3d printer for rc parts

[Rekreant]

I completely agree. I am no 3d wiz, but I replaced the cr10s glass with borosilicate. Nice and flat. Level the bed and go. My printer prints like you would expect a paper print. Start file, watch 2 lines or skirt. Level as needed then walk away.


That glass is so good that If I print on bare glass I have to wait for it to cool to take abs parts off. allot of time I use glue sticks just so I don't have to wait for bed to cool.

The glass is easy to replace sure, I got a nice textured glass immediately. But the actual printer bed, with the heating elements and all, is not only much more expensive but is also made of malleable metal.

 

[whitrzac]

Cr-10s 300x300 or 500x500 for $$$ more?

I have a monpoprice mini right now, and everything cool is just a little to big to print.

 

[JohnRobHolmes]

I find a 300mm bed to be plenty. I have a 400mm cr10 and never use it. Might be handy for printing bodies, but I don't have the drive for that road right now.

 

[JohnRobHolmes]

If I wanted to print a body, I would do it in panels anyway. Wouldn't try to make it all one big thing.

 

[Ditchrat]

I find a 300mm bed to be plenty. I have a 400mm cr10 and never use it. Might be handy for printing bodies, but I don't have the drive for that road right now.

Same here, but the few times I wanted larger items like big sand ladders, cage top panels and odd parts I was happy I had the work space.


Been printing smaller body panels lately and am working on a 1/10 scale trial truck body design. Again happy to have the larger space, but then again I kind of want a smaller machine to do little things when the other machine is going 40hr prints.

 

[Rekreant]

3rd for the 300mm being more than enough. I rarely am printing parts that use that whole bed, I cant really imagine what ppl are printing on the 500mm beds...

 

[whitrzac]

Measured the area I want to put it, it made the choice really easy. 300x300 it is.

 

[Gramps]

Am I missing something? In Slic3r PE I can cut an object on the Z axis but not the X or Y
If it makes a difference I'm using the Linux version

 

[Gramps]

Am I missing something? In Slic3r PE I can cut an object on the Z axis but not the X or Y
If it makes a difference I'm using the Linux version

Slic3r provides an elementary cutting function. Cutting in Slic3r is possible only with XY plane. Select the object and click on the Cut button in the upper menu. Then enter the Z height [mm], check both boxes to keep the upper and lower part. Then hit Perform cut. Cut your model is handy when you model is too high and you want to cut it into two parts to fit the printable height or the model does not have a flat base and would not stick properly to the print bed. To cut model with different planes rotate the model first and then perform the cut.

 

[whitrzac]

CR-10s is up and running. Found a decent amount of loose screws right out of the box. Dissembled a few things, reassembled with threadlock, just like a RTR....


The mini is going to get a 0.2mm nozzle and dedicated to mini things, lol.

 

[whitrzac]

The test cat did not work, underextruded like crazy for the 1st layer, but made it 3/4 the way through before it broke free. :evil:


The factory glass isn't flat ether, it's bowed downwards in the middle.


And the LCD sucks when comparing to the monoprice mini's full color display, and the menus are not intuitive.


Having the spool mount on the controll box is a dumb idea, and it has to be setup with it on the left exactly how the picture shows





I already have a ton of upgrades in mind, why can't I leave anything stock?

 

[whitrzac]

2nd test print was 22:45:shock:

Need ti try and tune out some zits and get a flat piece of glass, but otherwise ok:mrgreen:

 

[whitrzac]

0.20 nozzle makes some awesome prints, but even a benchy takes 8hrs.:x

0.20 nozzle at 0.1 layer height, Might do a lower height just to see what it can do. :shock:

 

[Ditchrat]

0.20 nozzle makes some awesome prints, but even a benchy takes 8hrs.:x

0.20 nozzle at 0.1 layer height, Might do a lower height just to see what it can do. :shock:

What are you trying to accomplish? It is difficult to share experiences or offer suggestions when we don't know where your are headed, it aslo adds some context to your posts.

 

[whitrzac]

More detail for scale bits, small parts, etc. I have most of the bugs worked out of the mini with a 0.2 nozzle. It's slow, but works great.
Still working on the cr-10
CR-10 had an issue with blobs/zits that I have mostly resolved, but I still have an issue with Z ripple/banding that I haven't figured out yet.

 

[whitrzac]

Need some help on this one....


Done on my monoprice mini, 20mm/s, 0.1 layer, 0.2mm nozzle.

 

[mikemcE]

Filament spool drag ?


Hang up and Drive

 

[JSterrett]

Working on a tilt-mount for a Honcho cage. This is the 2nd version. Not quite as strong as I wanted though...

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[JSterrett]

V3 printing now...

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[JSterrett]

I think I have a winner, lol. Will probably print another one with the settings adjusted for strength and quality, but it seems like it should work pretty well...

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