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Coming soon .....GMADE GOM-GR1 Rock Buggy

Wait a sec, I just had another thought, If you used the HD lockers which I think you did, you do need to use the Differential gasket (GM60028 ) that goes between the ring gear and the locker (used on the stock parts), I believe leaving this out puts the gears a bit too close together. When I put my lockers in I tried it without the gasket not knowing which to do and it was too tight.
I do have the gaskets installed. I'll try loosening things up. Thanks bro. "thumbsup"
 
A few days ago, I installed a clamping hex because I kept on losing the pin whenever I removed the tire. I noticed that my right rear pin was bent. Didn't think much of it at the time and replaced the pin. Tonight, I had a closer look and found that my right rear drive shaft was bent. Glad i had spare set in my box.

I love this truck. I just wish it had more reliable parts.

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A few days ago, I installed a clamping hex because I kept on losing the pin whenever I removed the tire. I noticed that my right rear pin was bent. Didn't think much of it at the time and replaced the pin. Tonight, I had a closer look and found that my right rear drive shaft was bent. Glad i had spare set in my box.

I love this truck. I just wish it had more reliable parts.

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I’ve joined the bent rear shaft club, left rear for me.




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I would send them an email they sent me new front and rear updates axles because my front pins were coming out.It takes awhile for them to respond but they do.
 
Just sent Gmade and email about the driveshaft.

Prior to bending my rear driveshaft, i was looking at getting a fuel cell for my truck. Almost all of them were a little more than what I would like to spend. So I ended up making one using FLB's picture as a guide. Still need a little more detail.
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Just ordered the bits to try and make my GOM 4 wheel steer. Got the option in the FS-GT5 controller so thought I would give it a try !

Out of interest what pinions are you guys running on brushless.
 
Did you resolved the issue? Mine became almost impossible to move by hand after installing the optional HD Differential Lockers :???:
I loosened the bearing caps and unseated the ring and differential a little bit. This helped quite a bit but still seems a bit too tight compared to rigs I've built in the past. They seem to spin smooth and quiet with wheels/tires on but I can't spin them with only hubs installed. :roll:
 
Does anyone have option part GMA30080, Aluminum Rear Shock Brace? It looks like it sits between the upper shock mounts on the frame, stiffening things a bit. Does this sound right?
 
Does anyone have option part GMA30080, Aluminum Rear Shock Brace? It looks like it sits between the upper shock mounts on the frame, stiffening things a bit. Does this sound right?

Yeah I used the rear shock brace on my build, I noticed without out it there's a fair amount of flex. It replaces the locknuts that the top of the shocks fasten to, and spans between the shock towers/mounts. There space to use 2 but I think thats probably overkill.
 
I loosened the bearing caps and unseated the ring and differential a little bit. This helped quite a bit but still seems a bit too tight compared to rigs I've built in the past. They seem to spin smooth and quiet with wheels/tires on but I can't spin them with only hubs installed. :roll:

Mine span fine before the HD Lockers were installed... That really sucks...
 
Thinking about getting a new motor as the drag brake on my castle 3800 isnt great. Was looking at the 1415 2400...does anyone know if they will fit...diameter is the same as the 1410 but its 69mm instead of 52mm...
 
Thinking about getting a new motor as the drag brake on my castle 3800 isnt great. Was looking at the 1415 2400...does anyone know if they will fit...diameter is the same as the 1410 but its 69mm instead of 52mm...



Well first off what ESC are you running, and can you adjust the drag brake with it?
I often find myself dialing back the drag brake especially with front heavy rigs to keep them happy going down hill. The only times I've been unable to get my drag brake dialed in was due to the ESC's limitations.
So I'd start with the ESC if theres any settings to play with there.

The motor you have now (1410 I assume) is intended for a SCT or buggy, so its likely to shine when bashing but lack a bit in the crawling department. the other motor you suggested is basically the same type of motor so dont count on it being very different. If you are to replace the motor with another Castle go for the slate motors (1406) these are made specifically for crawlers, Holmes Hobbies also makes great brushless motors too though they do note that the long and XL sized cans dont have the low speed control that the standard 540 length can have (which I linked). I run the HH 540 puller pro in my Wraith with a 2 speed and it absolutely rips, the drag brake can be adjusted way higher than is ever needed, great brushless motor.


69MM long sounds about right for a 550 so long as that number includes the motor shaft. The 550 motor I've used is 60mm long not including the motor shaft if that helps.
 
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Got a Mamba X in there. Have aux mode on Rock Racer/ crawler. Its connected to channel 5 on my flysky GT5...so I can dial it in and out. The motor crawls really well and came out of my bomber. It just doesn't have the drag brake when on 100% and creeps a little.

I missed the 1415 can on eBay by a few £s but it was close to a new price so I might just get one. Then my son can run the 3800...just need to get another mamba for him cheap.

I fitted an 18T and tried it out today...didnt need to get out of 1st as it flew and crawled really well.

There are no proper rocks near me locally so I jumped in the old Porsche and blasted 50 miles to a place I hadn't been before. Me and my son had a great time. We took our 2 GOMs, my Bomber, his twin hammers ( 4S and 2650!) and my Yeti. The TH survived fine as did the GOMs...but the bomber chewed another cheapo chinesium horn within about 10mims and the yeti suffered from broken axle syndrome (4S 2650 and 24/56).
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