• Welcome to RCCrawler Forums.

    It looks like you're enjoying RCCrawler's Forums but haven't created an account yet. Why not take a minute to register for your own free account now? As a member you get free access to all of our forums and posts plus the ability to post your own messages, communicate directly with other members, and much more. Register now!

    Already a member? Login at the top of this page to stop seeing this message.

GT3B Hack Question and Answer Thread

Its still cheaper than other radios with even less features and this supports Austin who brought this mod to the RC world as a kit. Also that Abisma CR3P looks more like an iT4 which isnt compatible with the hacked firmware. I don't even think the iT4 has custom firmware yet. Even some/one of the other GT3-C clones may not have compatible firmware from what I've read

Don't get me wrong, The support he's giving is far more than the money he's making on the kits. Just look at the post count, This has to be the most active thread on the forum. I'm just saying that if you can pick up a usb stick on E-bay for four or five bucks that does the same job without the fuss then he could get them in bulk wholesale for less than half that and put them in his kit and sell the kits for ten bucks, Passing the savings on to the customer. The ST-Link sticks are the size of a thumb drive and are compatible with the programming software used to update the Tx.

Also, The CR3P is the same as the GT3B, Look at the receivers, They are the same except that Absima claims theirs are waterproof (Bonus). The layout is like the iT4 but it has the GT3B guts, Plus it only takes four double "A" batteries as opposed to the eight that the GT3B takes. Absima has an iT4 as well, Theirs is called the CR4T and it has a dedicated crawler firmware that can be downloaded from their website. Plus the CR4T doesn't have that annoying engine rev sound when turned on or that stupid pokey antenna sticking up, The CR4T can also be changed to accommodate left handed users too, Seems more like a grown up transmitter and less like a toy (My 2 cents).
 
Last edited:
Don't get me wrong, The support he's giving is far more than the money he's making on the kits. Just look at the post count, This has to be the most active thread on the forum. I'm just saying that if you can pick up a usb stick on E-bay for four or five bucks that does the same job without the fuss then he could get them in bulk wholesale for less than half that and put them in his kit and sell the kits for ten bucks, Passing the savings on to the customer. The ST-Link sticks are the size of a thumb drive and are compatible with the programming software used to update the Tx.

Also, The CR3P is the same as the GT3B, Look at the receivers, They are the same except that Absima claims theirs are waterproof (Bonus). The layout is like the iT4 but it has the GT3B guts, Plus it only takes four double "A" batteries as opposed to the eight that the GT3B takes. Absima has an iT4 as well, Theirs is called the CR4T and it has a dedicated crawler firmware that can be downloaded from their website. Plus the CR4T doesn't have that annoying engine rev sound when turned on or that stupid pokey antenna sticking up, The CR4T can also be changed to accommodate left handed users too, Seems more like a grown up transmitter and less like a toy (My 2 cents).
Can you confirm you have successfully flashed using the st-link V2? I bought one off ebay so I hope it works lol.
 
Can you confirm you have successfully flashed using the st-link V2? I bought one off ebay so I hope it works lol.

Not yet, Still on the slow boat from china, Plus I am working overseas and it'll be another two weeks for it to get to me (Can't get things direct from china where I am). The only thing I can see that one may have to do is select a different programmer from the list in the ST Link utility. If so, Just go to the hardware profile on your PC and it should show you what the programmers name or model is or it may show up when you install the driver (Just make sure to pay attention when installing driver) and select the proper programer in the ST-Link utility and you should be good to go. The pinout is printed on the flash tool, Just match the pins to what is on the discovery linkers pinout (No sweat). The place where most have issues is getting their PC to run the utility software under administrator rights. I have had PC's dump the saved rights during shutdown so I had to run as administrator every time I started my PC. The reason for this is because Win7 and above does not support programs written in Visual Basic (VB) and you have to manually tell it to do so, This is what the Win7 patch does. If you want to do it the hard way, I wrote a tutorial on how to do it manually some years ago.

Here is the right way to register MSCOMM32.OCX in Windows 7 64 Bit. First download MSCOMM32.OCX from the internet and copy it to your Windows SysWOW64 folder then click on "Start" at the bottom of the window that pops up it will say "search files and folders", Type cmd and a window will appear that has an icon with cmd next to it, Right click on it and run as administrator. A user account control window will open then click "Yes" The command prompt box should open and say Administrator on the top left. The cmd window should have c:\Windows\system32> with a blinking cursor, If it has your user name after Windows that's O.K. too. Now type "regsvr32 c:\windows\syswow64\MSCOMM32.OCX" without the quotations and hit enter, It should register successful, Restart your computer and you should be good to go. The reason this happens is that MSCOMM32.OCX is a VB6 runtime and Windows 7 no longer supports VB6 so you have to manually tell it where to look when running programs that were written in VB6. Those who aren't having issues probably installed a program that installed the runtime automatically. I hope this helps!.

I haven't tried it in Win8 yet and with the different versions and updates, Getting to the user rights varies to much to be of much help to anyone, Therefore I would just use the patch and if that doesn't work, Google may be your last resort.
 
Don't get me wrong, The support he's giving is far more than the money he's making on the kits. Just look at the post count, This has to be the most active thread on the forum. I'm just saying that if you can pick up a usb stick on E-bay for four or five bucks that does the same job without the fuss then he could get them in bulk wholesale for less than half that and put them in his kit and sell the kits for ten bucks, Passing the savings on to the customer. The ST-Link sticks are the size of a thumb drive and are compatible with the programming software used to update the Tx.

