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Tell me about Spool Lockers

GodSpeed999

Quarry Creeper
Joined
May 22, 2014
Messages
327
Location
Burlington, ON Canada
What are they?

What is their benefit over stock?

Are they used in both front and rear axles? (I have Axial CVD's front and stock straights rear)

Do I need to order additional parts along with them or just the single spool?

Who makes good ones?

Will they work with my Axial HD Beveled OD/UD gears?
 
A spool locker fully locks the diff. Both tires turn the same speed all the time. In a turn, the inside tire turns at a different speed than the outside tire. But with a spool locker, they can't. Great for straight line traction, not so great for tight turns.
 
This if for your G6, right? You don't need them. SCX10s come stock with Axial Heavy Duty steel lockers ... all of them, RTR and Kits. They lock both axles within a housing just the same as the spool units, only they don't look as realistic/cool ...

The only reason(s) you "need" those is to spend money where you don't need it, for parts you rarely ever see (or at least you hope you rarely ever see).

I say stick with stock and put that time/money elsewhere. "thumbsup"

But hey, if you gotta have 'em, then you gotta have 'em! "thumbsup" Don't let MY crappy logic stop you. :ror:
 
In the fullsize 1:1 realm a spool is where both axleshafts are physically locked together. A locker will have racheting mechanisms to allow for axle shafts to rotate at different speeds when coasting, but lock up when torque is applied. Both enhance offroad traction, but the spool is harder on parts, and in some scenarios a locker will allow a tighter turning radius.

In the R/C world, it seems everyone has their own definition of the difference between a "locker" and a "spool". What's important to note is that both are actually spools. There is never a ratcheting mechanism, and the two axles are always locked together.

The stock setup will eventually break with enough abuse. Not exactly easy to do on a 1.9 rig, but not hard to do on a Wraith.

Typically the sinter'ed metal will break the nubs off and rotate inside the plastic differential carrier. This can be prevented by applying a small amount of JB weld between the two during assembly.

The other issue with the stock spool is that it's very sloppy, both the fitment of the metal spool inside the plastic carrier, and the fitment between the axle shafts and the metal spool.

For install-it-once-and-forget-it reliability I recommend the Locked Up FI spool. If you have the patience to properly setup a setscrew style spool then they are just as good. I have several Felsenfest spools that are extremely durable. NOTE:setscrew style spools will not work properly with the Axial Universals in an AR60 housing because the shafts are too short to allow the grubsrew to fully engage the shafts.
 
Yes for the G6. Appreciate your input. Thanks.

So who does "need" them? What rigs don't come with lockers....lots? Why is there a market for spools over the stock Maltese Cross looking ones?

I thought they might offer some benefit over the stock ones.....aside from perhaps tighter tolerances.

I think my stock straight axles in the rear are actually secured with Loctite a little bit off from perfect, despite them feeling really snug going in, and want to wobble. When held firm by the bearings and axle housing, it translates into a binding type feeling/effect. I actually thought they were bent and had Axial send me some replacements under warranty (yet to be installed). Maybe they are bent, I don't know??

Speaking of which, Lockers in general and Loctite, does everyone do this or is it best not to use Loctite in this application? Maybe it's better not to use it than have the axles affixed to the locker not completely perfect???

*Edit note - this post was being typed prior to meatmonkey's response.
 
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What are they?

What is their benefit over stock?

Are they used in both front and rear axles? (I have Axial CVD's front and stock straights rear)

Do I need to order additional parts along with them or just the single spool?

Who makes good ones?

Will they work with my Axial HD Beveled OD/UD gears?

If we're talking Axial, they replace the plastic & pot metal stock locker. It's common for the little tags on the stock metal part to break off or the hole for the axle to wallow out.
If using a steel locker they also add a little weight down nice & low which isn't a bad thing.
Can be used in either axle.
They'll bolt straight in, unless your still using the stock, non HD gear sets, they have the 4 screws plus 2 small metal nibs cast into the ring gear, some spools do not have the holes for these, just grind the nibs off with a dremel. All HD gears sets UD, OD or stock ratio work fine.

Some of your options are;
a clamping style locker such as Vanquish (HotRacing make one also but unsure of quality on that). These can be a little tricky to set-up with the axle centred & are know to sometimes back the grub screws off.
Axial Wraith Locker for SCX10 and AX10 Type Axles - Vanquish Products

a full spool, solid no grub screws, cheaper, simpler. HotRacing is an option here but also Locked Up FI, Holmes Hobbies & SuperShafty.
Locked up RC - FI Spool
Holmes Hobbies LLC
Super Spools - Super Shafty
 
Kick ass. Thanks guys.

I'll need new screws to fasten the ring gear to the spools, right....or will the stock hardware work?

I have the Axial HD Beveled gear sets but I can't recall of they came with screws (and I'm on vacation right now).

I'm liking the idea of the non set screw type.

Thanks again for all the replies.
 
.....

Speaking of which, Lockers in general and Loctite, does everyone do this or is it best not to use Loctite in this application? Maybe it's better not to use it than have the axles affixed to the locker not completely perfect???

*Edit note - this post was being typed prior to meatmonkey's response.

Oh yeah, thanks for the reminder. I remember that post you made about the Loctite. I checked the instructions for my Dingo Kit after that (sorry, was side-tracked by puppy stuff and forgot). It says lube those, not Loctite them. Maybe Axial changed things at some point. I don't have enough experience to say.

Same lack of experience on my part with regards to spools. I'm not familiar with the stock stuff breaking, so I either know how to drive or don't drive hard enough. :ror:

Regardless there's good info posted to pay attention to, for all of us. Thanks guys. "thumbsup"



... waits for stock stuff to break 8)
 
Definitely says Thread Lock in my instructions. I have the pdf here on my iPad. Just double checked.

Regarding the hardware for securing the ring gear to the spool, I have an answer for my own question.

Original instructions call for AXA015 m2x10mm machined screws. Good to go. "thumbsup"
 
I happen to be a big fan of Holmes and am not opposed to spending an additional $8 bucks, but can you tell me why chromoly is better and what "in-phase" means from a manufacturing point of view?

chromoly is a high tensile metal which is stronger than steel and in-phase means the shafts line up in the locker and spin in sync with each other. NOt a huge deal on rc but I'm sure it help with binding.
 
I happen to be a big fan of Holmes and am not opposed to spending an additional $8 bucks, but can you tell me why chromoly is better and what "in-phase" means from a manufacturing point of view?

chromoly is a high tensile metal which is stronger than steel and in-phase means the shafts line up in the locker and spin in sync with each other. NOt a huge deal on rc but I'm sure it help with binding.


http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/chit...t-graphic-universals-vs-cvds.html#post5049655
 
A locker will have racheting mechanisms to allow for axle shafts to rotate at different speeds when coasting, but lock up when torque is applied. Both enhance offroad traction, but the spool is harder on parts, and in some scenarios a locker will allow a tighter turning radius.

you're talking about lunch box lockers. not all lockers are the same as there are selectable lockers (air actuated lockers or electric lockers) if you lock an air or elocker it is acting exactly like a spool until you press the button to unlock it. i just wanted to clear that up for any new guys.
 
Although on my machines I use both Locked Up and Hot Racing lockers/spools, another method to strengthen the stock lockers is to fill all the gaps between the iron cross and plastic housing with JB Kwik. I have done this on my son's Wraith with brushless power and no issues whatsoever so far...and he doesn't exactly have a smooth trigger finger at the age of 7!!!!!
 
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