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Any experience with sensored Castle motors?

maverick67

Pebble Pounder
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Aug 14, 2016
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I'm thinking about the possibility of putting a BL system in my SCX10 II. I'm pretty sure I want to get the Mamba X ESC because the AUX channel would be so cool.

Though I'm not so sure about the motor. Originally was going to get a HH Puller Pro 3500. But then realized that Castle also makes sensored motors now and was thinking about their 3800kv.

Has anyone had experience with the CC sensored motors? Are they as smooth as everyone says the HH motors are? Also, if I end up choosing HH, would the stubby or standard version be better? The complicating factor is that getting a CC motor/esc combo would allow me to save a bit of cash.
 
No experience with the castle sensored motors, but I wanted to chime in about the mamba x esc.. the aux channel is a really nice feature. I got mine set up for drag brake adjustment and being able to dial up or down is awesome
 
cinnabun, thanks for your comments. Gives me even more confidence to buy the Mamba X. So you find the Mamba X pretty smooth for crawling? What motor have you got paired up with it?
 
I am running a tekin roc412 3100kv with the mamba x. The crawling ability is crazy. The only thing I changed in castle link is punch control set at 100% so the driveline shock isn't as bad, and activated the aux channel for drag brake control.

I was going to order the 2400kv sensored combo, but I can't stand the green color of the castle motors. I paid about $60 more for a combo to suit my color choices. I also wanted more wheel speed than 2400kv on 3s and did not want to run 4s.. 3800kv in a scx10 would be a bit much.
 
Thanks, I think getting the Mamba X is a no brainer then. As for the motor, which Kv puller pro do you think would be good for an SCX10 II? Do you think the 3500kv standard PP on 2S would still be too much? Or should I go for the 2700 or 2200 versions? I'd like to stick with 2S on my SCX if I can.
 
I was going to get the 2700 standard but couldn't find it in stock. Guys I crawl with run the 3500 on 3s. I'd probably go 3500 and stick to 3s
 
The Castle motors are too new and unproven. Get a Tekin ROC412 or a Holmes Hobbies Puller Pro. I have both. I prefer the Tekin. It's not yet offered in waterproof, but that's coming.
 
The Castle motors are too new and unproven. Get a Tekin ROC412 or a Holmes Hobbies Puller Pro. I have both. I prefer the Tekin. It's not yet offered in waterproof, but that's coming.

Can you tell me why you like the Tekin more than the HH?
 
Hi Jato. I've seen you talk about HW in other threads. Have you run one of the newer HW Xerun combos in "full sensored" mode? I'm wondering how it compares to the top-rate Tekin and HH options for crawling. I have a Xerun XR-8 Plus with the 4274 in a Yeti XL, and I find it has excellent low speed control, but I've never run either of those crawler motors to compare it to.
 
Having an issue with my mamba x.. the esc is detecting a radio glitch and giving me the 2 beep 1 long beep warning and cuts in and out. I know the radio isn't the issue it worked fine before the mamba x and also works great with my other trucks.. any idea if a servo on its way out could cause the esc to think the radio is glitching?
 
You do realize the sensored control is entirely in the esc, not the motor.
You do realize you're wrong, right?

Try getting a sensorless motor to run like a sensored motor on a sensored ESC. Not going to happen. Sensorless motors do not have sensor boards inside of them.
 
You do realize you're wrong, right?

Try getting a sensorless motor to run like a sensored motor on a sensored ESC. Not going to happen. Sensorless motors do not have sensor boards inside of them.
So explain your point on castle motors being unproven. The motor just has the sensors... the control comes from the esc...
 
Having an issue with my mamba x.. the esc is detecting a radio glitch and giving me the 2 beep 1 long beep warning and cuts in and out. I know the radio isn't the issue it worked fine before the mamba x and also works great with my other trucks.. any idea if a servo on its way out could cause the esc to think the radio is glitching?

I had noticed one of my cars at work was doing this. It turned out to be the AVC receiver I had in the car was taking a long time to boot up and so the ESC wasn't getting a signal soon enough. My boss found it rather annoying so I think they are working on a fix for it.
 
I had noticed one of my cars at work was doing this. It turned out to be the AVC receiver I had in the car was taking a long time to boot up and so the ESC wasn't getting a signal soon enough. My boss found it rather annoying so I think they are working on a fix for it.



Mine is doing this after the truck is booted and has been running. Seems to start happening when the battery is about halfway through its cycle. Sometimes power cycling the esc will fix it. Sometimes I put the truck away and come back to it later. I am using a 4pls with the non telemetry rx


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So explain your point on castle motors being unproven. The motor just has the sensors... the control comes from the esc...

The motor actually has a lot to do with how smooth the startup is. Yes the ESC knows which coil it needs to apply power to but it has to apply enough power to overcome the cogging torque of the motor. If a motor has too much cogging torque then it will not be as smooth while crawling. This is why JRH often quotes how low of an RPM he can make his motors go.

There are some things that ESC can do to make it smoother, but the initial startup is 90% dependent on the internal construction of the motor.
 
That only applies to the first few cycles- and by that logic motor design would trump commutation logic for startup- and the same issues would be present in sensored or sensorless. The reason I'm mentioning, is the firmware changes on the monster platform have all but eliminated cogging at startup(IME). Unless the crossover method is a more accurate solution to startup than sensored- in which case why the changeover then?
 
Hi Jato. I've seen you talk about HW in other threads. Have you run one of the newer HW Xerun combos in "full sensored" mode? I'm wondering how it compares to the top-rate Tekin and HH options for crawling. I have a Xerun XR-8 Plus with the 4274 in a Yeti XL, and I find it has excellent low speed control, but I've never run either of those crawler motors to compare it to.
Hi. I haven't had a chance to run anything with full sensored mode, but I'd love to try them.
So explain your point on castle motors being unproven. The motor just has the sensors... the control comes from the esc...
See Robert's response.

All new products are unproven in the market. Lots of new products have teething problems. Castle motors may or may not. Nobody knows at this point.

The Holmes and Tekin products have proven themselves over time.

I know I had teething issues with my Mamba Monster X. It turned out to be firmware, but it took a while to get to the bottom of it.

The motor actually has a lot to do with how smooth the startup is. Yes the ESC knows which coil it needs to apply power to but it has to apply enough power to overcome the cogging torque of the motor. If a motor has too much cogging torque then it will not be as smooth while crawling. This is why JRH often quotes how low of an RPM he can make his motors go.

There are some things that ESC can do to make it smoother, but the initial startup is 90% dependent on the internal construction of the motor.
Thanks for explaining that.
 
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