Also, The CR3P is the same as the GT3B, Look at the receivers, They are the same except that Absima claims theirs are waterproof (Bonus). The layout is like the iT4 but it has the GT3B guts, Plus it only takes four double "A" batteries as opposed to the eight that the GT3B takes. Absima has an iT4 as well, Theirs is called the CR4T and it has a dedicated crawler firmware that can be downloaded from their website. Plus the CR4T doesn't have that annoying engine rev sound when turned on or that stupid pokey antenna sticking up, The CR4T can also be changed to accommodate left handed users too, Seems more like a grown up transmitter and less like a toy (My 2 cents).


I'm sure austin will chime in soon once he is done doing his deed.....

But really? You came here on zero posts claiming this should work even tho you have not done it? Lol. Silly. And just fyi. The rx with the gt3b are waterproof as proven by users. And actually Absima claims they are water resistant not water proof. As for the rest, before you claim that x y and z are the same flysky board...... buy one. Take apart...... hack then come back and say it's so.

And with the other board aren't you just restating what truebrit posted up a few posts down about the v2 board? That has yet to be confirmed if in so has been actually used to hack said radio? With a whooping savings of 5 dollars and couple cables?

Same dog and pony show putting the carriage in front of the horse
 
Last edited:
Well I bought one of the V2 flash units in the hope that it workd. Arrived today. 5 days from Hong Kong. If it doesn't work then I'm only out $5.
 
Well I bought one of the V2 flash units in the hope that it workd. Arrived today. 5 days from Hong Kong. If it doesn't work then I'm only out $5.


Not really the point since like I already said. The v2 has already been posted in another thread with no conformation if it works or not......... and on top of it the claims other stuff will work when it hasn't been done, so theories are just that and belong in their own thread not the one people will be going to for technical support on the gt3b/c where it could be taken as fact when it has yet to be put to that.
 
I agree with you. Should never have been posted without testing first. I bought one anyway as it was only $5.00. However at the time noone had replied to my questions about whether it had been tested yet.
 
Has anyone flashed the GT3B with windows 10 x64 bit?
The last firmware I flashed was the one before the current. I haven't used my RCs or PC in quite a while and just updated to Win10 X64 and didn't think to update the GT3B to the newest firmware while i was on windows 7.
I honestly don't even remember how I did it in the first place its been so long.
I think I used an XP virtual environment?
 
Has anyone had issues with the Flysky GT3 C after been hacked?

Since I hacked it 2 years ago, the GT3 C is very sensitive on the adjustment wheel scroll button, for exemple, when trying to set Trim with the wheel scrool button, it goes from 50 back to zero, our from 90 to 25 our ather number, has anyone had this problem?
 
Last edited:
I have the same issue as above. I clicked this thread cause I was thinking about asking the same thing.

sent from some loaction dat has da interwebs
 
So if the idea here is to turn a cheap radio into an exceptional radio, Why is the update kit more than half the cost of the radio itself?. The STM8 discovery board sold in the hack kit includes a project board that has to be broke off or disconnected from the programmer side which leaves most with something that they are not going to use or throw away. Why not just buy an STM8 32 programmer? for four or five bucks on Ebay?, No usb cables to mess with, No unwanted project board, No fuss!. Also check out the Absima CR3P, Same as GT3B but the layout is a lot better, Seems to have more mounting area for switches too, The only bad part is you have to order one from Europe.

There are many st link programmers that range $4+. I have yet to find one with consistent, reliable quality that costs less than the st manufactured st link I use. I've spent hundreds of dollars on alternative programmers and have always found an issue on at least one of the 10 i ordered. I would just assume to support st for a couple extra dollars. I've sold 500-1000 of these kits....never had one fail"thumbsup"

Plus, I'd have to write new instructions if I was to change programmers. I don't like making documentation...

And the programmer isnt the expensive part of my kit. My markup is."thumbsup"
 
Has anyone had issues with the Flysky GT3 C after been hacked?

Since I hacked it 2 years ago, the GT3 C is very sensitive on the adjustment wheel scroll button, for exemple, when trying to set Trim with the wheel scrool button, it goes from 50 back to zero, our from 90 to 25 our ather number, has anyone had this problem?

Hi losikid

Can you tell me if there is anyway I can fix this issue?
 
I have the same issue as above. I clicked this thread cause I was thinking about asking the same thing.

sent from some loaction dat has da interwebs


I think that I solved my problem, since the wheel scroll dindn´t get crazy today, afther I calibrated the butoms.

TragOul try and calibrate the buttoms and see if you can fix the issue of the wheel botton


This is the issue I was talking about

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QeNYfj0QWZE&feature=youtu.be
 
Last edited:
What method did you use to calibrate to buttons?

sent from some loaction dat has da interwebs
 
What method did you use to calibrate to buttons?

sent from some loaction dat has da interwebs

Turn your driving wheel left keep it like that and press the scroll wheel till it stars blinking, and it will tell you for calibrate your buttons.


Let me now if you got it right.


Had no more problem of the scroll wheel since I did the buttons calibration.
 
Turn your driving wheel left keep it like that and press the scroll wheel till it stars blinking, and it will tell you for calibrate your buttons.


Let me now if you got it right.


Had no more problem of the scroll wheel since I did the buttons calibration.
Mine didnt start blinking. The word key came up and it would display the specific keys name when I pressed or scrolled. I played with it a bit though and it seems better. I guess well see. thx.

sent from some loaction dat has da interwebs
 
Back
Top