Coming soon .....GMADE GOM-GR1 Rock Buggy

[Brake Weight]

Sweet interior. Howsabout a LxW? I think it'd be more pleasing to the eye without the rear half of the cage.

 

[cmbscx10]

Looks pretty darn good to me. Is the height due to no motor, battery etc or just the pic angle?

Once those panels get trashed I'd be sending a PM to Barndog to whip some of his up.

 

[Jeepiac]

I'm Going to be the negative Nancy/bad guy in this thread and piss everyone off. Are yall ready? Here I go...

This thing is a pile of shit! Underdeveloped, and just not thought out at the least. Gmade spent all their time concentrating on a two speed and dig unit, and forgot about the crawler. Every little repair is going to entail pulling the whole thing apart. Horrible wobble of the spur, Motor plate wont lock into place, Lockers are a cruel joke and here we are in 2017 and Gmade cant design a fawking axle that has anything that resembles steering without spending money and modifying of their parts. Funny how Gmade happens to have so many upgrade parts already for something so new. Makes one think they may already know most of the defective points of the HOS. (hunk of shit)
Why address the flaws of a newly released kit when you can make money off the poor suckers that jumped on the wagon and blew $330 on it.
I know some will beat me up over this post, but in the end I'll get to say I told you so! "thumbsup"
By the way, I'm not anti-Gmade either. 2 Sawbacks in the stable and Previously owned a Sawback 4LS, so I'm familiar with their products and thought this would be a safe bet. I've been schooled on this one.

 

[bilinvic]

Thank you for saving me the bucks Jeepiac. No GOM for me!

 

[Jeepiac]

Thank you for saving me the bucks Jeepiac. No GOM for me!

Thanks, billinvic. It's hard to admit you just threw away $330 and being the guy that's not always rainbows and puppy kisses rubs a few people the wrong way, but I never learned to sugar coat lol. I really don't know weather to finish it and try to move it before the world knows about it or to keep spending money on it in hopes of making into something worth having. Even if I put a set of AR60's under it, the wobbly spur and motor plate will need addressed, which Gmade happens to have upgrades for, but are they any better? That's what worries me. Just because the upgrade parts are aluminum doesn't mean they are better. Plus it's not an enjoyable rig to work on, and I'm not a lazy builder either. I have some rigs that are major time eaters when it comes repair time, but they are one off scratch builds not a factory engineered production unit from a company that does this for a living either. I sure wish someone would offer me an Ascender slider for it :mrgreen:

 

[HumboldtEF]

Every little repair is going to entail pulling the whole thing apart.

Yeah working on the electronics and tranny will be harder and require disassembly, the axles and suspension at least have easy access.

Horrible wobble of the spur, Motor plate wont lock into place, Lockers are a cruel joke and here we are in 2017 and Gmade cant design a fawking axle that has anything that resembles steering without spending money and modifying of their parts.

The spur gear wobble and motor plate issues are unfortunate but I feel with a bit of tinkering a fix can be found. Lockers and lack of steering, another issue lots of other RC's need help in improving, I see nothing new here.

Funny how Gmade happens to have so many upgrade parts already for something so new. Makes one think they may already know most of the defective points of the HOS. (hunk of shit)
Why address the flaws of a newly released kit when you can make money off the poor suckers that jumped on the wagon and blew $330 on it.

Upgrades? are you really mad about upgrades? Almost all companies do them, and to throw all of the upgrades in would be lovely but that's not gonna help the kits price point any. I dont know if we've seen these "defective" points highlighted yet just people looking at parts saying oow that doesn't look strong enough, lets wait and see what parts are truly hunks of shit before calling it.

 

[mikemcE]

I thought you were talking about the tranny in my Wraith. That is a pain to remove. Wait, I’ve never broken the tranny on it or my R1.



Hang up and Drive

 

[Jeepiac]

Yeah working on the electronics and tranny will be harder and require disassembly, the axles and suspension at least have easy access.



The spur gear wobble and motor plate issues are unfortunate but I feel with a bit of tinkering a fix can be found. Lockers and lack of steering, another issue lots of other RC's need help in improving, I see nothing new here.



