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2mtech's SCX10ish Power Wagon

2mtech

RCC Addict
Joined
Feb 6, 2016
Messages
1,499
Location
Princeton, North Carolina, USA
So it begins.....

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It will be put on the Cool Racing SCX10 roller detailed elsewhere, along with:

- Hobbywing Quicrun WP 1080 ESC
- DS3218 20KG Servo
- Holmes Hobbies Trailmaster Sport 27t motor
- SR310 Spektrum rx
- Color choice hinted ;-)
- Shocks/tires/foams undecided

I haven't determined if this is the best part of a build, with all the anticipation and ideas of things to do still to be realized, or the worst part, with all the apprehension of potential disaster and frustration and challenges of getting a body mounted and sitting properly and parts and electronics set up and functioning correctly. I think I'll go with Thomas Fuller and pick the former...prospect is often better than possession :)

The body is usual Pro-Line quality and cut out easily last night; interface of body and bed is simple but appears efficient enough. I may or may not use the included Lexan light housings.

I like Exclusive RC stuff...usually...have met Brian...but I can't say I'm thrilled with the interior kit. I have either two driver or two passenger door panels (not sure which yet). Steering wheel will have to go as it looks more base Prelude than old school Mopar. Seat hardly seems scale. For the relatively high price, well...I expected better, but I have myself to blame.

Have to now figure out how to situate everything for clearance and ride height. Then time for some masking!

More to come.
 
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Curious to see how this turns out. Sorry to hear about the Exclusive R/C stuff. Looking at his CAD drawings is what made me decide to build my own.

Looks like you got two driver side door panels. The window cranks go forward on the panels. What does all that stuff even mount to? Does it just glue into the body?
 
Curious to see how this turns out. Sorry to hear about the Exclusive R/C stuff. Looking at his CAD drawings is what made me decide to build my own.

Looks like you got two driver side door panels. The window cranks go forward on the panels. What does all that stuff even mount to? Does it just glue into the body?

Dang, dude, the first thing I thought when I opened this stuff was that I had to ping my buddy in KC and ask him how the heck one is supposed to mount this stuff! ;-)

TBH, I have no idea how to mount the dash or seat. Door panels are straightforward: glue them to the insides of the cab. Thanks for the orientation feedback! I really should've just built my own like you're doing, as it appears I'll have to do some fabricobbling anyway to have something to mount the seat and the dash on (I haven't mastered levitation yet). It's not like they came with any instructions or tips, not that I expected any.

At least you did your research before opting out!
 
I like Exclusive RC stuff...usually...have met Brian...but I can't say I'm thrilled with the interior kit. I have either two driver or two passenger door panels (not sure which yet). Steering wheel will have to go as it looks more base Prelude than old school Mopar. Seat hardly seems scale. For the relatively high price, well...I expected better, but I have myself to blame.

The disappointment seems to be a common experience with Exclusive stuff. RC Nerds or Knight Customs is probably making an interior for the Power Wagon if they haven't already. You'll get much nicer stuff and much better print quality.

I like the way this build is starting out though. Good list of parts.
 
The disappointment seems to be a common experience with Exclusive stuff. RC Nerds or Knight Customs is probably making an interior for the Power Wagon if they haven't already. You'll get much nicer stuff and much better print quality.

I like the way this build is starting out though. Good list of parts.

Yeah, I should have researched more, but it was there and...you know.

Thanks!
 
Dang, dude, the first thing I thought when I opened this stuff was that I had to ping my buddy in KC and ask him how the heck one is supposed to mount this stuff! ;-)

TBH, I have no idea how to mount the dash or seat. Door panels are straightforward: glue them to the insides of the cab. Thanks for the orientation feedback! I really should've just built my own like you're doing, as it appears I'll have to do some fabricobbling anyway to have something to mount the seat and the dash on (I haven't mastered levitation yet). It's not like they came with any instructions or tips, not that I expected any.

At least you did your research before opting out!

It's really easy to get caught up in the hype of a new product. Don't beat yourself up over it. It may work out! Are the dash and seat wide enough to shoe goo to the cab also?

