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3d printer for rc parts

I'm looking, most of anything, to be able to fab my own custom suspension arms and parts for a complete custom rig. The project is a near perfect scale replica of a famous group b rally car so it will probably be put to some abuse and although I prefer the arms and general suspension parts to be the weak link, the first to break parts, I would also like to be able to run the car without breaking it every time out.

How resilient and durable can these 3d printed parts be?
 
I'm looking, most of anything, to be able to fab my own custom suspension arms and parts for a complete custom rig. The project is a near perfect scale replica of a famous group b rally car so it will probably be put to some abuse and although I prefer the arms and general suspension parts to be the weak link, the first to break parts, I would also like to be able to run the car without breaking it every time out.

How resilient and durable can these 3d printed parts be?

With proper design and the right materials you make 3D printed RC car parts that work and hold up to use.

Check out the Open RC Truggy Project:

<iframe src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/5mPUtSrMoLw" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen="" width="560" height="315" frameborder="0"></iframe>
 
The setup I use is 123D Design from Autocad. Free, fairly intuitive, has everything I need. I push the STL to my printer using Repetier software. Uses a version of Cura for slicing.
 
Getting dialed in for both PETG and PLA. No stringing, got heat and speed fine tuned now.
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Hang up and Drive
 
Did you do those or are they available for download? That cooler looks better ten mine. Ha Ha
 
Thanks, I’m getting there. The Coleman cooler and bottles are straight from thingaverse.
I’m running the select plus, got a great deal on it.


Hang up and Drive
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I got the select plus too. Hope you don't mind my picking your brain lol
Maybe what you have figured as good starting point for the sample material it came with. Haven't bought a spool yet until I know what to get
 
Long week of testing. Back to 210@50 I did calibrate the extruder and it was overextruding, but that was my stringing issue, and now all retraction is spot on. Last set of inner fenders turned out crisp, clean and strong. Seat is scaled up 1000%, worked out well.
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Hang up and Drive
 
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What did you adjust to over come the over extending? Multiplier?

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
 
Turned the flow from 100% to 98%. Made a massive difference in stringing. My retraction settings didn’t help, when I dropped it down, I saw the difference immediately.


Hang up and Drive
 
I was going to pick up a MonoPrice after reading this thread, but was just given an old SolidDoodle for free. score! It seems to be the original V1 (they are now up to V4 or V5 I believe) which should help me get my feet wet.
I'll definitely be spending more time on YouTube and forums now lol.
I haven't seen much on YouTube for the V1 so any links or tips on the SolidDoodle are appreciated.

Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk
 
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Long week of testing. Back to 210@50 I did calibrate the extruder and it was overextruding, but that was my stringing issue, and now all retraction is spot on. Last set of inner fenders turned out crisp, clean and strong. Seat is scaled up 1000%, worked out well.
Hang up and Drive

Great info, someday I'll actually set mine up lol,
Have been specifically looking for the inner fender files, where did you find them? What search for?
 
I have a few questions:

1. What is the learning curve with 3d printers?
2. What program should i get for a MAC?
3. I have a TRX-4 and one of the many things I want is a new battery bed, What printer makes a 7inch object?
 
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