Upgrades? are you really mad about upgrades? Almost all companies do them, and to throw all of the upgrades in would be lovely but that's not gonna help the kits price point any. I dont know if we've seen these "defective" points highlighted yet just people looking at parts saying oow that doesn't look strong enough, lets wait and see what parts are truly hunks of shit before calling it.

Wobbly spur is unfortunate? It's unacceptable to say the least. Why should I have to tinker with something this basic to make it right?
All R/C need improvement out of the box, but fixing actual factory defects and poor design that the manufacturer is clearly aware of is BS. Upgrading is normally done to improve performance and durability, not to fix something like a motor plate that wont hold the motor in place. The most basic things are needing attention right out of the box. As for parts being strong enough, I have no doubts that the plastic is near indestructible and the transmission gears will probably be surprisingly strong, but the under developed lockers wont take the 3s brushless that a lot of people tend to put in a bigger rig like this. Most people that have been in the hobby or that have been into anything for that matter for an extended period of time can look at something and say that's not going to work. Maybe I'm wrong for voicing my opinion so early, but these stock lockers are good for a 35t on 2s and that's about it. I hope the upgrade lockers will do their job, and change things.
I'm halting this build till other people spend their money on the upgrade parts and thoroughly test them before spend another penny on it.

 

[Dustinf]

I understand all of your gripes with this kit. I hold none of them against you.

I will say, my yeti had a wobbly spur and so did my ascender and twin hammers kits. I was able to fix them luckily.

As for the GOM. I put a 5x11x4mm bearing in place of the 1150 bushing and that actually helped a lot. But mine wasnt overly wobbly to begin with.

I still havnt run it though.. I take forever on building kits as it's my favorite part. Paint alone will take weeks with all the taping and design.

My upgrade parts will be here on Monday, But none of them are performance enhancing parts... because those arnt available yet.

I didnt have the motor mount issue that you had. Mine is locked tightly. Actually, just fitting the plate in without the clamp held it almost too tight to move.

Definitely not arguing, just reporting my experience so far.

I feel for you man, truly.

 

[84yoda]

Thank you for saving me the bucks Jeepiac. No GOM for me!

Me too. Harleys video and now this confirming it....

 

[HumboldtEF]

My Brother brought his Gom over last night and we played around on my little rock pile, it was pretty impressive. I was gonna take a video but it would have been pretty dark.

I had my highly modified Wraith out and the first thing that stuck out was ground clearance

At the belly, the Gom has maybe 3/4"-1" more clearance. So while I was dragging my belly around with my Wraith the Gom was clearing a few rocks I though he should avoid.

It seems like in order to add weight up front most rigs end up heavy due to the balanced starting point so its nice to see how light this thing is while being front biased. The front heavy bias did hurt it a bit on steep descents, you have to throttle it a bit to keep the rear from overtaking the front sometimes.
We weighed it at 7 lbs and some change, my wraith weighs in at 9 lbs

It was climbing with ease even with the tires provided, though the rubber is a bit thin which allows the tread to push in a bit more than is beneficial. The foams are also on the soft side, though they weren't so bad they were rolling over on themselves. overall pretty good on the rocks.

I did however offer up some Proline Boggers mounted on some heavy Gmade wheels (the combo weighs about 2.2 lbs). After we mounted those up the Gom just ate up the rocks, and it may have helped a bit on descents too. The Boggers tread pattern isn't really meant for rocks but the rubber is so soft it just works.

I'm a bit envious.

 

[Jeepiac]

I understand all of your gripes with this kit. I hold none of them against you.

I will say, my yeti had a wobbly spur and so did my ascender and twin hammers kits. I was able to fix them luckily.

As for the GOM. I put a 5x11x4mm bearing in place of the 1150 bushing and that actually helped a lot. But mine wasnt overly wobbly to begin with.

I still havnt run it though.. I take forever on building kits as it's my favorite part. Paint alone will take weeks with all the taping and design.

My upgrade parts will be here on Monday, But none of them are performance enhancing parts... because those arnt available yet.

I didnt have the motor mount issue that you had. Mine is locked tightly. Actually, just fitting the plate in without the clamp held it almost too tight to move.

Definitely not arguing, just reporting my experience so far.

I feel for you man, truly.