The disappointment seems to be a common experience with Exclusive stuff. RC Nerds or Knight Customs is probably making an interior for the Power Wagon if they haven't already. You'll get much nicer stuff and much better print quality.

I like the way this build is starting out though. Good list of parts.

I do know of at least one manufacturer that will have something available soon, but that's about as far as my NDA will let me speak.
 
It's really easy to get caught up in the hype of a new product. Don't beat yourself up over it. It may work out! Are the dash and seat wide enough to shoe goo to the cab also?

Sadly, no. The seat has at least an inch of space at either side when centered in the cab. The dash is a bit closer, but you know what they say about close. It has two 45° mount tabs attached to the upper corners with one M2 screw, not entirely sure what their intended purpose is.

The beating up will continue when I get home and look at it again...coulda done a lot more with $75.

Ok, through whining now. I'll figure it out, or something else "thumbsup"
 
Suggestion, foam to fill the gaps between the seat and the cab.
I didnt know they made a interior for the PW, cool !
 
You mean like the spray foam in the can? That could be unique! Seriously, that's a good thought...I have plenty of black foam, have to play.



Yeah, well......they say they do...



Didn't think about spray foam, just a sheet of foam as thick as the seat cut the shape of the sides ( L shape ) shoo goo the 2 pieces then shoo goo to the inside Presto-changeO !
 
Solution for the door run a blade underneath the arm rest and widow crank and door lever , and move them opposite side of the other door(if you get what im trying to explain)
 
Just a suggestion, why not just return it rather than fix it? His policy states that if it's new he'll accept for store credit or refund.
 
Just a suggestion, why not just return it rather than fix it? His policy states that if it's new he'll accept for store credit or refund.

You know, you make a good point and are correct. No point trying to make something work that clearly doesn't.

Sent from my SM-G930R4 using Tapatalk
 
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Got the body trimmed and assembled for mock up.

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It'll work, but I'm going to need to get some shorter, softer springs. The body will need to mount a little higher than it is now and it's going to be flying a little too high.

Looks like it's going to be a battery forward, radio box/ESC rear setup with the low bed/cab connection point. Fine with me, I like the weight forward approach anyway.

Picked up a Holmes Hobbies Trailmaster Sport 27t can motor, there's another sticker for my radio case.

Full interior would have been a beotch considering where the transmission wound up...may work around it with a waist-up special.

41707831552_067e81aa8e_b.jpg


Love the looks of this body even more mounted up!
 
Made it out to the paint shop today. Found out the hard way when the light housings are cut out of the Lexan they have to be cut flush with the base material to accept the "glass" lenses, while the lenses get cut all the way up to the indentation. Oops. At least I got the second one right.

I finally found the way to get window masks applied almost perfectly without a lot of replacement, frustration and profanity. Don't try to get them perfect. I lined them up once, laid them down and burnished them. Probably the best I've ever had masks come out. Not perfect, but they weren't going to be perfect anyway, right?

41790071271_a8cd6dd5f1_b.jpg


Here's the final result with the overspray shield still on:

41748402732_12b1e1baef_b.jpg


j/k. Here it really is...

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I'm fairly happy with it...won't know for sure until the overspray shield comes off, but I think it looks pretty good. I was going to experiment and try reusing the window masks to paint the stripping on the outside but that was a fool's errand. Instead I'm going to try trimming the overspray shield as masking and see how that works out :roll:

I considered mounting a spare tire per factory, but that was no bueno. Even a diminutive 90mm 1.55 tire doesn't have enough space to clear the passenger door. I suppose one could recess the right rear fender ala Ford F-100 if they were hell bent on a spare, but no.

41748402522_21171196c2_b.jpg


The bed's not mounted back to the cab so it looks a bit droopy.

Time for weather stripping, lights and decals, then on to some fun body accessories ;-)
 
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What'd you go with? Tamiya PS-15? I'm using PS-15 for my HoBao DC1

EDIT: Nevermind, I see you're using Duratrax paint. I'm using Duratrax Black as my backer.
 
Felt weird painting it "backwards"...light color then dark color, but I was backing the silver with black anyway so it made sense.

Really liking Duratrax paint now...works best for me and a big can too!
 
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