winding a motor

[TEDROCKZ]

A kit would be cool for a tinkerer! I think it would be good for a learning point to just see part of what it takes to build the good stuff like you guys build.

I've been tinkering with a couple of kits from here, outrunner stuff. Easy to make run but sorta hard to make look proffesional...
http://www.gobrushless.com/shop/

 

[JohnRobHolmes]

Without the right iron for the high temp braze/ solder, the kit would just be some nema 35 wire and standard solder :lol:

 

[out4crawlin]

John, yes it is a 540 motor, I used a good check point can.
I believe on 5 volts not posative but its an old fantom dyno if that helps.
I will check the timing later tonight.
I just used regular 60/40 solder.

 

[EddieO]

Fantom Dyno only tests 5v max....unless you stole Troy's personal one, which is modified to test at 7 volts....its the only one in existence though to my knowledge.

Later EddieO

 

[out4crawlin]

Yepp mine is stock, is there any way i could run it off a computer with windows 7?

I am currently using it with a 20 year oldd lap top with Dos. lol

 

[irishgunslinger1]

ok since this thread gets all the motor builders attention.. i have a question... i am using old epic 27t cans and split rotor type armatures..i wound a couple really neat and tight 37 turn motors for a friend and one 55 turn for my scaler..all using the green wire from radioshack.. soldered them really well using 10% silver solder.. the 55t runs just fine on 7.4 will crawl all day long without heating up.. the 37 are on 11.1v and cooked after about 5 minutes run time.. i rewound them with larger wire , recut the comms. and reinstalled them and still cooked them.. could my problem be from using the split rotors instead of solid rotors?

 

[TEDROCKZ]

i am using old epic 27t cans

24 degree fixed timing can? Probably that much timing on that voltage=bad!

 

[out4crawlin]

If there fixed 24 degree timing they are probably drawing way too many amps also.

 

[EddieO]

Probably a combo of a bunch of things actually...

First, the arm type is no very good for a lot of voltage. Stock arms have very little steel. They are shaved down to the bear min really to make RPM...add this with a ton of voltage and the arm gets saturated very quickly......less steel is always less efficient pretty much.....that wasted power ends up as heat.....

Wire size could be an issue......copper loss turns into heat....what size wire are you using?

Balance becomes a bigger and bigger issue as you go lower in winds....

Timing on a stock can 24 degrees.....thats a lot, especially with an arm with so little steel in the first place.....works ok in racing, as we are only 7.4 volts.....11.1+, well....whole nother story.

Lastly, sometimes arms just don't like to be rewound....I've seen people do the same arm 5 times...same wind and everything.....4 work fine, but the 5th is a disaster.....just one of those weird things. Shit, even new arms do this occasionally....

Later EddieO

 

[Robbob]

Yepp mine is stock, is there any way i could run it off a computer with windows 7?

I am currently using it with a 20 year oldd lap top with Dos. lol

Get ahold of Dave at decoSoftware .... hes the one who wrote the Dyno software.

The Dos version is free but if you want the upgraded v2 software you have to buy the licensed disk for it and thats about 85$.

http://www.deccosoftware.com/software/FactsII/Registration.asp

 

[irishgunslinger1]

the fixed timing thing makes perfect sense.. since the scaler motor with a split rotor was installed into an old venom adjustable timing can.....the rest have been fived timing cans...i didnt think of that as being the problem..... thanks...

 

[out4crawlin]

I will never again try to drill balance a arm while holding it in my hand. I don't even know why I tried in the first place.

 

[EddieO]

Yeah, you can't use regular drill bits really......they will pretty much always catch the laminations......

Don't feel bad, it still happens with even with the right drill bit......I've had to take two days off from a swollen hand.....sucks, but it happens....

Later EddieO

 

[out4crawlin]

It was a 5/16 bit, but it worked good, but when I went to drill another hole it just slipped and then I realized I was drilling my hand.... And now I need to clean the bit..

Why kind of bits should be used?

 

[out4crawlin]

Balancing definitely helps a lot.

My overall power, torque, and rpm went up.

 

[JohnRobHolmes]

Are you static balancing, or do you have a dynamic balancer available?

 

[out4crawlin]

I'm just using a prop/ tire balancer that I modified to fit arms on, so I'm static balancing.

 

[crawldogg]

Just rewound a armature with 38 Turns using 24ga wire! It seems to work well,with plenty of torque,and wheel speed. I'll find out later this week,when I take the Wraith out. It's running a 80T spur (48P) and a 18 T pinion. I haven't epoxied the windings yet,just to be sure of how it performs,before coating them. Now I'm on the hunt for more armatures,to wind!

 

[EddieO]

24 awg is really small for a 38t....40t is typically wound with 22 awg on a 5mm blank, can fit 21.5...22.5 fits fairly easy, even non-pattern wound.

I would not expect it to last long in a wraith with such small wire, may wanna use more tame gearing than 18/80....maybe try 18/87.

Later EddieO

 

[crawldogg]

24 awg is really small for a 38t....40t is typically wound with 22 awg on a 5mm blank, can fit 21.5...22.5 fits fairly easy, even non-pattern wound.

I would not expect it to last long in a wraith with such small wire, may wanna use more tame gearing than 18/80....maybe try 18/87.

Later EddieO

Yeah,the 24 ga was all I had on hand. I have a 87 spur coming!