Hopefully not all of the kits are as messed up as mine. If I want to be nit-picky almost every rig I have has some type of wobble in the spur, but this one is crazy. I tried the bearing trick, but my problem is stemming from how the clutch plate sets on the shaft. I'm going ahead and buying the upgrade unit in hopes of fixing this issue even though I said I wouldn't :roll:
Thanks for your input, and it sounds like you've made it passed my main gripes without any true issues "thumbsup"

 

[soze]

Looks like there are some QC teething issues. I'm almost done completing my other unfinished builds, so I'll have to build mine and see how mine goes hopefully soon.

 

[HumboldtEF]

Wobbly spur is unfortunate? It's unacceptable to say the least. Why should I have to tinker with something this basic to make it right?
All R/C need improvement out of the box, but fixing actual factory defects and poor design that the manufacturer is clearly aware of is BS. Upgrading is normally done to improve performance and durability, not to fix something like a motor plate that wont hold the motor in place.

You're right, I guess its easy to look at the bright side when I dont own one.

 

[Jeepiac]

You're right, I guess its easy to look at the bright side when I dont own one.

I have been setting here watching the boob tube and me being me, I cant not tinker, so I've been addressing some issues. Filing of the clutch plate where sets against the inner race of the bearing has helped with wobble, but the generally loose fit over the input shaft still allows a little wobble. I think it's going to be a little noisy, but still better than my super shafty transmission with the 32p steal spur "thumbsup". I also did some light filing of the motor strap and the case where they both meet. I can still twist the motor, but it takes a lot of effort. Hoping it holds and I don't have to buy "upgrades" lol

 

[HumboldtEF]

I can confirm the spur gear is indeed noisy, it reminds me of my Tamiya CC01 gearbox.

I just got back from a crawl in the woods and we encountered a weird noise while shifting (to 2nd I think) but we weren't able to recreate it. It reminded me of a a clicky diff or a quick grind of the gears. I dont know if there was too much throttle at the time or what but we're hoping it was a fluke.

 

[OSRC]

CC01 noisy? Mine are all super quiet - might have something going on there.. My Sawback was godawful loud for the first few runs but it has quieted down a bit. now

 

[txbart]

I have been setting here watching the boob tube and me being me, I cant not tinker, so I've been addressing some issues. Filing of the clutch plate where sets against the inner race of the bearing has helped with wobble, but the generally loose fit over the input shaft still allows a little wobble. I think it's going to be a little noisy, but still better than my super shafty transmission with the 32p steal spur "thumbsup". I also did some light filing of the motor strap and the case where they both meet. I can still twist the motor, but it takes a lot of effort. Hoping it holds and I don't have to buy "upgrades" lol

When you have the motor strap on, does it meet the plastic motor plate on both sides?
I had the same issue as you, the motor plate feeling tight but being able to rock it out of mesh by hand with sufficient force. The pot metal plate on mine felt like it was seated properly, but I had gaps between the plastic motor plate & the strap. I didn’t want to cinch down too much for fear of stripping the plastic threads. I finally worked the bolts down so that the strap met the motor plate on both sides, the pot metal plate worked it’s way down & seated properly. Now When seated but not tightened down The motor is tough to move but able to move in & out of mesh, but won’t budge with the strap tightened down.

 

[Jeepiac]

When you have the motor strap on, does it meet the plastic motor plate on both sides?
I had the same issue as you, the motor plate feeling tight but being able to rock it out of mesh by hand with sufficient force. The pot metal plate on mine felt like it was seated properly, but I had gaps between the plastic motor plate & the strap. I didn’t want to cinch down too much for fear of stripping the plastic threads. I finally worked the bolts down so that the strap met the motor plate on both sides, the pot metal plate worked it’s way down & seated properly. Now When seated but not tightened down The motor is tough to move but able to move in & out of mesh, but won’t budge with the strap tightened down.

I tightened the strap all the way down till it met the plastic part of the motor mount. No gaps at all and the motor would still rotate rather easily. I removed a small amount of plastic from from the strap and plate where the hold down bolts go through and then tightened it like I was going to kill it. One thing about it, the plastic will hold threads pretty dang good. Anyway, I think it will hold the power I'm planning on running without any trouble now.

Sent from my RCT6K03W13 using Tapatalk

 

[Dustinf]

I don't remember who said it but Yes, There were aluminum c hubs and stuff on the original Korean option parts site.

And I have seen several pics and videos of rigs with the aluminum axle truss.

No clue where they went..