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Lil Willy style...

Opened it up and went through the parts, seems mostly legit. Before I start building the nickel plated chassis and all it's nickel plated counterparts, they look nice and blingy, but not so much "scale". What do you scale gurus say, black that shiz out or roll with the baller bling chassis. :ror:
 
Throw the plated parts into a bucket of salt water and make them look 'used' :mrgreen:
 
The shiny chassis is one of the things iv had a problem with. I say strip the plating and leave 'em outside for a week. You were talking about scaling the thing out, whats more scale the rust on a jeep :ror:
 
Hmm pot aluminum one piece locker and ring gears along with pot aluminum diff gears with steel shafts. Should hold up to reasonable brushed power, but unless upgrades are in the future I'd guess any kind of big power would make short work of these.

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Looks Like Axial R/P will Fit. Whattaya think?

oh ya paint this one flesh/pink/beige and the bigger one purple or dark brown:lmao:
 
Yes I do plan on refinishing the chassis in black.

Looks Like Axial R/P will Fit. Whattaya think?

oh ya paint this one flesh/pink/beige and the bigger one purple or dark brown:lmao:

Maybe a turned down one like the ones in my shaftsmen, stock are too large in diameter.

Can you measure what the transmission weighs for me?

Once it's assembled sure.



Axles are assembled, dog bones! Sweet! I dig the fact that the diff covers are metal and not chrome plated plastic, I will leave this lil bit of bling.

Front axle weight: 142 grams

Rear axle weight: 122 grams

Both weights are as pictured below.

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Leaves on, med setup rear, soft setup front. Servo mount and steering links on as well.

Weights as pictured:

Front: 216 grams

Rear: 162 grams

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Transmission time, same mystery metal motor plate, plastic gears but they are 32 pitch so they should hold up to the same moderate power as the diff gears, and steel gear shafts.

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Looks like the same trans/gears as the r1, if so I had a bronco on the r1 portals and that trans, it held up to 3300kv on 3s just fine
 
If you switch the C's to there opposite side it will give you a bit of castor,You will then need to add a spacer under the tie rod to raise it above the leaf. Works well and gets the tie rod out of the way for looks and the caster isn't bad either. I then had to mount the servo horn pointed up to catch the drag link properly. Eventually I did a CMS mount by using 1/4 delrin sandwiched in the frame where the body posts mount. Just screwed the posts into the delrin and eliminated the nuts. You can then use the servo mount from the axle ,screw it to the delrin and BAM, CMS...
 
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If you switch the C's to there opposite side it will give you a bit of castor,You will then need to add a spacer under the tie rod to raise it above the leaf. Works well and gets the tie rod out of the way for looks and the caster isn't bad either. I then had to mount the servo horn pointed up to catch the drag link properly. Eventually I did a CMS mount by using 1/4 delrin sandwiched in the frame where the body posts mount. Just screwed the posts into the delrin and eliminated the nuts. You can then use the servo mount from the axle ,screw it to the delrin and BAM, CMS...

Good to know thanks. "thumbsup"



Nickle plated chassis mocked up, time to strip and refinish, I'm thinking flat black paint or plasti dip? I also want to paint the polished alum shock bodies, thinking white, if anyone has better ideas let me know. "thumbsup"

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Maybe beadblast or sandpaper that chassis before you paint it. Otherwise it likely wont stick.

Nothing says "slides smoothly over rocks" like plastidip... :ror:
 
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