• Welcome to RCCrawler Forums.

    It looks like you're enjoying RCCrawler's Forums but haven't created an account yet. Why not take a minute to register for your own free account now? As a member you get free access to all of our forums and posts plus the ability to post your own messages, communicate directly with other members, and much more. Register now!

    Already a member? Login at the top of this page to stop seeing this message.

2mtech's SCX10ish Power Wagon

Felt weird painting it "backwards"...light color then dark color, but I was backing the silver with black anyway so it made sense.

Really liking Duratrax paint now...works best for me and a big can too!

I've only bought Duratrax paint for Black, White, and Gunmetal so far. I've mainly been buying just the Black and White, because of the big can so that I can use them as a backer.

One thing I've noticed.... the fumes are worse with the Duratrax paint vs. Tamiya. Duratrax seems to need more time to off-gas.

The Duratrax fumes that linger on the body days after I've painted (I paint outside on the side of my house where there are no windows) are mostly the reason that my S.O. is pissed about this hobby, so I'll be moving to airbrushing soon in order to paint with water-based paints.
 
I can't say I've noticed that...I paint in the shed out back. I use the hairdryer method between coats, and I've noticed the Duratrax tacks up much faster than Tamiya. A quick (five minute) soak in some warm water and flow is fine. Actually, I brought the body back into the house 15 minutes after painting to strip masking (which is usually enough to send MY S.O. into a tailspin), and an hour later I couldn't even smell the paint. Maybe it's a California thing...they've made you oversensitized to chemicals ;)

I will say it was an interesting painting experience as the sun was blaring through the shed window, and the metallic silver made it look like the shed was filled with sparkly fairy dust! Hadn't experienced that since the '70's....

I definitely learned for sure this time that removing masking as soon as paint tacks up works far superior to allowing the paint to fully dry as I was previously instructed. I had only one small spot of minor lifting at one of the window masks, and I'm sure that was only because of the three coats of base color and two coats of backing.
 
Thanks! They shot me an RMA no questions asked, mailed it back yesterday. We'll see how the process goes from here.

Hopefully you get your money back so you can spend it in better ways elsewhere! "thumbsup"
 
I played it safe and asked for store credit...I can always spend money at AMain "thumbsup"

Ah so it was AMain standing good for it.

In my searches on eBay I saw AMain offers Exclusive door handles for some Lexan bodies. I'd be embarrassed to sell this myself and I'm absolutely baffled AMain sells this and is willing to put this garbage on their site. This looks like somebody's very first attempt at 3D printing. :shock:

exc-erc400f.jpg
 
Wow...my dog left something that resembled that behind after eating some licorice. Maybe I should've sold it...? Never occurred to me to stick it to the side of a rig :roll:

We just got a 3D printer at work. Trying to get up to speed on Sketchup or get some .stl files to try it out. Couldn't be worse than some of the commercial offerings.
 
Looking good...how'd you make out returning the interior

So it appears this story is not yet over.

I had received an email from AMain customer service telling me if I returned the item in new condition and original packaging I would not be charged a restocking fee, which I did. I also specifically requested store credit both in my original return request email and on the return form.

AMain received the interior today, and promptly refunded my card $59.87...20% less than the $74.99 I paid for the cheesy parts.

I've emailed again requesting an explanation for both points, but this does not bode well for AMain. There are an awful lot of other places I can spend my hundreds of RC dollars annually rather than a retailer who peddles sub-standard merchandise and does not follow up their own statements.

Not to taint my own thread with a rant, but since the question was asked...
 
All right, enough drivel...this is a build thread, dammit.

Almost finished with the body, just one more custom touch to be engineered. Well...maybe a couple.

This isn't the best looking thing on RCC but I think it's my second best so far. I was finally able to do something I've wanted to do to an RC almost since I got into this hobby, and I couldn't think of a better tribute rig to do it on.

My brother had a '46 Chevrolet pickup when he was in high school (this was in 1971 so it was just an old truck then). He had it semi-fixed up, but the thing I remember most was that he had mounted chrome side pipes (common on cruisers then) as vertical exhaust stacks, and they sounded awesome! When he'd pick me up from primary school in that I was the coolest kid in class :)

So I mounted some on this one as he had his:

41140140574_cd05da276c_b.jpg


I used 5/16 aluminum rod I scrounged from work, bent, cut and sooted. Would've looked better contrasted against a darker color body, but I like how they look.

41814438582_980a0d98eb_b.jpg


Haven't decided what to do with the headlights yet...not going to use the cheesy stickers but I've gotten kind of burned out on lights on RC's. Spend a lot of time running LEDs and wiring and connections, and even more time keeping them working, all to almost never use them. Not sure I see the point anymore.

Thank you Pro-Line for having quality sticker sets even if they're not pre cut. I recently had a bad childhood flashback with water slide decals doing a Harley model and would be perfectly fine NEVER messing with them again "thumbsup"
 
Got some more work done on the bed. Forgot how much I like the smell of mahogany ;)

41159782204_9438d090b1_b.jpg


Have to decide if I want to try to use tack or pin heads for simulated carriage bolts or something else, or not take the chance of making it look too fake. This is all new experimentation for me.

Going to get around to working on the mechanical part at some point!
 
Really digging the bed and details you're adding. I need to get back on my build.
 
Finally got to the guts of this endeavor. Battery tray forward relocation done to my satisfaction. Does this look like two hours of fiddlery getting levelness, position and hood clearance right? No...no, it does not. Stoopid OCD.

42064212551_fb35625983_b.jpg
 
Had most of the day since the girl was with her mother, got plenty done.

- Disassembled trans & axles, greased, threadlocked & reassembled. Trans was a bit dry but the diffs were well greased. Everything's silky smooth, I'm impressed

42093690391_0dc4a1254f_b.jpg


- Relocated radio box to the rear. Original battery tray mount doubled as radio box & ESC mount

41193345785_6b74a6f83c_b.jpg


- Installed HH motor, servo and 1080 ESC. Glad they included a 48p/20t pinion. Everything I have is 32p but I really didn't want to replace the nice steel included spur. Had just enough clearance for the diff cover with the roller included aluminum clamped servo horn

42093690251_bc710ef1bd_b.jpg


- Got some Desert Lizard shocks set up as half droop at about 80mm. Have to get them installed and links hooked back up then we'll see how that does at full weight. The included shocks have really stiff 17mm dia springs that'll be hard to find softer replacements for

Almost beginning to look like something!

41193345955_347b5f2f45_b.jpg


Spent the rest of the day sorting out the hardware container into a 30 drawer organizer. Stoopid OCD!
 
Once upon a time Goldilocks decided to set up some Desert Lizard shocks.

She did a full droop with the softest springs and they were too short and way too soft.

Then she did a partial droop with the medium middle springs and they were a good length but too hard.

She went to the soft middle springs, and they were too soft.

So she went back to the medium springs and said screw it, they'll break in and settle.

What do blonde chicks know about shocks anyway?

42160053451_b551bd51c9_b.jpg


42160053381_42921f0846_b.jpg
 
Back
Top