I'm not familiar with PETT.
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3d printer for rc parts
- Thread starter Desmo
- Start date
k7zpj
RCC Addict
PETT is another variant of PET and is known for being clear. The most common brand name is t-glase by Taulman 3D.
It is similar to PETG but isn't as flexible. It is popular for trinkets and vases but you can actually print light-pipes with it. It also works well for scale light lenses.
This link has all kinds info on it: t-glase Features
mikemcE
I wanna be Dave
Getting the PETG hang
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mikemcE
I wanna be Dave
Boy did that picture suck !
Early morning and low light. Got home today and trimmed and fit it into OPIE , looks good, need to make a couple of straps from aluminum . Then into the paint booth.
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Early morning and low light. Got home today and trimmed and fit it into OPIE , looks good, need to make a couple of straps from aluminum . Then into the paint booth.
Hang up and Drive
Hydrocarbon92
Rock Crawler
That looks great, I want to do a fuel cell like that soon too. I'll be slicing the cap off mine so I can paint it easier. I also want to do a radiator, fire extinguishers, seats, etc lol.
One cool thing I found on thingiverse was a copy of a Wraith wheel, complete 3-pc design. It was kinda poorly done & I spent HOURS perfecting it. The initial PLA version is plenty strong, so the PETG ver should be great. I also want to adapt it so I can put a dualie version on a future project.
I found PETG sticks to kapton tape perfectly, and I got a huge roll of it for $16. I've also never needed a raft for PETG either with kapton nor blue tape, maybe your bed isn't hot enough.
PETG should not be run with ANY fan on, it doesn't warp like PLA. The cracking is from it cooling too much as it's being laid down and not melting into the layer below. You may want to increase your extrusion temp too.
To avoid those strings I increased the retract distance (how much it sucks back into the head) and speed to almost double that of PLA. You could also try a longer "coasting" length (last few MM it lets it ooze out). This is especially true if you increase the feedstock multi for PETG (usually 100-110%) whereas PLA is usually ~90.%
One cool thing I found on thingiverse was a copy of a Wraith wheel, complete 3-pc design. It was kinda poorly done & I spent HOURS perfecting it. The initial PLA version is plenty strong, so the PETG ver should be great. I also want to adapt it so I can put a dualie version on a future project.
I found PETG sticks to kapton tape perfectly, and I got a huge roll of it for $16. I've also never needed a raft for PETG either with kapton nor blue tape, maybe your bed isn't hot enough.
PETG should not be run with ANY fan on, it doesn't warp like PLA. The cracking is from it cooling too much as it's being laid down and not melting into the layer below. You may want to increase your extrusion temp too.
To avoid those strings I increased the retract distance (how much it sucks back into the head) and speed to almost double that of PLA. You could also try a longer "coasting" length (last few MM it lets it ooze out). This is especially true if you increase the feedstock multi for PETG (usually 100-110%) whereas PLA is usually ~90.%
mikemcE
I wanna be Dave
Sticking and warping aren’t any problem, sticks well. I’ve also found 245 /75 and 20% fan work well on PETG, I’ve messed with retraction and speed, not lots of difference though.
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Hydrocarbon92
Rock Crawler
Here's another thingiverse item I'm messing with, I'm in the process of slicing it into individual pieces & panels.
Here's another thingiverse item I'm messing with, I'm in the process of slicing it into individual pieces & panels.
Oh Im jumping on that print ..... you got the thingverse link?
Hydrocarbon92
Rock Crawler
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1372741
The problem is it's over a dozen parts lumped into 1 giant chunk. I'll eventually post a remix with them split, then another with the cab & box split into panels.
The problem is it's over a dozen parts lumped into 1 giant chunk. I'll eventually post a remix with them split, then another with the cab & box split into panels.
generalee7
Rock Crawler
What software are you guys using for sending parts to the printer? I have a Macbook Pro and am curious if the software will work on it. Not much 3D modeling software is compatible with Apple 
Cura converts the solid models (.STL) to GCODE that the printer can read. Does that answer your question?What software are you guys using for sending parts to the printer? I have a Macbook Pro and am curious if the software will work on it. Not much 3D modeling software is compatible with Apple
mikemcE
I wanna be Dave
Cura
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generalee7
Rock Crawler
Got it! Watched some youtube videos on the printer. Looks like I can run Google Sketchup with the STL file extension and be able to design and make my own parts... "thumbsup"
Google Sketchup and TinkerCAD are good starts, but they're not that powerful. The link below will show you free ones for OSX. Also checkout Fusion360. That's powerful and free, but I'm not sure if it's available on OSX.
https://www.shapeways.com/creator/tools
mikemcE
I wanna be Dave
Fusion 360 is the bomb, but a tricky one to learn. Don’t think it’s OSX compatable
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k7zpj
RCC Addict
This link explains how to get the free start up license for the Mac version of Fusion 360: https://knowledge.autodesk.com/supp...-or-educational-licensing-for-Fusion-360.html
Hey guys. Yeggi.com is good search engine for printable stl files. It searched paid and free. Pinshape.com has some good RC related free files, and some pretty cheap paid ones also.
Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
Hydrocarbon92
Rock Crawler
I got into Blender (free) for editing STL's and MakerBot for printing specifically for my printer (QIDI Tech, Replicator clone). Blender isn't exactly intuitive, but there is a TON of vids & info on the net. I'll have to give Fusion 360 a try though. Also been meaning to try Cura & Simplify3D, both are supposed to be great.
mikemcE
I wanna be Dave
Link will also get you a windows copy. I found we can get a license from this link, as long as we are enthusiasts , not manufacturers
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