Yup found that today, turned it down in half and much smoother without loosing speed.
Even set the bios to give me an Autotune PID on the screen. "thumbsup"
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3d printer for rc parts
- Thread starter Desmo
- Start date
Yup found that today, turned it down in half and much smoother without loosing speed.
Even set the bios to give me an Autotune PID on the screen. "thumbsup"
JSterrett
Rock Crawler
A couple more parts designed and printed. Using my Redcat RS10 as a guinea pig while I learn, lol.
New beadlock rings, and a new link mount for the axle so I could flip the links around and get rid of the "batwing" mount...
Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
New beadlock rings, and a new link mount for the axle so I could flip the links around and get rid of the "batwing" mount...
Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
Ditchrat
RCC Addict
My prints just went to shyte. All was good until I updated to cura 3.3.1. Even with it importing my settings, prints started look like they where printing using larger layer heights and the layer where not adhering to each other.
I check everything that against what I had written down and they where all the same. After being pissed for two days I upped the temp by 20 degrees to 220 and prints are back to where they were.
Anyone else have a cura issue with the upgrade?
I check everything that against what I had written down and they where all the same. After being pissed for two days I upped the temp by 20 degrees to 220 and prints are back to where they were.
Anyone else have a cura issue with the upgrade?
I'm having an issue keeping my bed level. It will level fine in the LR & RF but the RR & LF I can back the screws all the way off and it still won't put any drag on the noozle. The Z rod is parallel with the bed. Had this issue once before and I took the heat bed off and put a straight edge on the bottom plate and it was not straight. Pulled the corners up till it was flat and all was well for a little while. Didn't take it apart but I'm almost sure that is what is wrong again.
I'm thinking I should make some stiffeners for it or get a different plate. Is this a common problem with PowerSpec Duplicator i3 Plus (Wanhao Duplicator i3d Plus)?
I'm thinking I should make some stiffeners for it or get a different plate. Is this a common problem with PowerSpec Duplicator i3 Plus (Wanhao Duplicator i3d Plus)?
mikemcE
I wanna be Dave
You need to get a new aluminum or composite bed plate. The stock stamped one warps. Mine is almost useless, I’m way down to a small adj in one corner. I’m planning a bearing and bed upgrade when I can FIND the bed in the USA, most are not here, shipping is sketchy now from HK
Hang up and Drive
Hang up and Drive
I found this one on Amazon https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07B251KBS/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A13LEXACEUFXQ2&psc=1 the description say they have the plates for other printers too.
I'm going to order it and see what it looks like. Was $27.99 Prime
k7zpj
RCC Addict
Get the Golf Coast Robotics Y-Carriage Plate and a set of Mitsumi lmu8 bearings you will be all set.
I started having those same problems after I put the glass bed on mine. Narrowed it down to exactly that, too tight on the springs and it pulled corners up, too loose and bed shaked.
Got the same brand just a different plate, havent put it on yet but def much stronger.
Did you import the profile from your older Cura? I had problems using the newer Cura's for a while, I always resorted back to 15.04 as my safe versions.
I did switch last night to the most current (3.3.2 I think it was) and imported my profile I know works good. I did some tweaking on the newer settings and printed a few parts with good success.
Could also try a temp gun on your hotend, see if its telling the machine the correct temp or try doing some PID tuning.
I'm not sure you can set the fan speed with your slicer on the mpsm. I haven't had any luck trying with cura anyways but the fan slider in repetier does work. Just remember when trying to mess with the fan, it's not a parts cooler but a hotend cooler. Adjusting the parts cooler setting won't do anything on this little guy.
Ditchrat
RCC Addict
Sadly No I didn't. It had the printers name and the material I entered correct. I really didn't have custom profiles. I had it working really well on the recommend.
I will need to look into the temperature of the nozzle. After some adjustments I got back to where I was by adjusting the temps up to 220. I then started having stringing issue when I went to multiple objects at once.
Bumped the temp down some and had the same crap issues with bad layer adhesion. Messed with temps, cost, extraction and finally quit.
Thinking it was maybe a material thing I went to change filament and noticed a lack of resistance.
Adjusted the feed tension, and I think I am back in business. Or at least fixed what may have been under extrusion. Which makes sense that I had to run it hotter to get the same volume of filament through the nozzle. (At least I am thinking that)
However I am still running 220, going to look into your suggestion after a couple more test prints.
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mikemcE
I wanna be Dave
I learned to back up my config. I’ve always done custom, Now with all set, I change temp for different filament automatically by setting proper profile. Temp and feed are critical, calibrate estep and due PID autotune.
I print PLA at 205, PETG at 235.
So 220 isn’t all out of line.
Hang up and Drive
I print PLA at 205, PETG at 235.
So 220 isn’t all out of line.
Hang up and Drive
Before you do an autotune make sure you write down the current or factory settings. Before running autotune on my mpsm my hotend would +- 5° and bed would +-2°. Now my hotend swings +10° -5° of setpoint. Guess who didn't keep track of the factory settings.... Bed temps still off by about 2° either way but I can deal with that for the moment.
mikemcE
I wanna be Dave
The autotune if correct should stop that swing. Mine has 3 settings depending on temperature I want to use. When doing the autotune do it 8 cycles or so.
There are two different autotune commands, one for hot end, another different for the bed. You need both
Hang up and Drive
There are two different autotune commands, one for hot end, another different for the bed. You need both
Hang up and Drive
Hmm...I wonder if something like this is available for the Monoprice Select Mini. Sometimes I think my bed isn't flat. I'm not going to glass.
I ran autotune for both at the temp I run pla since that's the only thing I'm playing with atm. Last round I did ran 25 cycles on the hotend and 15 cycles on the bed. Also made sure to M500 after tune was done.
Why not? Just curious.
mikemcE
I wanna be Dave
Fan set at 100% manually before running autotune? it does make a difference.
You just lost all credibility.
Glass is amazing. Little spritz of harispray every few prints and it sticks like a rock untill cold, then it just pops off.
I had to pry most of my prints off of the buildtac on the v2 and broke a few of them. :evil:
Yes, I had seen a guide that said set fan at 80%, tried that and it was swinging +15° -10° of setpoint. Gonna pull my Esteps then do factory reset and try more autotune. Worst case I will end up learning how to manually tune pid settings
mikemcE
I wanna be Dave
It is easy, installing Octoprint or reptier is the tough part.
Hang up and Drive
Hang up and Drive
