill. You need the mental side of it to be square and you will be un-stopable. At AWCC this year the biggest barrier I saw in you is that you doubted yourself.
Get yo mind right!
Come north this summer and we have some fun"thumbsup"

I will work on that, thanks! "thumbsup"
 
A 1/2 oz is considerable. Which balls did you end up using?

TRA5355X

When you add them all up it really amounts to quite a bit.

Mine were:
Lower links: 8
Upper links: 8
Drag link: 2
Steering link: 2
Revo modded shock end: 4

Total: 24 steel balls replaced with aluminum.

My rig is anything but a featherweight. It dropped me from 5lbs 9.5oz to 5lbs 9oz on the nose.
 
So a quick question to the peanut gallery:
I am planning on making a lexan skid from the front of the motor to the
back of the servo an creating a little shelf for my battery to sit on, but
rely on velcro on the back of the servo. What should I do with the front
of the stock skid? I am afraid if I cut it off too short it will leave a "pocket"
for stuff to want to intrude and get stuck on. should I cut it around 1/4"
and 45 degree it up? Leave it as long as possible without hitting my
battery to fill the gap? Or something else?
 
Anxious to see how you are going to seup the steering linkage. It looks like if you run a link direct from the servo arm to the knuckle arm it will create differential in your steering.
 
I am planning on somewhat of a normal tie rod and drag link setup out of either 3/16" or 1/4" Grade 5 (Ti6Al4V) Ti.
 
This is how I did mine. I have only used velcro to hold my battery and have never had it fall out yet. Never mind the steering it is just temporary. Hope this helps. Ty
IMG_4030.jpg

IMG_4031.jpg

IMG_4033.jpg
 
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